MANUAL Introduction

The manual is
written in sequence for the beginner. If you are a first time user spend some
time working through it and understanding where and how the information are put
together so that it will be easy to find what you are looking for. If you are
an expert, use this guide to jump to the right chapter. Is has a lot of
information and may be frustrating to find the answers if you don’t know where
to look.

NB! Make sure you
have read the Terms and Conditions on the website www.spitronics.co.za before you
install this ECU. By installing the ECU you automatically agree to these
conditions.

1.TITAN
Introduction

This chapter
discusses the TITAN ECU as a product, how it is designed, and how it operates in general.

2.Safety Precautions

This chapter
discusses the all the safety precaution to the user and the product. Very
important to read!!

3.Requirements

This chapter
discusses the requirements for the ECU to run on the engine and the PC
specifications to communicate with the ECU.

4.Hardware Installation

This chapter
discusses the how to do the wiring and physical installation of the ECU. Be
sure to read the precautions during this faze!!

5.Software Installation

This chapter
discusses the how to install the software and drivers to connect to the ECU.

6.Software Operation and Setup

This chapter
discusses the operation of the tuning software and how to set the parameters up
for each specific engine.

7.Other
Setup duties and Information

This chapter
discusses other settings and equipment setup around the ECU.

8.Startup
Procedure

This chapter
discusses the basic sequence of actions to prevent damage during the startup
faze.

9.Tuning
Principles

This chapter
discusses tuning information after the engine has been started. This is to
enhance performance and economy and correct operation of the ECU.

10.Fault
Finding

This chapter
discusses the symptoms and remedies of known faults.

11.Specifications

This is a list of
specifications for the TITAN ECU.

12.Firmware Programmer

This chapter
discusses how to upgrade or change the TITAN ECU Firmware.

TITAN ECU

Welcome

Congratulations on your purchase of the TITAN Engine Control Unit (ECU). We are sure that you will be satisfied with
this robust, compact and user friendly controller, which was designed to meet
today’s requirements. This ECU was developed around the people involved with
Management Computers. We hope that it will give you years of trouble
free operation.

Please read this manual to learn about the safety
precautions and design features of your ECU. Failure to use and install this
management system properly may cause injury to people or damage to equipment. This Manual was
written with the novice and professional engine tuner in mind, and we would
like to urge you to install the ECU according to our recommendations. This is
the best way to get the most out of your ECU.

Please read the Precautions before and after installation and
before connecting the ECU, to ensure that the correct procedures are followed.

1.TITAN Introduction

1.1ECU Design Philosophy

1.2ECU Control Philosophy

The TITAN
Engine Control Unit (ECU) was designed to be a cost effective
replacement for high tech fuel managements systems. It uses unique features
found in high tech systems, although it is still easy to install and program.
It is designed with the novice and professional installer in mind. See the ECU Control Philosophy further in the
manual to understand how it works.

TITAN is a South African
made product and can be customized for dedicated engines and models. It can
also be combined to form larger complex systems for racing applications. It is
a reliable compact system which is easy to mount in the driver’s compartment.
No external firing modules or converter boards are necessary.

The ECU is
customized for specific applications and the installer does not have to pay for
excess wires or unused features. Nor does he have to buy separate firing
modules and MAP sensors which will increase the price. Instead it is compiled
with the correct harness and equipment as well as software and maps to ease
installation and setup. The software will also be calibrated for the sensors of
the specific engine.

This ECU comes in
three models with standard harnesses to accommodate most engine requirements
namely Standard, Intermediate and Advanced units. The units are designed to be
small and compact and use the latest in high speed micro controllers with
surface mount technology. These units are machine soldered to minimize human
error.

Firing modules
that will reduce cost are incorporated in the ECU. Analog idle control is
included on board for one and two wire idle valves. External Stepper idle
control units can be connected with all three types of ECU’s.

The PC Tuning
software is standard for all units. The specific ECU will blank out all tuning
fields not applicable.

Other key features
are variable charge times which are MAP (Mean Absolute Pressure) dependant,
fuel cut-off features, launch control, lambda loop control, general purpose
outputs, altitude correction etc.

The different
models are as follows:

TITAN Standard

This is the most basic and cost effective
form of the ECU. It is a single channel trigger, (Magnetic or Hall input,) one
coil output and two batch injector outputs. The injectors are pulsed 180° out
of phase. This ECU is suitable for cars with a distributor and single coil.
Engines such as 3,4,5,6 and 8 cylinders can be used. For 12 cylinders the
intermediate ECU is recommended for more injector outputs. Electronic
distributors do not need to be modified for fazing. Idle control and launch
control is standard.

TITAN Intermediate

This ECU is for more complicated trigger
setups in distributors like Toyota 24T+TDC, Nissan Optic, all crank gears, and customized
optic disks etc… It does Split-Sequential fueling on 4, 6, and 8 cylinder
injector banks. It has one coil output. Idle control and launch control is
standard.

TITAN Advanced

This ECU is designed as the intermediate but
with the added feature of multi coil or wasted spark. The ECU has 6 trigger
outputs which can be used for different combinations of injectors and coils.
Sensor inputs can be 60-2, 36-1, 24T+TDC and just about any kind of hall or
magnetic setup on the engine. Coil driver outputs can be for single or wasted
spark coils. It can do idle control and launch control is standard.

All wiring
harnesses use screened cables for neatness of installation and to prevent
interference from other electronics or electromagnetic pulses, which may otherwise
cause erratic behavior of the ECU.

External MAP
sensors are used to reduce vacuum line length into the cab which will delay
reaction time due to the mass of the air volume. It also makes the ECU more
versatile to adapt for different aspirations on engines with or without turbo’s
or superchargers.

1.1 ECU Design Philosophy

The ECU was
designed with many factors in mind. First is that engine management does not
have to be complicated and reserved for a selected few mechanical geniuses.
Just like the old days, if you take some time to read a few books and dare to
use a screwdriver and timing light, you could get to know you carburetor and
ignition pretty well and become handy in tuning and servicing your own vehicle.
If you ask me is that nowadays it is n lot easier. With all the information at
your fingertips on the internet, and manuals teaching you what the pro’s had to
find out over the years, there is no excuse for illiteracy. You plug a laptop
into the Engine Control Unit ECU and use a lambda sensor and start playing
around. The manuals will even explain how to do it. You don’t have to go and
buy a set of jets and painstakingly change them around to get the desired
effect. With the ECU you can change them while driving! However to get people
to read the manual before picking up the phone or paying someone else, is quite
a problem. Obviously not for you. Thanks!

Secondly is that
only the necessary features are added and no gimmicks which make the ECU too
complicated. No unnecessary load sites and too fine tuning sites which make the
system slow and difficult to tune are added. If an engine has performance,
economy and ease of use then that is all you require. Why make it complicated?
All those unnecessary electronic components is just more things that can fail
and escalate the cost.

Thirdly, no engine
manufacturer uses the same equipment and sensors as the other. The car
manufacturer’s systems even differ between models. So a one management fits all
is not a good idea. You end up paying for a lot of things you don’t use and a
lot of things on the engine that you can’t use, and it takes time figuring out
what you need or don’t need for the installation. There is also a lot more
components that can fail and take up space.

So what makes the TITAN
ECU so different? Well look at some features. Very small, Split-Sequential,
internal modules, customized firmware for most engines, use the sensors and
equipment on the engine, easy to install and tune the enthusiast, maps
included, no dynamometer required, easy to repair by local agents, - to name
but a few.

The ECU is
designed to be understood by mechanics and enthusiasts. Just like a carburetor
it has a main jet and an idle jet. The ECU will calculate fuel from these
settings using the MAP sensor. Only two settings and your car should be able to
go. Again just like a carburetor the ECU has to compensate for cold starting,
slow running, fast running power valve, acceleration and automatic gearbox
damping and idling etc. Obviously we can add air temperature and battery
voltage to it. We could even have the ECU do other stuff like fuel cutoff on
down hill’s, fan control and air conditioner cut-out during up hill’s, rev
limiters, launch control to name but a few.

On the timing side
there was always the dynamic timing with the weights and the vacuum timing with
the vacuum canister. You had to pay around 1k to have your distributor
re-curved if you switch a cam or soup it up. How easy is it now with a laptop?
You can even have a timing curve that goes up, down and up again. Impossible
with weights! Also easy nowadays is to install a turbo. Now you have to retard
the time under boost. Easy!

So please do a
little homework and save yourself a lot of hassles and money of course. And
please read the manuals!

Features

·
Accurate Split-Sequential Fueling – Gives
better performance and fuel consumption due to atomization on each cylinder is
the same.

·
Internal Coil & Injector Drivers – No
extra cost for TP100 or custom firing modules.

·
Single & Multi Coil Spark System – Use standard
coil packs on the engine.

·
Use Sensors on Engine – No need to do
modifications on distributors or converter boards or TP500 modules.

·
Custom Bolt-On Timing Gears – some engines
require different gears to ease installation like the 36-1 for the Lexus Engine
which comes as a bolt on unit. No modifications to fit these gears.

·
Cold Start & Idle Control – This
functions will ease with starting a cold engine and keep the RPM’s constant
when air conditioners or automatic gearboxes draw power from the engine.

·
Launch Control Standard – These are for
racing applications to increase the boost pressure on the line and eliminate Turbo Lag. Note that the buttons are
optional.

·
Two General Purpose Outputs – This can be
used for fan control, shift light, Aircon Cut-Out on Pull-Off or Up-Hill etc.

·
Standard Harness – No need to keep several
harnesses in stock for different engines.

·
Compact Electronics – This will make the ECU
easy to hide under the dashboard as it takes very little space.

·
SA Design with Agent Repair Training – No
need to send to manufacturer for repairs as the reputable agents will be
equipped with repair training end test equipment.

·
Complete Kits for Most Engines – Even rare
combinations can be customized on request.

·
Cost Effective – No need to buy expensive
systems as all the necessary features are included with the ECU.

·
Rotary Systems – The 2 rotor engines use a
normal Advance ECU.

·
External Map Sensor – easy to change between
1Bar, 2.5Bar & 3Bar configurations

·
Easy DIY Instructions – Save a lot of money on
installation if you are a person who is up to the challenge.

·
Start-Up Maps included – This will make for
easy start-up & tuning with the help of a Lambda sensor

·
User Friendly Tuning Software – You don’t
have to be a specialist to understand how the software works. Just read the
manual paying attention.

·
Tuning map can be locked to prevent
tampering. Useful for engine builders to give guarantees.

·
No Dyno Required – Tune your own vehicle and
save some more money. Just following the instructions in the manual carefully.

(Note that the last four points are for the
person who is handy with tools and understand wiring and operation of an
engine. You don’t have to be a Boffin though. If you are not sure, download the
manual and drawing and read through it first. It’s free of charge!)

1.2 ECU Control Philosophy

If you read the
design philosophy, then you know we designed this system better than a
carburetor but not necessary more difficult. In fact I’m going to explain it
around the trusty old Weber. As we market this system as DIY and self tune, I
am going to explain some basics as well. Do not be scared of the terms and the
electronics. If you worked on a program like Windows Excel, you should be able
to breeze through this.

On a carburetor
you had a low pressure fuel pump which only job was to fill the bowl with the
help of a needle and seat. Then the fuel was drawn with suction through the
jets into the intake manifold. With fuel injection you need a high pressure
pump around 3.5Bar which can deliver enough flow to keep a constant pressure on
the injectors. This is the job of the fuel pressure regulator. It is normally
set around 2.5Bar, but will vary the pressure with intake vacuum. This means
that if the vacuum drops to absolute the fuel pressure will also drop so that a
pressure difference over the injector is constant. Remember the tip of the
injector is subjected to vacuum which will suck more fuel through it at idle
than at wide open throttle WOT. So the regulator must have a vacuum line
connected from its diaphragm to the intake
after the throttle body. This is also true for boost pressures with turbo’s and
superchargers. So before you begin, power the fuel pump and check the pressure
and leaks. The ECU will not know if this system fails except maybe a lean
mixture indication on the air/fuel ratio sensor (lambda).

On the carburetor,
fuel is metered by the main jet and ventury size. The jets are fixed and can be
varied by changing them. This jet must be large enough to fuel the engine on
normal load conditions. With the ECU Fuel is metered by opening the relevant
injector for a specific time. The more air is let into the cylinder, the more
fuel is required and the longer the injector is opened. The ECU uses the Map
sensor signal to calculate how much air goes into the cylinder. Changing this
amount is done by adjusting the main jet
bar on the fuel maps. This value is
the main fuel parameter and all other calculations are based around it. That is
why we set it first. See Setting
the main Jet.

On the Weber you
have idle jets which ensure that enough fuel and air is supplied for idling.
The ECU also has this Idle Jet. It is calculated with a portion of the main jet
value and is faded off as RPM’s increase. This is the second setting to be made
and is done with the engine idling in neutral with no load.

On automatic cars
the air idle adjuster is made a bit larger to accommodate a richer mix if the
car has to idle in drive. With the ECU you simply raise the dots around the
vacuum bar on the Vacuum map under Fuel maps. The vacuum bar will settle on
different values between neutral idle and drive idle. This means 2 idle jet
configurations.

Normal running on
the Weber is only done by the main jet and ventury size. On the ECU you have
the main vacuum map and a cruise map to vary the fuel for different conditions.
Higher gears will decrease the vacuum and lower the RPM’s. That means you can
vary fuel ratios and even compensate for different gears.

For WOT the Weber
sometimes had 2 tricks. One is the power valve which will enrich the mix at
lower RPM’s and some had a separate jet on top to add fuel at high RPM’s. The
ECU has a RPM Map just for WOT. Now you can adjust the mix through the whole of
the RPM range.

Carburetors all
have an accelerator pump. If you press the throttle too quickly, the manifold
vacuum falls away and the flow over the ventury is for a moment not enough to
suck enough fuel for the change. Also during the transition from idling to main
jet create this problem. On the ECU vacuum is measured very fast and as the injector
sits right at the intake valve, the ECU react almost instantly. There is
however provision for extra fuel and two accelerator pumps is incorporated. One
is working with vacuum signal and one working with TPS signal. If you have a
slow vacuum signal it is better to use the TPS signal, as it is connected to
your foot.

For cold starting
the engine requires more air and richer fuel mixture. The Weber had a trick
where you press the throttle once. The choke butterfly will close completely
and the accelerator pump will squirt some fuel to prime the mix. The bottom
butterfly will also be forced open slightly. If you start the engine, a vacuum
will form in the ventury sucking harder on the idle jets and main jets and so
make the cranking mixture rich enough for starting. The moment the engine
starts, a vacuum canister will force the choke butterfly open slightly causing
air to flow freely through the ventury. As the engine heats up the choke
butterfly will open completely also releasing the bottom throttle to its normal
position.  The ECU does this by opening
the idle valve to accommodate for more air. It will enrich the fuel using the
temperature compensation map. It will squirt a set amount of fuel (Start Prime Pulse) the moment the engine
starts to crank. When the engine starts, it will enrich the mix (Start Enrichment) for a few seconds
fading it out. As the engine heats up, the ECU will lean out the mix on the
water temp compensation map and reduce the idling RPM to the normal setting.

Furthermore the
ECU can compensate for air temperature correction where hot intake air is
thinner requiring a leaner mixture. It can also compensate for battery voltage
deviation which would influence injector opening times causing mixture
deviations. Electric idle valves help the engine not to pre ignite after the
ignition is switched off. This is due to petrol spontaneously combust on hot
carbons in the engine. With the ECU fuel is cut off immediately during power
off. So no pre ignition here. On steep inclines the carburetor always have a
problem where the bowls overflow or the main jets are exposed to air casing the
engine to loose power or flood. This is no problem for the ECU as the petrol is
in a closed pressure loop and the injectors can work upside down. Another
problem of the carburetor is peculation due to engine compartment heat. The
fuel simply starts to boil and then flood the carburetor causing the engine to
stall. With fuel injection again the system is under pressure resulting in a
much higher temperature for peculation. Also the fuel is circulated in the tank
causing it to cool down.

On the timing
side, the normal distributor had 2 dimensions for timing alterations. Firstly
it had weights that did a single advance with RPM curve till a certain RPM and then
it was a flat curve. This same curve was also programmed into later firing
modules. For this dynamic timing the ECU can alter the timing in degree
divisions every 100 RPM’s. It can go up and down which is of great advantage to
top end camshafts.

For vacuum timing
the mechanical vacuum canister was the norm. Some had an adjustable spring
tension but they always followed a fixed curve in one direction. The ECU uses
the Map sensor signal and the vacuum map to add or subtract timing especially
for turbo engines. Again any combination in degree divisions can be adjusted
making this a nice feature to add power and economy. It also helps to keep the
plugs clean.

On the coil side,
the ECU is far better than the old point condenser system. It uses variable dwell
timing which means that the coils is always charged the same time to ensure
that spark energy is at a maximum. Some systems may not have enough time at
high RPM’s to achieve this. However faster coils may be used. The ECU will
calculate when to start charging the coil to ensure it is fully charged before
it will be discharged via the spark plugs. This method will prevent wasted
energy which heat up the modules and also ensure a proper spark every time,
even during cranking when battery voltage is low.

Now comparing the
carburetor to a fuel management system we can clearly see the advantages. There
are lots of other features like fuel cutoff during deceleration, idle control
for automatic cars, and air conditioners, launch control etc.  To successfully tune the engine yourself may
take a bit of trial and error. Two conditions to always be careful of. Never go
too lean on WOT mixtures and be careful of too much advance in the timing
department. Your ear will tell you most of the time but it is not always
possible to hear pinging. A good lambda sensor however will indicate if you are
on a lean mixture.

2. Safety Precautions

The following
guidelines will ensure proper operation the first time. Failure to install
equipment correctly may damage it or other equipment permanently. These
failures will solely be the responsibility of the installer and no guarantees
will be given by us. Make sure you have read the Terms and Conditions
on the website www.spitronics.co.za before you
install this ECU. By installing the ECU you automatically agree to these
conditions. All equipment is tested before it leaves the factory. We accept no
liability for malfunctioning of the equipment, or to injury that may result
from installation or the use of the equipment. We also accept no liability for
costs of traveling of transportation of the equipment or parts or vehicle
recovery due to failures of any equipment. Please read the instructions and
drawing and make sure you understand before you begin.

2.1 Operator Safety

Use only proper tools and products suited for auto installations.
Sub standard products and installation procedures may cause failure to the
equipment having your customer break down in dangerous areas.

Use correct thickness of wire to carry the entire current
requirement for that circuit. Too thin wires will heat up and may start a
fire causing injury.

Use fuses to protect each circuit separately. Joint circuits
require large fuses which may heat and melt lesser circuits causing fires.

Solder joints, and cover it with shrink sleeve to prevent loose
connections which may cause fires. Space solder-joints so that they do not
sit next to each other minimizing the chance of a short circuit.

2.2 Equipment Safety

Never connect a TITAN
ECU on the older EMU Hall cables without the cable modification. See compatibility.

If you have a firmware
programmer, do not load Ver. E1 EMU firmware on the Ver. E2 TITAN
ECU or visa-versa. It will damage the Micro because they are different.

Never switch the power
on, if the ECU enclosure is not grounded properly – this may destroy some
sensors.

Never switch the power
on with the coil connected. If the Trigger Level Output logic is set wrong
it may destroy the coil or driver. Leave the 10 way connector disconnected
when you switch the ECU on the first time. Then set the coil logic right,
save the data and switch off. Then connect the 10 way connecter and switch
on. Ensure that the fuse is the minimum required value. Too large fuse
will not blow resulting in driver or coil destruction.

Test the installation
with the test procedure before connecting the ECU – this will prevent
damage due to faulty wiring.

Connect the injectors
to its own relay – other items will cause a voltage drop and result in
leaner mixtures.

Connect the relay
supplies directly to battery positive via a fuse as shown in the drawing –
otherwise voltage drops will still cause lean mixtures.

Install the free-wheel
Diodes on relays to prevent spikes from interfering with the ECU.

Break out pins
1,4,6,7,8 & 9 on USB to RS232 converters and on serial cables.
These pins are used for other inputs and outputs of the ECU. It will hang
the ECU and damage coils or drivers. This does not apply to Spitronics USB
converters.

Make sure that relay
pin numbers of the relay correspond with the drawing. A different relay
may damage the ECU.

Check that coil
connections are secure. Loose connections will damage the internal driver
Mosfets.

Do not connect screen wires on the engine. The
starter will draw current through then melting the harness.

The TPS must be
connected correctly as it may damage the ECU or TPS permanently.

Ensure that wires are kept away from hot or
sharp parts in the engine. Also ensure that engine movement does not put
strain on the wires, as metal fatigue will break the wires in time,
resulting in ECU failure.

Ensure a proper earth between battery negative
and chassis and also between battery negative and the engine. Do not earth
the engine on the body or the body on the engine.

Do not put cutout switches from coil negative
to ground as this may burn the coil permanently. Rather break the supply
line (Red Wire) through a switch so that the module does not have power.

Do not disconnect the battery while engine is
running. The alternator will create high voltage spikes which may damage
the ECU permanently. Ensure that all connections from the battery and
alternator are secure. Also connect the alternator charge wire directly to
battery positive and not to the harness somewhere.

Do not connect the ECU outputs directly to
solenoids or fuel pumps. It is only strong enough to pull in 2 x DC 12V
relays. It can draw only 2A to ground.

Test the coil resistance to see which type
coil you are using and if it is still functional. This is important to
program the correct parameters. See Coil Selection. If you are not sure take it to your agent
for a free test, or start with the lowest Coil Time value namely 2
milliseconds.

The trigger input may not be connected to coil
negative. The high voltage spikes on coil negative will damage the unit
permanently.

Make sure about the correct Jumper Settings before you switch the ignition on.

3. Requirements

3.1 Engine Requirements

We have to assume
the vehicle you are using is either an existing electronic fuel injection model
or has been converted to fuel injection by the addition of a throttle body,
fuel injectors and high pressure fuel pump and filter.

You need to have
the following components fitted: (Available from your agent)

Fuel
pump capable of a continuous pressure of 3.5 bar.

Fuel
pressure regulator.

Fuel
injectors matched to engine requirement.

Throttle
body with Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). (optional)

Water
temperature sender.

A
locked (no internal advance) distributor using either hall, magnetic or
optical signal generation or any Crank Trigger device.

Good
quality suppressed HT leads.

Air
temperature sensor (optional)

Lambda
sensor (optional)

Idle
valve or stepper motor (optional)

Notes on Ignition System

The ECU can be
used for fuel control only, provided an ignition pulse output is supplied to
the ECU. This pulse must be a 12V to ground signal and may not be connected to
coil negative. The high voltage spikes on coil negative will damage the unit
permanently. Connecting to an ignition output is necessary to provide a signal
for controlling the injector timing.

It can also be
used for an advanced map-able ignition controller only. You can accomplish
locking a conventional distributor by either welding or bolting the weights
together and disconnecting the vacuum advance unit.

3.2 PC Requirements

Pentium
4 Laptop

Windows
XP with service pack 2 or later

Serial
Port or USB device with USB to RS232 Converter (19200 baud rate)

Screen
Resolution 1024*768

Ensure
that the latest drivers for the PC are installed.

This software is
developed under the latest Delphi environment. It requires a lot of processing
speed and may not run on older computers.

4. Hardware Installation

4.1 Compatibility to the old EMU series

4.2 Harness Selection

4.3 Jumper Selection

4.4 Installing Procedure of the ECU

4.5 Injectors

4.6 Sensors

4.7 Idle Control

4.8 Launch Control

4.9 Micro Fueling

4.10 Additional Wiring

4.11 Coil Selection

4.12 Setting Timing

4.13 Fuel Supply

This chapter tells
the user how to install and wire the TITAN ECU. Be sure to read precautions before attempting installation. There
are a few do’s and don’ts’ to consider as well.

4.1 Compatibility to the old EMU series

Note that the TITAN
ECU may be connected onto magnetic EMU harnesses directly but that you have to
modify all Hall harnesses. On the 12 way connector Pin 5 must be moved to Pin
11 and Pin 6 must move to Pin12. Failure to do this will damage your sensor
permanently. The old EMU will still work with this cable modification.

The EMU series
will not work on the E22 TITAN series cables. Thus backwards
compatibility is possible but not forward compatibility.

4.2 Harness Selection

The TITAN
ECU has only two harnesses for all engine configurations. E22 is a
12Way harness that connects all the inputs or sensors to the ECU, and E21 is a
10Way harness that connects all the outputs to the ECU.

·
Magnetic or Hall sensors are selectable on
the ECU with addition of a load resistor to reduce interference.

·
On the 10Way harness the combination of
injectors and coils differ between engines. Connecting a coil on an injector
driver will overcharge the coil and may destroy the driver or coil. Ensure
correct wire selection according to the drawing.

4.3 Jumper Selection

The TITAN
ECU has standard harnesses for all engine configurations. The two basic
groups of sensors require 12V for Hall and Optic sensors and 5V for Magnetic
sensors. This selection between the supply voltages is done by jumper settings.
There is also a stronger pull-up resistor required for the hall or Optic
sensors and they are also selected with the Jumpers. See the illustrations on
how to set these jumpers correctly for you application.

4.3.1 Trigger Sensor

JP 1 and JP2 are used for this pickup.

4.3.2 TDC Sensor

JP 3 and JP4 are used for this pickup.

4.3.3 Magnetic Sensors

With this sensor JP2 & JP4 acts as a filter resistor which is only used
if interference is detected on the RPM signal.

JP1 & JP2 are always set to 5V as in the drawing.

4.3.4 Hall / Optic Sensors

With these sensors JP2 & JP4 acts as a Pull-Up resistor which is
normally on. If the sensor has a weak signal these jumpers may be selected to
Off to reduce load on them.

JP1 & JP2 are always set to 12V as in the drawing.

4.4 Installing Procedure of the ECU

Locate
a convenient mounting position for the ECU inside the cab for water
protection. Humidity and heavy duty service units are available on request
and will be custom made.

Ensure that the
enclosure of the ECU is grounded with at least two metal screws onto the
metal body of the car. If
the ECU is not bolted directly onto an earthed metal surface, you MUST
make sure that you run a 4mm2 ground wire to one of the ECU’s
bolt holes, otherwise your ECU will not power up and you will damage the
MAP sensor permanently. There may flow as much as 30A through the
earth wire.

Connect the two black
wires firmly to the enclosure base. This is the screens of all the cables
and also the ground wires of the TPS Lambda and temperature sensors. Bad
connections may damage the sensors.

Feed
all wires of the harness, except the serial cable, through a hole in the
firewall. A good seal around the wiring is necessary to prevent damage and
engine fumes and water from entering the cockpit.

Each
cable in the harness is marked to where it has to go. The same name is on
the electrical drawing. Wire colors are marked on the drawing for specific
pin connections. Take special care for TPS wiring as a fault here may
damage the voltage regulator on the ECU.

Pull
additional PVC sleeve over the cables for extra protection of the
harnesses.  This sleeve is
customized on your installation and dependant on routing of the cables.

Mount
the MAP sensor on the back of the fire wall. It should be higher than the
vacuum takeoff so that fuel condensate in the hose can run back into the
engine and not to the sensor. Try mounting the inlet pipe downwards to
keep the sensor clean.

The
screened cables for the sensors must go to the sensor and connected as
close as possible. Connecting these wires to existing harness on the
engine will cause the wires to pick up electrical interference and cause
erratic behavior of the ECU.

No screen wires may be connected or earthed
to the engine. They are connected on the ECU side to the enclosure. On the
Stepper Idle control board the screen wire is connected to 12V. Make sure
it is not earthed.

Test
each harness according to the drawing or to the optional test procedure to
ensure correct wiring, before connecting the ECU. This will indicate
installation errors beforehand which may damage the ECU.

Plug
the harness into the ECU and taking care not to damage the pins and
connectors. If it is sticky do not force it in. Rather move the connector
slightly from side to side till it mates with the ECU connector pins.

All power electronic
components such as fuel pumps, coils fans etc must be wired via a relay
circuit directly from the battery with separate fuses in the positive
supply for protection. Do not wire any of these devices directly from the
Ignition switch or on the same circuit as the ECU. This will cause spikes
which may damage or influence correct operation of equipment. Earth
connections must be as short as possible to earth and not connected to a
common earth wire which is connected at a distant ground.

Make sure that the
correct wire thickness is used for each power electronic component. If
wires are common ensure that the wire is thick enough to carry the total
current. Too thin wires will heat up and may start a fire. The same goes
for relays. Be careful of cheap relays. They can seize and start a fire.
Use 0.5mm2 of wire for every 5A of current. Also check pin
numbers of the relays as they differ from one manufacturer to the other.
This mistake may be costly!

Solder each connection
and use shrink sleeve rather than insulation tape. Stagger solder joins so
that they do not sit next to each other. Cover connections and loose wires
with PVC or pigtail sleeve rather than insulation tape.

Ensure that all
electronic settings are correct before connecting the 10Way
connecter.  Certain settings may
damage equipment if not set to recommendations. Especially the coil output
trigger level. Follow the start-up procedure.

Ensure a proper ground
from battery negative to the body and from battery negative to the engine.
This wire must be thick enough to carry the current of all the equipment
in the car.

4.5 Injectors

4.5.1 Wiring

The injectors have
to be wired on the engine. Some of the kits include an injector harness like
the Lexus V8. Make sure that the combination of injectors is correct as this
will influence consistency between cylinders. Injectors come in 2 groups. High
resistance (12 to 18 Ohm) and low resistance (2 to 4 Ohm). For high resistance
injectors you may add up to 4 injectors per channel. They are always connected
in parallel. Low resistor injectors however should be limited to one per
channel. Or they can be connected 2 in series. They should actually be
connected to a different current limiting driver. They may heat up if not
properly cooled and eventually self-destruct. For injector wiring see specific
wiring details on the relevant wiring diagrams on CD.

4.5.2 Sequential injection

There are enough
outputs available for 4 cylinder engines to do sequential injection and wasted
spark. Specific models only. This however will require a TDC signal indicating
that cylinder 1 is on firing and is normally obtained from a separate cam
sensor. Here fuel is injected once every 2 RPM’s and always start at Bottom
Deck Centre (BDC). Since there is not much to gain over the next method, we
design most of the software for Split-Sequential injection. Each injector has
its own driver from the ECU. See the specific wiring diagram.

4.5.3 Split-Sequential injection

The ECU is
designed to do split-sequential injection. This method will inject on the two
cylinders that move up and down together. It will inject once per RPM and will
start at BDC. Fuel is injected very accurately and excellent CO adjustments can
be achieved. The advantage of this method is that each cylinder receives it
fuel under the same conditions, resulting in very smooth idling and revving. It
is definitely better on power and consumption than the batch injection method.
Injectors are wired in the same sequence as wasted spark. Split the firing
order in 2 and write se second half next to the first half. See example. Then
group the injectors using the first of both halves, then the second then the
third then the fourth. Two injectors are wired on each driver from the ECU. On
the CD are drawings for these injector combinations. See the chart below:

ECU Driver

Wire Color

Firing Order 4 Cyl

Subaru

Firing Order V6 Cyl

Firing Order V6 Cyl

Firing Order Str 6 Cyl

Firing Order 8 Cyl Chev

1342 or 1243

1324

123456

142536

153624

18436572

INJ 1

White

1 & 4

1 & 2

1 & 4

1 & 5

1 & 6

1 & 6

INJ 2

Black

2 & 3

3 & 4

2 & 5

4 & 3

5 & 2

8 & 5

INJ 3

Green

3 & 6

2 & 6

3 & 4

4 & 7

INJ 4

Yellow

3 & 2

Ex: Lexus V8
Firing order:  1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2

1 8 4 3
is 1&6 = White, 8&5 = Black, 4&7 = Green, 3&2 = Yellow

6 5 7 2

4.5.4 Batch fire

With this method,
two injector drivers are being pulsed 180° out of faze. Although not preferred,
fuel metering and timing is done very accurately and should still give
excellent results. Split the injectors in two groups to divide the current on
the 2 driver outputs. Put alternate numbers on the firing order together to
ensure a more even fuel distribution. For bigger engines keep the mean supply
current below 7A. More outputs are available in the intermediate and advance
units. See the specific wiring diagram.

4.5.5 Throttle Body Injection

With this method,
injectors are situated at the throttle body. Spitronics do a Weber 2 Injector
and a Holley 4 Injector conversion. With these conversions injectors is
situated on the top of the butterfly. The ECU also has a special program to
pulse these injectors in sequence and vary the pulses per RPM to get a much
smoother distribution of the fuel mixture. See the specific wiring diagram to
ensure the correct injectors are on the correct drivers. On the CD are drawings
for this injector wiring.

4.5.6 Micro Fueling Injector

The ECU allows for
the use of dual injectors per cylinder as explained in the Setup. Wiring is done
in two ways which differ also with the firmware loaded into the ECU.

If it is set to Driver, then the ECU has drivers
available to operate the extra injectors. Then they are connected in the same
manner as the primary injector. This system is only available for four cylinder
engines with wasted spark coils. Then there are two injectors spare that can be
used. See the Micro Fueling Drawing supplied on CD.

If it is set to GP 1 or 2 then they are tied into the
primary injector on the negative pins. Then their positive pins is powered vie
a separate Mosfet on the positive pins. See the Micro Fueling Drawing supplied
on CD.

4.6 Sensors

There are three groups of sensors for crank angle sensing. Magnetic,
Hall and Optic sensors. Hall and optic sensors both give a square wave output
and are treated exactly the same. They have electronic components in the sensor
which convert the signals to square wave. The Hall sensor uses magnetic field
where optic uses infrared light. In both cases a beam is broken and detected.
Magnetic sensors are just a magnetic coil around a magnet. The metal point passing
this sensor induces a spike which has then to be converted to a square wave so
that the processor can work with it. On the TITAN ECU the all the sensors use the same inputs. They have different supply
voltages which is selectable with jumpers on the PC Board. See the drawing for
correct settings.

4.6.1 Magnetic sensors

These sensors provide
only a voltage spike to the ECU. The ECU will convert this spike to a
usable square wave to be used by the micro processor.

Each sensor has its
own positive and negative wire from the ECU. Do not connect magnetic sensors with common
ground wires. The negative is connected to 5V and will damage the ECU if
connected to ground. Disconnect and isolate it first.

Make sure that the positives
and negatives of the sensors are connected correctly. Changing them around
will retard the timing with revs or may cause the ECU to miss or backfire.

The ECU has an extra
pull-up resistor of 2.2KOhm set with the jumper which can be set to reduce
interference.

In certain cases a 1 K
ohm resistor may be connected between positive and negative to reduce
spikes in the signal.

Connect the screened
cables from the ECU as close to the sensor as possible. Do not let single
open wires run along the spark plug wires or the coils as this will induce
interference in the ECU causing erratic firing.

Do not connect the
screen to the engine. It is already connected to the body at the ECU.

Do not connect other
devices to this pickup as it will interfere with the signal to the ECU.

Testing a Magnetic sensor

These sensors have a wired coil with a magnet. They normally have two
wires. Some do have 3 wires which have an earth which is not connected to the
coil. The Coil resistance vary from 150 ohm to 1200 ohm typically. If you swap
the tester wires around you would measure the same resistance value. To test
for positive put the meter on milli volts DC. Connect the wires to the coil of
the sensor. Move an iron object to the sensor and look closely at the polarity indicator.
If it indicate positive when moving closer to the sensor and negative when
moving away from the sensor, it means that the red wire of your meter is on the
positive of the sensor. If it is the other way round, then the black wire is on
the positive of the sensor.

4.6.2 Hall & Optic sensors

These sensors already
provide the ECU with a square wave.

Hall sensors work with
magnetic fields but it does not mean it is a magnetic sensor. Failure to
identify this will cause incorrect wiring and no operation.

They have three wires.
Each sensor has a positive (12V), earth and signal out pin. Connecting
these wrong may damage the ECU or the sensor permanently. If you are not
sure which pin is which, ask your agent to bench test it first with
protection resistors to get correct pin-outs.

The ECU has an extra
pull-up resistor of 2.2KOhm set with the jumper. If erratic misfires
occur, another 1K Ohm resister may be connected between the signal and 12V
wire on the sensor.

If the sensor requires
a resistor in the positive wire to limit current, it must be put in
separately.

Testing a Hall or Optic sensor

·

·
These sensors
normally have 3 wires. A supply wire, normally 12V, an earth wire and a signal
out. This sensor has electronic components that require power to operate.
Connecting this sensor wrong my damage it permanently. First test for
resistance on all the pins and swap the test leads around to make sure it is
not a magnetic sensor. Put the meter on diode test and measure voltage drops
over all the pins. You should get V drops between 0.5V to 1.9V. This is your
indicator that you have an electronic unit.

·
Now take 2 x 1K
resistors and tie one end of each to the +12V. This will ensure that if you
connect the supply wrong you will not damage the component as the resistor will
limit the current to 10mA. Now put the ground on one pin and the 2 resisters on
the other pins. Put the meter black wire on earth for the remainder of the
tests. Connect the meter red wire to any of the other pins. Now move an iron
object to the sensor or in the gap and away. If the signal varies between 0V
and 12V then this pin may be the signal output of the sensor. Now put the red
wire on the other pin and repeat the iron process. This voltage should not
change. It may be less than 12V due to the drop over the resistor. If so then
this is the supply pin. With other words one of the resistor pins should
respond rapidly to iron pulses while the other one remains fairly constant.

·
Now change the earth
pin to the next and repeat the process. Note that you may get a similar
reaction if you have the earth and the signal pins wrong. The indicator to see
which one is which is to see which pin reacts the most to the iron pulse. That
pin is the signal output and the other one the earth.

·
Remember this is a
guideline to black box testing and not a failsafe operation. Note point 4 above
and rather consult the specifications from the manufacturer or vehicle
diagrams.

4.6.3 Throttle Position Sensor

·
The TPS must operate through the whole range
of the throttle movement to ensure that the ECU can measure the whole of the
movement.

·
The TPS must be calibrated in the PC software
as certain features like idle control, prime pulse, flood control and fuel
cutoff require certain positions of the throttle to operate correctly. This is
done in the setup menu before starting the engine. (see TPS calibration under Active
Sensors)

·
The sensor is connected to 5V, ground and
signal input. Connecting it wrong may damage the ECU or TPS as you may short
the 5V to ground. Test it before you connect it to the ECU.

4.6.4 Testing a TPS for the Correct Pin-Outs

·

1.
Test the resistance with an Ohm Meter between
2 pins at a time. Each time move the throttle open and close. If the resistance
do not change and is approx 5000 Ohm, then you found pin A & C. The
remaining pin is B which is the wiper. Mark it as B.

2.
Now test the B pin with one of the other
pins. If it is below 500 Ohms then that pin is C. If it is above 4500 Ohm that
pin is A.

3.
Now to double check. Measure between B &
C. if the throttle is closed the resistance is below 500 Ohm. If you open the
throttle the resistance increases to above 4500 Ohm.

4.
If you measure between A & C the
resistance is around 5000Ohm and does not change with throttle movement.

4.6.5 Lambda Sensor

For
the one wire lambda sensor, connect it to the red wire of the lambda cable
only. For the four wire sensor, connect the sensor wires to the red and
blue wire of the lambda cable. Sensor positive to the red wire and sensor
negative to the blue wire. The element is connected to ground and the 12V
supply from the fuse box that supplies the injectors. (See drawing). Do
not earth the screen or connect the element ground to the screen. This
will induce voltage drops resulting in faulty fuel ratio readings.

The
lambda sensor used by the ECU is a narrow band sensor.

Testing a Lambda Sensor for the Correct Pin-Outs

Test the
resistance with an Ohm Meter between 2 pins at a time. The element normally has
the same colors and has a resistance of 6 to 12 Ohm. When you find the element
connect it to ground and 12 volt as above. It does not matter which wire is
which as it is only an element. The sensor part can only be measured on the car
when it is working. So connect the two remaining wires to the lambda cable as
explained above. Test it when the engine is hot. If it does not work swop the
sensor wires and test it again. This will not damage the sensor if connected
wrong.

4.6.6 Water and Air Temperature Sensor

Always use a
2 wire sensor and connect the one wire to the sensors cable white and the
other to the relevant sensor input wire. This will prevent ground
interference with the engine currents. It your sensor is broken you can
replace the water temperature sensor with a 2K NTC Resistor and the air
temperature sensor with a 10K NTC Resistor. To test them have them at a
temperature of 20°C and then they should read the resistance they are
specified for.

4.6.7 Map Sensor

The map sensor is
an external unit and can be any variety. We supply 3 basic types depending on
stock availability or value required by the customer. The sensors have
different values and must be calibrated. The vacuum or boost rating of the
sensor must be entered in the software to get the scales correct. (See Map calibration
under Active
Sensors)

Always connect the
Map sensor as close to the engine as possible. Do not join it to other vacuum
lines. It would delay the vacuum signal and cause flat spots or over fueling.
Connect it to a 3 mm minimum ID pipe directly to the intake manifold.

The
most popular one is the GM replacement sensor that comes in 1Bar and 3Bar
versions. It may also be soldered to a more popular connector. Ensure that
the wiring for this sensor is correct. Old versions of the 3Bar was 12V
but the new batch is all 5Volt.

The
second Map sensor is the Motorola MPX4…AP series. It is a bit more
expensive but more freely available. These are 5V sensors and come in 1Bar
and 2.5Bar arrangements. The connector is soldered on in-house and is
different to the first one to the pin configurations. If you have a sensor
with leads, connect the matching colors to each other.

Then
there is also a surface mount sensor which is 5V and comes in 1Bar and
3Bar. These ones will be mounted on the unit’s PCB or a separate housing.
No further info available at this time.

You
can also use existing map sensors of various engine manufacturers. Ensure
that you have the correct wiring and calibration.

4.7 Idle Control

The ECU does idle
control. The settings for valve and
stepper motors are different. Valve control is done with the ECU GP outputs
while stepper motors require a separate stepper control unit.

For 2 wire idle
valves found on most cars, the GP 2 output will be pulse-width controlled and
no separate hardware is required. Only a free wheel diode that goes over the
two pins must be connected. See the drawing supplied on your CD. There is a
black 1N4007 diode supplied in each ECU pack.

Some 3 Wire valves
require GP 1 & 2 outputs. These valves have on coil to open and one to
close. It does not have a spring system. These ones can also be done with the
ECU. Normally BMW.

Other 3 wire
valves have a spring which keeps it in a certain position. The one coil opens
the valve completely and on coil closes it completely. Here a resistor is connected
to the closing coil and ground to close the valve to reach minimum idling RPM’s
when hot. Then only GP out 2 is used on the coil that opens the valve. Normally
Toyota.

There is also a
back feed Diode required in the ignition supply wire of the 12 Way connector.
See drawing below.

4.7.1 Stepper Idle Valve Computer

This stepper
controller has two types for the two different motors. Bi-Polar Type 2, and 4
Coil Common Type 1.

This controller is
connected to ignition 12V (Red wire), earth (Black wire) and the ECU GP output
2 (Green wire). Only on the Lexus it is connected to the green RPM output. Then
it has 5 wires which connect to the stepper motor of the idle valve. Note
however the screen wire in the cable is connected to 12V ignition and not earth
as normal. This is due that there are only 4 wires in the cable. See the
different wiring diagrams on the CD.

On the idle
controller is a LED. When the ignition is switched on the led will be on for a
second. If the engine is started the LED will flash indicating that the ECU
request for the idle valve to open or close. As soon as the set RPM in the PC
software is reached the LED will stop flashing and go off. If RPM’s are more or
less than the set point, the LED will flash again. Note that the TPS must be
calibrated and the throttle must be in closed position (0%) for idle control to
be activated. If the RPM’s fall below the set point, the ECU will pick it up
immediately regardless of the TPS setting.

4.7.2 Throttle Adjustment

The throttle must
be adjusted mechanically to let the engine idle at 100 RPM’s below the Idle RPM at normal operating
temperature. This will ensure that the engine always have enough air to keep
idling to a minimum, even if the idle valve is completely shut. To do this you
can blank the air intake to the idle valve or stepper motor off and adjust the
mechanical position of the throttle. Or you can enter a value of 100 RPM below
mechanical idle RPM into the PC software at Idle
RPM so that the idle control does not interfere with adjustments. Then
adjust the throttle to the desired value. Reset the PC Idle RPM to the normal RPM’s again. The engine must be hot and in
neutral or park for this adjustment.

4.8 Launch
Control

Launch control is
standard software on all 3 ECU boxes. The buttons however can be bought
optional or made up by you. The launch limits consist of an additional rev
limiter which is lower than the engine protection limiter. It will retard the
timing to a value near TDC and will enrich the fuel mixture by a set
percentage. These three values can be set to the customer specs. If launch is
activated in the software, it can operate on 2 ways:

1.
If only the dashboard button is connected, it
activates while the button is pressed and deactivate when the button is
released. The launch limits are only applied above 4000 RPM’s.

2.
If the clutch pedal switch with the 10K
resistor is used with the dashboard switch, the clutch is first pressed to the
floor activating the switch. Then the dashboard switch is pressed latching the
launch software. If the revs go above 4000, the launch limits are activated.
The moment the clutch is released, launch control is deactivated and normal
management presumes.

4.8 Micro Fueling

This feature
allows the user to use dual injectors on an engine. Only the primary injectors
operate at low load to ease tuning in town driving or low throttle driving
where on high load the both the primary and secondary injectors operates to add
more fuel for racing or full throttle driving. The TITAN ECU has only 6
drivers, so to activate this feature it uses one of the GP outputs to switch
the power to the secondary injectors on or off. This is done with an external
Mosfet which is purchased separately from the agent. The secondary injector
negatives are connected with the primary injector negatives on the same
cylinders. Note there is a difference in wiring between low and high impedance
injectors. See also the different Software Settings further in the manual. Below is a sample of
the wiring required for high and low impedance injectors with the Mosfet
Switch. See your CD or contact your agent for more drawings on other engine
combinations if required.

4.10 Additional Wiring

Connect all wires
as per wiring schematic and according to the labels on the wiring harness.

You need to get an
ignition positive from the cars existing harness and connect that to the 2 RED
power wires of the ECU (one on each of the two connectors), the gearbox
computer (12 way connector) and the Idle computer. Make sure this is Ignition
power and not accessory power. Also ensure that there is no voltage drop when
the system runs.

Connect the green
wire to the green wire of the Idle Control computer and the Gearbox computer.

Rev-Counters

Electronic Rev Counters must be connected to the green rev counter output
wire of the ECU on the 10 way connector. You may also need to add a pull-up
resistor to get it to work correctly. See the drawing below. Also see the
software setup for this output. Note that only on the Lexus V8 Firmware the rev
counter works differently than other programs.

Coil Negative Rev Counters may not work with the above connection
because they require a spike rather than a ground signal. In this case the rev
counter must be connected to coil negative. Then you will have to calibrate the
rev counter or try the circuit below. This circuit will generate a spike for
the rev counter and will work in most cases. If it still does not work try a
220 Ohm 5 watt resistor instead.

Connect the yellow
TPS output wire to the yellow wire from the gearbox computer.

Run a 2.5mm2
wire from each of the supplied relays pin 30 directly to the battery positive.
Do not common these wires. Now run a 2.5mm2 from pin 87 to the fuse
box and then to the injector positives. Do not connect anything else on this
relay or it may lean out fuel mixtures. You may connect the 4 wire Lambda to
this relay as it has a consistent power. Run a 2.5mm2 to the fuel
pump and coil positives. Use separate fuses in this wire for protection in
component failure and to protect the ECU. See the wiring diagrams.

Now check each
wiring circuit with your multi meter as described in the test procedure for
each engine on the two harness connectors. This will indicate faults in the
wiring that may destroy the ECU.

Ensure that the
ECU is grounded properly as per specification. Now only connect the 12 way
harness and proceed with the PC setup. After you have wired everything in as
per the schematics, you may now connect your battery’s positive terminal and
turn your ECU on. Again follow the start-up procedure carefully.

Pin References for the ECU

The ECU has two
connectors for all wiring combinations. A 12 way connector for power and
sensors, and a 10 way connector for all the outputs to the engine. Note that
the ECU connects to ground via the aluminum enclosure. It is not necessary that
all the pins will be used. There may be additional wires on the drawing that
cannot be found on the pin descriptions. This is due to other connections in the
harness to ease with installation. The pin-outs are just for reference. Please
follow the labels on the wiring harness when connecting up your new ECU. All
wires are grouped together for ease of installation.

Figure shows a
view of the 12pin Female Plug on the ECU harness. Note the retaining clip on
top and how the pins are numbered.

12 way connector

1

Air temp sensor

2

TPS sensor

3

MAP sensor

4

Signal Ground

5

Sensor2 Supply +

6

Sensor1 Supply +

7

Water Temp Sensor

8

Lambda Sensor

9

5 Volt Output

10

12V Ignition In

11

Sensor 2 Input

12

Sensor 1 Input

Figure shows a
view of the 10pin Female Plug on the ECU harness. Note the retaining clip on
top and how the pins are numbered.

10 way connector

1

Coil 2 -

2

Injector 3 -   (Coil 4 -)

3

Injector 1 -

4

Fuel Relay -

5

Gen Purpose Out 1 -

6

Coil 1 -

7

Coil 3 -         (Injector 4 -)

8

Injector 2 -

9

RPM Trigger Output to ground

10

Gen Purpose Out 2 -

4.11 Coil Selection

It is important to
know which coil is on the engine as a faulty setting here may destroy the ECU
driver or coil. Always start the ECU with a disconnected 10Way connecter till
you set the Trigger Level Output to the correct
setting. Also start with a 5A Fuse which will blow quickly if you have the
setting wrong.

4.11.1 Basic Coil

This ignition is
designed to use electronic as well as external ballast resistor coils as is
found with the point-condenser systems. This point-condenser coil has a
resistance of +/- 1.5 ohm and a charge-time of 7 m/s. Do not connect the
ballast resistor.

Electronic
ignition coils were designed for variable dwell systems to improve spark at
high Rpm’s. They have a resistance of +/- 0.8 ohm It will improve over the
spark of the ballast coil with this ignition especially for V8’engines. It has
a charge time of 3 to 5 m/s.

Another coil on
the market has the ballast resistor built in (+/- 3.5 ohm). This will give a
poor spark at cold starting or high Rpm’s. These coils are not recommended for
performance engines and 6 Cylinders or higher. These coils have a charge time
of 9 m/s. For all of the above coils the ECU Trigger Level Output must be set to internal so that the ECU charge
the coil with a negative pulse and fire it with a positive going pulse.

4.11.2 Composite Coil

These hard resin coils
consist of single, wasted spark combination or multi coils in a single housing,
and some have built in driver electronics. If it has no driver there is usually
a common pin and one pin for each coil. To measure this coil put the meter on
Ohms and measure all the points. You should get a 0. 8Ohm reading for each
coil. If you measure over the two coils it should read 1.6 Ohm. For all of the
above coils the ECU Trigger Level Output must be set to internal so that the ECU charge
the coil with a negative pulse and fire it with a positive going pulse.

4.11.3 Electronic Coils

If you measure
high resistances or open circuit, then the coils has an internal driver. These
coils normally have a positive, ground and trigger input for each coil. These
coils are normally charged with a positive pulse and fired with a negative
going pulse. Using these coils with the ECU requires an external resistor
between the trigger and positive of the coil. The reason is that the ECU only gives
a ground signal for normal coils. For all these coils the ECU Trigger Level Output must be set to external so that the ECU charge the coil with a positive
pulse and fire it with a negative going pulse. These Coils with internal drivers can be connected
two coils per output. You must add a pull-up resistor per driver and make sure
on the firing order that these coils move up en down simultaneously.

4.12 Setting Timing

4.12.1 Setting Distributor Timing and Rotor Fazing

This setup for
distributors with Rotors requires 2 settings. One is to align the rotor with
actual crank degrees and the other is to align the software with the sensor
timing.

Rotor Fazing

Rotor fazing is a mechanical
adjustment to ensure that the Rotor is under the relevant high tension pole
during the spark generation. If it is not under the pole, the spark will have
to jump the gap in the distributor which will cause less energy at the spark
plug. It will also generate interference on the sensors causing erratic
misfires. As most cars operate between 14 and 36 °BTDC you must ensure that the
Rotor is under the pole during this span. That is why we use 25° to place the
Rotor under the Pole. Then it can advance a total of 11 degrees, up to 36° or
retard a total of 11 degrees, down to 14° and still have contact between rotor
and pole. See Illustration below:

Rotate the engine
so that the static timing mark is at 25° BTDC. If the marks does not go that
far take the 12° mark and multiply the distance on the pulley or plate by 2. If
you are not sure if No 1 piston is on fire, unscrew No 1 plug and blow through a
rubber pipe into the cylinder. If no air can be blown into the cylinder then
both valves are closed and the piston is on fire stroke. Otherwise turn the
crank on full turn to the timing mark and check again. Put the distributor into
the hole and ensure that the rotor is positioned under plug wire of piston No
1. If the distributor does not want to go in completely, it may be stuck on the
oil pump shaft. Rotate the engine it a bit holding the distributor in place
till it mates with the oil pump. Also note that the rotor rotates in one
direction as it is inserted. Take it back to the 25° mark. Now turn the
distributor till the rotor is exactly under the no 1 pole. Lock the distributor
nut properly and ensure that wiring is tied in the correct manner to prevent
damage or strain due to engine movement. NB! Do not adjust the distributor again.
Rotor fazing is now complete.

Software Sensor Timing

This setting,
Timing Sensor °BTDC, will tell the software at what degrees the sensor is
situated. The ECU will calculate from this position where to advance or retard
the timing to ensure that the Map Timing is accurate with the actual timing on
the engine.

In the PC software
you must enter the Timing Sensor °BTDC for the specific distributor. If it has
a standard magnetic pickup it usually is around 24 ° BTDC. Note however that if
you are converting your distributor then a 0 or 1 ° fazing for the sensor is
preferable.

To check if this
setting is correct disconnect the injector fuses and crank the engine with a
timing light. See if the light flahes between 5 and 10°. If not adjust the
value till it does.

Now you can start
the engine. It should start easy and run smoothly. Should the engine tend to
stop during cranking, it means the timing is too fast. Increase this value 10°
at a time. Should it sound as if it wants to start but dies, it means that the
timing may be too slow. Decrease this value 10° at a time. If there is a
misfire of any sort, stop immediately and do faultfinding. It may be that the
magnetic pickup is wired wrong causing the spark to fire between the poles. If
it is a hall or optic sensor the timing edge may be wrong. See edge setting
under active sensors.

After the engine
has started, check with a timing light that your engine timing correlates with
the software timing block. If not adjust the Timing Sensor °BTDC value until
they match. Now perform a normal timing adjustment according to the PC timing
on the timing maps. Note that adjustable timing light can be misleading on
wasted sparks system. Divide the timing light degrees by two.

Listen for spark in the distributor cap. If
you hear a spark then the fazing degrees are wrong and there is a gap between
rotor and pole. An old cap with a hole across one of the poles can be used.
Flash the timing light into the hole to check for correct rotor position.
Incorrect fazing will also hang the Laptop and freeze the PC Software.

4.12.2 Setting Crank Trigger Timing

This trigger
consist of a single sensor and some form of crank gear like 60-2 or 36-1 etc.
this setup requires 2 kinds of settings. One is on which teeth after the slot,
TDC is located. The other setting is a fine tune setting between the teeth to
correctly align software timing with engine timing.

If you can see the
gear put the engine on TDC. Count the number of teeth from the sensor to the
slot in a clockwise direction. Enter this number of teeth in the software under
Gear Teeth. Enter 0 in Timing Sensor °BTDC field. The car should start. Check
with the timing light to see if the software timing correlates with the engine
timing. If the difference is less than the tooth pitch degrees, adjustments can
be made on the Timing Sensor °BTDC field. Otherwise add or subtract one tooth
and try again. If you can’t see the gear you can enter speculative values in
Gear Teeth. Disconnect the injector fuses and crank with a timing light. Start
with 4 and increase 2 at a time. When it flashes around 10 degrees save and
proceed with starting.

If a magnetic
pickup is used, ensure that the positive and negative of the magnetic sensor
are correct. If they are connected wrong way round, the timing will retard
instead of advance and the fazing will be wrong. Sometimes the engine will
start but it may not rev up. You can also see this on the software if the rpm
bar jumps erratic between two values not next to each other.

In some cases the
teeth count between the slot and the sensor on TDC may be larger than crank
fire pitch. The crank fire pitch can be calculated by the total teeth of the
gear, (missing ones included) multiply by 2 divide by the no of cylinders. This
means that a 60-2 gear for a 6 cylinder engine is 60*2/6=20.

If the teeth
between the sensor and slot is ex 25 then you set it at 5 (teeth – pitch) and
change the coil wires in sequence. Coil 1 connects to driver 2, coil 2 connects
to driver 3 and coil 3 connects to driver 1.

If the teeth
between the sensor and slot is ex 47 then you set it at 7 (teeth – 2*pitch) and
change the coil wires in sequence. Coil 1 connects to driver 3, coil 2 connects
to driver 1 and coil 3 connects to driver 2.
For more info in this please see the drawings supplied on CD.

The trigger point of the sensor is the centre of the sensor to the last
edge of the tooth or trigger plate (Trigger Edge 0°). On a 36-1 gear the pitch
is 10 degrees. To ajust the Timing BTDC block you can guess a setting for the
centre of the pickup between the trigger edges of the adjacent teeth. See the
sketch below. When the engine is running, adjust it till the software correlates
with the timing light.

4.12.3 Setting Toyota 24Pulse + TDC Timing

This is a standard
setup for most Toyota engines. There is a 24 teeth gear and a TDC reference
signal. If it has a Rotor and single coil, first do rotor fazing as described
above under Rotor
Fazing.
Then put the engine on the TDC mark. Now count the number of teeth that passed
the 24 Pulse-sensor since the TDC teeth past the TDC Pulse-sensor. If it is
difficult to understand rotate the engine anti clockwise until the TDC tooth is
across the sensor. Now turn the engine clockwise and count the number of teeth
that passes the 24 Pulse-sensor, till you reach TDC mark. Enter this value in
Gear Teeth. To check if this setting is correct disconnect the injector fuses
and crank the engine with a timing light. See if the light flashes between 5
and 10°. If not adjust the value till it does.

The car should
start. Check with the timing light to see if the software timing correlates
with the engine timing. If the difference is less than 30°, adjustments can be
made on the Timing Sensor °BTDC field. Otherwise add or subtract one tooth and
try again. If you can’t see the gear you can enter speculative values in Gear
Teeth. If the engine stops suddenly when cranking, it means that timing is too
fast. Increase the number of teeth and try again.

If the engine has
coil packs then rotor fazing is no problem. If the trigger system can be
adjusted, put the engine on TDC and align the TDC mark on the dizzy, up with
the TDC sensor. Enter 1 in Gear Teeth and 0 in Timing Sensor °BTDC field. Start
the engine and adjust the dizzy for timing alignment of the software and
engine. If the trigger system cannot be adjusted, put the TDC trigger in line
with the sensor and turn the engine clockwise to TDC marks as the above setup
procedure of counting the teeth and fine adjustment.

Ensure that the
positives and negatives of the magnetic sensors are correct. If they are
connected wrong way round, the timing will retard instead of advance and the
fazing will be wrong. Sometimes the engine will start but it may not rev up. In
some cases the teeth count may be larger than crank fire pitch. Then you may
have to change the coil pack wiring sequence to remedy the problem.

Sometimes the gap
in the pickup and rotor needs to be smaller. Adjust it so that it just clears
the rotor without touching. In case of 2 TDC pickups, they can be put in
parallel as on the drawing. In some cases the signal may be week and requires
you to disconnect 1 of the pickups.

4.12.4 Setting Nissan Optic Slots Timing

This is a standard
setup for most Nissan engines. There is a metal disk with 360 fine slots and
large slots equaling the number of cylinders. It has two optical sensors. The
ECU uses only the large slots. If the system has a rotor and single coil, do
the setup and rotor fazing as described above under Rotor
Fazing.

If it has coil
packs put the engine on the TDC marks. Adjust the dizzy to be in the middle of
the fasten bolt and slot grove. Now adjustments can be made on the Timing
Sensor °BTDC field to get the engine to start. Remember that under active
sensors set the trigger level to positive edge. To check if this setting is
correct disconnect the injector fuses and crank the engine with a timing light.
See if the light flashes between 5 and 10°. If not adjust the value till it
does.

If the engine
stops during cranking it means the timing is too fast. Increase the value and
try again. Once the engine starts, check with the timing light and fine tune
this value so that the ECU timing correlates to the real timing. If the engine
back-fires the coil sequence may be incorrect. Check the wiring diagram and
change the wiring on the coil packs.

4.13 Fuel Supply

This is not really
part of the ECU but it is a vital system which is the cause for many problems
in the operation of the ECU. Please take time to ensure this system is properly
set up as the ECU has no control over it. The only indication for problems here
is the Lambda sensor. If the fuel pressure drops, or becomes erratic due to air
in the system, the Lambda value will go lean. This will cause power loss and
slight backfires which may sound like timing.

When converting an
engine from a carburetor normally present a problem. The pipe from the tank is
too thin and fuel must be sucked from the top. Fuel injection systems are
normally gravity feed and have poor suction capabilities. This system requires
a lot of fuel to maintain a constant pressure of 2.5 to 3.5bar on the fuel
rail. A lot of fuel is returned to the tank via the pressure regulator.

This can be
partially overcome by teeing the return line in before the pump instead of
letting it go to the tank. You still have the suction problem and if there is
air in the system, it has to go out via the injectors.

If the pump has
enough pressure but lacks in flow rate, it will cause the fuel mix to go lean
and loose power under heavy load conditions at high RPM’s.

These pumps get damaged
by dirt, water and air bubbles. It is good practice to put an inline filter in
front of the pump to ensure that dirt does not go through the pump. This will
also indicate if air is in the system as most filters are see-through.

Do not install the
pump next to the exhaust for it will run too hot.

Ensure that return
lines are thick enough.

5. Software Installation

5.1 PC Software installation

The PC Software
does not require installation. It is an executable file and can run from any
memory medium. See PC Requirements however. The
software will create an ecu.ini file in the same directory
where your software is run from. This is to save your preferred settings in the
software. When you start the software for the first time, it will prompt you to
accept the Terms & Conditions as laid out by Spitronics Micro Ignitions cc.
Read these conditions carefully and if you agree you may except the terms and
continue to work on the ECU. If you press cancel the program will close. If you
load a new manual it will ask you to agree to the terms and conditions again.

There is also an
html help file. When you click on manual button,

guide the software to this file and then you can access the
manual from the PC software.

5.2 Spitronics USB driver installation

Go to the
Spitronics USB Driver file on the CD. Activate the USB Setup.exe file. The
software will install automatically. It may take a couple of minutes on slower
laptops. Now insert the USB cable into the PC. Windows will detect the cable
and install the driver for it. If it does not connect to the ECU see Changing the Com Port Settings below.

5.3 RS232 Computer to ECU interface

The ECU
communicates to the computer via the serial RS232 interface. It operates at
19200 baud rate. See the drawing for connection diagrams.

Communication can
also be achieved by USB via a USB to RS232 converter cable. Ensure that the
drivers for the cable are installed according to manufacturer specifications.
When using other than Spitronics cables, you have to break out pin 1,4,6,7,8
& 9 as they are used for other inputs and outputs such as for  programming the ECU as well as the launch
control buttons. See drawing. On a serial connector provision is made for
hardware handshaking on printers etc. It is not used for these management
electronics. The Spitronics USB converter you do not have to break out the pins
as they are internally disconnected.

Note: These cables are optional and can be
bought from the agent, computer shop or made in some cases.

6. Software Operation and Setup

6.1 Button Description

6.2 Connecting a PC to the ECU

6.3 Changing the USB Comport in Windows Device Manager

6.4 Memory operation of the ECU

6.5 Selecting Different Pages in the
Software

This chapter will
explain how the software operates and how to set it up for your specific engine.
The ECU comes preconfigured so that you don’t have to go through the tedious
process of configuring all the different parameters, to get the engine to start.
There are however certain checks on different engines to get the ECU to work
properly. Failure to do this may damage the ECU or components of the engine
which will solely be your responsibility. Refer to the drawings of your model
to see if your engine has a special setup procedure.

6.1 Button Description

Open a saved MAP from the hard disk into the
PC Software.

Save MAP data from the PC or ECU on the hard
disk.

Print MAPS to a printer.

Read the data MAP from the ECU into the PC
Software.

Write to ECU – Write de ECU data into the
Flash memory to make the changes permanent.

Lock the Data Maps and change the Customer
Code.

Enable or disable the mouse pad for
adjustments on the tuning graphs.

Information on the Developer and the ECU.

Quit the Program.

Do adjustment only where the real-timer bars
are on the different graphs.

ECU is Online and can be adjusted.

ECU is offline.

6.2 Connecting a PC to the ECU

Connect the
optional serial cable or RS232 converter cable to your laptop or PC and to the
ECU. (Remember to break out pins 1,4,6,7,8 & 9  if it is not a Spitronics USB converter)

Switch the
ignition on and check if the yellow LED is on. Open the ECU PC software. If the
ECU is connected the PC software will pick it up on the Com port automatically
and connect to it. If it did not, check your connections again. Note that if
you use the USB converter cable, that the com port must be Com 10 or lower. You
can correct this in the Device
Manager
of Windows XP. You are now ready to begin with the tuning on your ECU.

6.3 Changing the USB Comport in Windows
Device Manager

One some laptops,
Windows will install the USB on a Com Port higher than 10. This is a Windows
driver problem and then the Com Port is not detected automatically. You need to
change it to lower than 11. Follow these steps:

1.
Left click on Start (left bottom)

2.
Right Click on My Computer (or in desktop My
Computer)

3.
Click on Properties

4.
Click on Hardware

5.
Click on Device Manager

6.
Click on Ports (Com & LPT)

7.
Right Click on Prolific USB to Serial Com
Port (Com 11or higher)

8.
Click on Properties

9.
Click on Port Settings

10.
Click on Advance

11.
Select a Com Port lower than 11 (if all is in
use choose 5 to 10 and press OK)

12.
Click on OK and close

6.4 Memory operation of the ECU

The figure below
indicates how the ECU operates with temporary and permanent memory. When the
ECU is powered up, it will take the data maps from the permanent FLASH memory
and save it in the temporary RAM memory. This RAM is used by the processor for
operation and the Laptop for tuning. When the user changes the maps, the processor
will immediately start working with the new data changed in the RAM.

6.4.1 Saving data in the ECU

Once the user is
satisfied with his changes he must save his changes in the FLASH memory in the
ECU, by pressing the Write to ECU

button. Now the data is
stored permanently and the ignition can be switched off. If he does not save
this data in flash, all his changes will be lost when the ECU power is switched
off. When data is written to the ECU flash, the processor will cut-out for
about half a second causing the engine to lose power. This will not happen
during normal tuning. This is done so that the user knows his data is saved.

The laptop memory
will have the same information in its RAM when the maps are uploaded after the
PC software is started. If the car is switched off without saving, the operator
may switch the ECU on and press the Write
to ECU button. This will save the copy of the data in the Laptop RAM into
the ECU FLASH memory. This is also how you can save your map in another ECU if
you don’t want to save to hard disk first.

6.4.2 Saving a Map to the PC

The user may also
save the Laptop RAM or ECU data to the hard disk so that the maps maybe
recalled later or if different settings are desired. This is done by pressing
the Save Settings

button.

The user has the
option of saving the Ram data on the PC or the real-time ECU data. This feature
is useful if you want to change Map data offline. Simply open a Map file, edit
it and save it back to the hard disk.

6.4.3 Loading a Map from the hard disk onto an ECU

First connect to
the ECU. Then press the Open file

button. Then press the Write to ECU

button. The data will
now be written into the ECU flash memory. Note that the serial number is not
written in the process although for this session the serial number is the same
as the Map serial number. Once the software is closed and restarted, the ECU
serial number will be displayed. Also note that if an incorrect version of the
map is loaded, a check box will warn you of it.

6.4.4 Locking a MAP on the ECU

The tuning MAP on
the ECU can be locked to prevent other users from copying it or changing settings
on it. This feature is to let engine builders install protection settings on
the ECU for guarantee purposes. Note however that you can overwrite the code by
loading another MAP onto the ECU. This would however indicate to the agent that
tampering took place and may void guarantees.

The Agent has the
option of changing the customer code for his reference. He can protect it with
a password and leave the maps open. It would mean however that the customer
cannot lock his own maps under the code as they use the same code for
protection.

Press the

button and enter a
password. Select which protection is required. Press Lock, Exit and then press
the Write to ECU

button to save it to
the Flash memory.

To change the
Customer code you need to put in the Agent Password which is only supplied to
the agents by the manufacturer.

To unlock the ECU
enter the same password that you used to lock the Code. If you press the Write to ECU

button, the maps will
stay open.

6.5 Selecting Different Pages in the
Software

6.6 Start  (F1)

6.7 Setup  (F2)

6.8 Maps  (F3)

6.9 Logger  (F4)

6.10 Manual  (F5)

Press
on any of these buttons to activate the different pages in the software. By
pressing the alt button you will see the hot keys for these buttons.

The function keys are easier to press during driving.

6.6 Start
(F1)

This is where the
program will start the first time. On this page all the action events is logged
for information. It will also display the ECU information of the current ECU. Take note of the Warning as it is important and
binding by Law. See the Terms & Conditions on our website.

6.6.1 Version Numbers

The designer
reserve the right to do changes to existing designs and harnesses as he keeps
on developing software and hardware. The market change all the time as new
ideas submerges. The ECU has a version number system so that the user knows
which drawings, and also which Tuning MAP goes with which ECU firmware. There
is also a document on the CD which explains about the hardware and software
changes made between different versions (TITAN Version Changes.pdf).

ECU Version will indicate the product namely TITAN
and which model is connected. Models are Standard, Intermediate or Advance.

Firmware Release is the hardware,
firmware and software release information. This is very important as it must
coincide with the PC software. It is also written with a permanent marker on
the enclosure but this my rub off during installation.

2.2.1.A In the sample means: PC Software Ver. 2,
Hardware number 2 (Titan), Protocol Ver.1, Firmware Ver. A.

The
PC software also has a version number in the name part of the file or on the
Top information bar. Keep older versions for old ECU versions. ECU firmware can
be upgraded by an agent to accommodate changes in the latest PC software.
Version 2.1 ECU must be programmed with Ver. 2.1 PC software. Older version
software than Ver.1.13 will open and change parameters but will not be able to
save the data. From Ver.1.14 software will also warn if incompatible ECU
firmware is used. The alphabetic number will indicate later version changes in
the ECU or PC but does not change the protocol of Ver.2.1 software. This may
differ from software to ECU but does not matter.

Program is a number given to each ECU firmware
program to identify them apart. Behind the number is a short explanation of the
type of program On the CD a list of these numbers available (Program
Numbers.txt).

Serial Number is keep track of
each ECU sold. It is also engraved on the enclosure of the ECU. The number for
ex PP-PP-999999-15 means as follows:

PP – Agent which
this unit was distributed to

PP – Customer
which this unit was sold to – this can be changed by the Agent for his own
reference.

999999 – serial
number

15 – model
function no

ECU model function
numbers are as follows:

3          Standard ECU

11        Intermediate ECU

15        Advance ECU

6.7 Setup
(F2)

6.7.1 Engine Setup (Alt 1)

6.7.2 Timing Setup  (Alt 2)

6.7.3 Fuel Setup  (Alt 3)

6.7.4 Sensor Setup  (Alt 4)

6.7.5 Turbo Setup (Alt 4)

6.7.6 Real-Time Data and Bars

Click on the setup
tab to get information on the configuration of your engine. Most parameters are
being preset before the ECU has been shipped. Ensure that these settings are
correct as some may damage components on your engine or the ECU itself.

Click on of these
icons to adjust different settings in the setup page. Activate the Hot-Key by
pressing the Alt button plus the correlating number as in the icon block.

6.7.1 Engine Setup (Alt 1)

6.7.1.1 Map Information

The Map
information screen contains info for which customer and vehicle the maps have
been done. It saves in the ECU and PC. This is used to identify different
tuning maps from each other. It does not affect any tuning on the engine.

6.7.1.2 Engine Configuration

Cylinders – 2,3,4,5,6,8 or 12 cylinders can be typed
in this block, depending on the engine specific ECU. Most ECU firmware will
over-write this block at start-up.

Map sensor – adjusts the map sensor range that you use
e.g.  1bar = 10, 2.5bar=25. If you have a
2.5 bar sensor but you only use 0.5 bar boost, enter a value of 15 for 1.5 bar
and calibrate the MAP sensor so that you are able to make full use of the
complete vacuum range for correction adjustment. See Active sensors and Calibrate
further in the manual. These changes only take effect when you Exit and start the PC software again.

RPM range – set the rpm maximum RPM that you want to
map the ECU at e.g. redline starts at 6500rpm add 500rpm and type in 7000 for
the rpm range. These changes only take effect when you Exit and start the PC software again.

6.7.1.3 Engine Configuration

Spare – Reserved for future use.

RPM limiter – This will set the maximum rpm for the soft
engine limiter in 100 RPM intervals. The ECU will first retard the timing in
three stages and then after 300 RPM over this limit will cut the fuel
completely. The spark however will not be cut. This will prevent fuel from
entering the exhaust and backfire there.

6.7.1.4 General Purpose Outputs

There are two
general outputs to configure for several different functions. These outputs can
be configured to use one of the analogue signals and switch a relay on or off
when certain limits have been reached.

Example:  RPM for a shift light, RPM or TPS to switch
nitrous on, water temp to control a fan relay. Also set the appropriate values
in the min and max blocks e.g. shift light – min 5000 max 8000. The light will
switch on at 5100 RPM’s and switch off at 8100 RPM’s. If the min value is
smaller than the max value, the relay will switch on between the limits. If the
minimum value is higher than the max value, the relay will switch off between
the limits. Note also that the relay will switch on at the value + 1 increment
and off at the value – 1 increment. Thus for example if you select RPM and set
4000 and 5500, it means that the relay will switch on at 4100 and 5400 and off
at 3900 and 5600 rpm’s.

Note that on GP 1
the water temp works different from all the other logics. The output will go on
when Max + 1 is reached and go off when Min – 1 is reached. This is to allow
the tuner to set a dead band value for the fan to start and stop. This will
prevent the fan from start and stopping too much.

Note! The idle control also uses these outputs.
For idle control the setting must be set to Idle
Control and then the parameters will be set on the Idle Control field. The Min and Max values does not affect the idle
control operation. They are not used.

Note! The Micro Fueling can also use these outputs
and the take priority. If it is activated there the selection will be off and
the values ignored. The Min and Max values does not affect the Micro Fueling operation.
They are not used.

Note! Only on the Lexus program GP 2 can be used
for RPM calibration for different rev counters. This is due to the fact that
the gearbox and idle control use the normal RPM output. Set it to RPM and then
set the Pulses / RPM for the required rev counter.

The following
values need to be set for the different conditions:

RPM – RPM/min 100rpm increments

Lambda – voltage 0.01volt increments

Vacuum – pressure 10 Kpa increments

Water temp – degrees at 1°C increments

TPS – percentage at 1% increments

Air temp – Degrees at 1°C increments

Idle Control – if idle control
is used

This block is for
Rev counter calibration. You can adjust the number of pulses per revolution
which is handy for engine conversions.

6.7.2 Timing Setup  (Alt 2)

6.7.2.1 Timing Configuration

Maximum Timing – this is the max
timing allowed by all the timing maps combined.

Coil time – 2ms to 5ms. This is the maximum
charge time that the user can select. The ECU will vary the charge time
automatically according to vacuum load from 2ms to the user selected value. If
the ECU heats up it is a result of too large charge times. 3.5 is a preferred
starting value.

Rotary Trailing Degrees – set the
trailing timing for rotary engines

Low / High Vacuum Timing Split – this sets the
RPM split between the Low & High Vacuum Timing maps.

6.7.2.2 Crank Angle Sensor

Gear Teeth – set the amount of teeth to align the crank
sensor with ignition timing. Refer to the installation section “Setting Crank
Trigger Timing”

Timing sensor °BTDC – set the
correction factor here to line timing up with timing light. Refer to the
installation section “Setting Distributor Timing and Setting Crank
Trigger Timing”

6.7.2.3 Coil Combination

Coil combination – select the type
of coil combinations you are using if not preset. On most ECU’s this is
determined by the firmware loaded into it and cannot be adjustable.

Two Stroke – this will select 2 or 4 stroke to correct
injector % indication bar. It will be forced on or off from the ECU. If it is
on 4 stroke the injector time is calculated over 2 RPM’s while on 2 stroke the
injector time is calculated over 1 RPM. If you have an engine that does not rev
high and the injectors is too small you may put it on 2 stroke to double the
injector time. Note however the injector % during tuning not to go over 100% as
this will occur at lower RPM.

6.7.2.4 Coil Driver Trigger Level

Coil Driver Trigger Level– this setting is
very important and a mistake here can damage the ECU or Coil. If you have a
coil with no driver in the coil use Internal
setting. If you use a TP100 or have an internal driver in the coil use External setting with a pull-up
resistor. To change this setting, click on internal or external and type in
YES. Then save

the data to the ECU.

NB! This setting must
be done before the ECU 10 way connector is connected.

6.7.3 Fuel Setup (Alt 3)

6.7.3.1 Fuel Configuration

Start enrichment – Set a value in milliseconds
here for start enrichment. This enrichment is added to the calculated fuel when
the engine is started. It will then be phased out in a certain RPM’s.

Max Fueling – Set a value in milliseconds here for the
max amount of fuel allowed to your engine during running. This value is
calculated as the time it takes for 2 crank revolutions at maximum RPM. The
example is an engine doing 6500 RPM max. For Two-stroke engines this value will
be half.

Start Prime Pulse – This setting in
milliseconds is the initial fuel that will be squirted in the engine to ease
starting. It is only injected once the engine is cranked and not when the
ignition is switched on. Half of this value will be squirted every time the
fuel pedal is pressed more than 25%. This feature is handy on very cold days
for starting.

Fuel Cut-off - This feature will
cut the fuel supply when the engine is running against compression. This is
useful in town and downhill driving and will save fuel. It will also prevent
flaming in the exhaust during accelerator blip. Fuel Cut-off will only be
activated when both of the following criteria are met. There is a dead band
feature built into these settings to prevent jerking when cruising close to the
parameters.

Fuel Cut-off Vac –The MAP sensor
value must be less than this setting.

Fuel Cut-off RPM –The engine RPM
must be more than this setting.

The TPS value has
no affect on this function.

Idle Cut-off TPS – This setting is
used for the idle control. The ECU will not control the idle motor if the TPS
value is not below this value. It would however raise the RPM whenever the
engine RPM falls below the set point under idle control.

Fuel Calculation – This setting is
to allow the tuner to choose Map sensor calculation or Throttle sensor
calculation. Map sensor is the preferred one as it is a direct representative
of the air intake and load of the engine. It can also compensate for sea level
differences. It is also the easiest way to tune the engine. TPS sensor on the
other hand is used when performance cams are used for racing or if the engine
has separate throttle bodies and no mean engine vacuum chamber. Here the
throttle position in conjunction with RPM is used to calculate engine vacuum.
It is a bit more difficult to tune but can be done. A disadvantage is that it
cannot compensate for sea level correction. The TPS is calibrated as normal to
allow the tuner to make use of the full graph. Then the TPS signal is projected
in the Map sensor’s graphs.

6.7.3.2 Accelerator Pump

The accelerator
pump setting is used to richen the fuel mixture when accelerating to avoid flat
spots or bog. Here you can select not to use it, use either the TPS or MAP or
both.

The Accelerator
pump settings are done for Both the MAP and TPS sensors.

Enrichment % - Use the slider
to richen the fuel by a given percentage when accelerating. A standard is 40 or
50%.

Sensitivity - Set this slider from 1 to 10, starting at
10 for the least sensitive, until you are comfortable with the response you get
out of your acceleration. If the setting is too sensitive (1), then your car
will jerk and over fuel with the slightest movement of the throttle. Tune this
setting from a flat spot side till it’s gone. Otherwise you may over fuel
without knowing it. A standard is 2 to 4.

Max RPM – This is the maximum RPM that the pump
settings will be active. At high RPM you do not need an accelerator pump. A
standard is 1500 to 2000 RPM.

6.7.3.3 Fuel Map

These limits are
used to select between the four RPM fuel correction maps. They are displayed on
the vacuum map as three blue arrows. When the vacuum signal passes these
arrows, a different RPM correction map is used.

The RPM correction
maps are divided in four groups of map values. A low, cruise, high cruise and
high map.

The Low map – this
is the map for low throttle cruising or idle

The Cruise map –
this is the map for normal cruising

The High Cruise
map – this is the map for high throttle cruising

The High map is
used for Wide Open Throttle (WOT) conditions.

6.7.4 Sensor Setup  (Alt 4)

6.7.4.1 Active Sensors

Select the
different sensors that are to be used for your engine. If a sensor is not to be
used, leave the block unchecked. Also make sure the cable for it is properly
isolated as there is power on the leads that could short circuit, damaging the
ECU as a result. Some of the sensors cannot be altered or will be forced on by
the firmware.

The TPS sensor
needs to be calibrated. This is important for idling control, fuel prime and
flood control.

To calibrate the
TPS, click on the Calibrate button.
Click the Reset button. Press the
fuel pedal in completely and press F1.
Release the pedal completely and press F1
again. Click the OK button. Then
click on the Write to ECU

button. When you switch the ECU off and on again, the TPS bar
should indicate 0% when pedal is released and 100% when pedal is pressed.
Remember that idle control will only take place when the TPS is less than the
value set in the Fuel cutoff TPS block.

The water and air
temperature sensors can be calibrated by giving at a percentage offset. Normal
is 100%. If the sensor reads 15% too low at normal operating temperature, a
value of 115% may be entered in the block. Then the sensor value will be
multiplied by 115% lifting the value to the desired display value. These
sensors are not very accurate but are consistent. Then the graph value rather
than the real-time value is used for tuning and GP limits.

The MAP sensor can
be calibrated to accommodate all the different types and to expand the working
range to make full use of the tuning maps. To calibrate the sensor, first set
the Map Sensor Value under Engine Configuration. If you have a
turbo with a 2.5 Bar. map sensor and you are only going to boost 0.8 Bar, set
the scale to 2 Bar and calibrate the map sensor for it. Then you can make full
use of the tuning load sites. Then click on the Write to ECU

button. When you close the ECU software and open again, the
vacuum range should be set on the graph on the fuel maps page. Now calibrate
the sensor according to the height above sea level to accommodate the pressure
of your location. If you are at sea level, calibrate it at 1.0 Bar. Gauteng
Region is around 0.85 Bar. If you increase the calibration value the measured
map sensor value will decrease. When you have the desired value, press Write to ECU

to save it. The Filter
block will average the current reading with the previous reading. This will
create a dampening effect for throttle bodies where the map signal is erratic.
Do not use it if it is not necessary. It will make a flat spot which must then be
tuned out with accelerator pump.

The Trigger and
TDC inputs can be selected on or off. You always require at least the Trigger
on. Then you can click on the arrow next to it to select leading edge (arrow
up) or trailing edge (arrow down). Most triggers are trailing edge but triggers
like the optics of Nissan and a few others are leading edge. On magnetic
pickups this setting is useful if the positive and negative is swopped around.
Then you can click the arrow and the ECU will swop it with software. Note
however that if you load a new map, this setting must be changed afterwards.
Some programs will force these sittings on a certain pattern and even if you
change it, it will keep changing back when you restart the program.

6.7.4.2 Pot Input

The Pot Input can
be used for one of the following. Battery input or use as a launce control. For
a normal car, set it to battery so that battery voltage compensation can be
adjusted. If any other function is selected, a fixed battery voltage of 12.7
volt is forced into the ECU. For racing cars you can use the launce control
function. See Launch
Control
on how to use the launce buttons.

6.7.4.3 Idle Control

Before adjusting
the idle control you must select which type of valve is on the engine. Remember
if it is a stepper control (4 to 6 wire), then you require the external
electronic driver. Also remember to set the relevant GP outputs to Idle Control.

Idle control can
be used for two-wire and non spring loaded three-wire valves. Other idle valves
with stepper motors will use these settings but with external electronics.
Stepper motors will not use the Low Limit and High Limit settings as they keep
their position when there is no signal present. For two-wire idle valve GP
output 2 must be set to Idle Control
and for three wire valves both GP Outputs must be set to Idle Control.

RPM – this setting is the preferred target RPM’s
when the engine is on running temperature. When it is cold the ECU will
automatically increase engine RPM’s with up to 300 RPM’s. This is calculated
according to fuel enrichment on the water compensation map.

Start % – this setting is used to increase the air
intake when the engine is started hot or cold. The ECU will open the idle valve
with this % and when the engine is cold, the ECU will increase this setting
automatically according to the water temp compensation graph.

Response Time Up – this setting
will determine the rate at which the valve opens when the actual RPM’s fall
below the set point in Idle RPM. The
further the RPM fall below the set point, the faster the ECU will open the
valve to let in more air. The less the value, the faster the response time will
be. This setting must prevent the engine from stalling when you switch the
aircon on or put it in drive.

Response Time Down – this setting
will determine the rate at which the valve closes when the actual RPM’s go
above the set point in Idle RPM. The
further the RPM goes above the set point, the faster the ECU will close the
valve to decrease airflow into the engine. This setting is normally more than
the response up to eliminate hunting. The less the value, the faster the
response time will be. This setting must bring over RPM down as fast as
possible without hinting the engine.

Low Limit – this setting will preload the spring in
the valve so that the valve starts to open immediately when the ECU starts
increasing the value. It can also be used to set minimum idling RPM for
throttle valve that closes completely. To set it start with a larger % and
decrease until the desired idling RPM is reached. When you adjusted the value
just accelerate a little so that the ECU can bring the value from the top.

High Limit – this setting is used to limit the maximum
idle RPM’s. No need to open the valve more than necessary. It also allow for
the use of large valves in smaller engines. Just make sure that when the engine
is cold it can lift the RPM up to approx. 1500 RPM. This can be tested by
entering a large Idle RPM value and
see to where the ECU can increase the RPM. You need to lower the RPM first when
you changed the value.

Type Selection – this setting is
used to select which type of idle control valve is on the engine because the
software is different for the two main types.

6.7.4.4 Lambda Configuration

This block is used
to set control parameters for the ECU to use the lambda signal to adjust fuel
enrichment while driving. Note that lambda sensor correction will only operate
when the engine temperature is above 60°C.

The target volts are the set point for the
ECU to achieve during fuel correction. This limit is different for the
different types of fuel and vehicles. For normal pump gas the target voltage
should be around 0.45V (14.7 air/fuel ratio) and for methanol and alcohol
between 0.75V and 0.85V.

Control percentage – This setting
will give the ECU the ability to enrich or lean the fuel amount by this %. This
value will be implemented gradually over 0.2 milli-volt movement away from the
set point. It can be adjusted from 0 to 10% max. A value of 5% is standard.
Always tune the ECU first without the help of the lambda sensor and then
activate it afterwards. This will get the best out of the lambda sensor.

Number of Samples – This setting is
the number of samples from the lambda sensor that the ECU will average out.
Then it will use this average to make adjustments in the fuel enrichment. A
typical a value of 100 for a 4 cylinder and 200 for an 8 cylinder is used. This
setting is to create a damping effect to the ECU do not hunt with this value.
When set correctly the lambda signal should not hunt more than 0.3 volt while
driving.

Lambda Low Limit – This setting is
to set the lowest vacuum setting that the ECU is allowed to adjust the fuel. A
standard here is 0.25 for normal aspirated engines. When the vacuum falls below
a certain value, the mixture has to be richer than 14.7 then the ECU are not
allowed to adjust the fuel. This setting will be indicated as a red bar on the
vacuum map.

Lambda High Limit – This setting is
to set the highest vacuum setting that the ECU is allowed to adjust the fuel. A
standard here is 0.75 for normal aspirated engines. When the vacuum goes above
a certain value at wide open throttle position, the mixture has to be richer than
14.7 then the ECU are not allowed to adjust the fuel. This setting will be
indicated as a green bar on the vacuum map. This means that lambda loop control
is only allowed between the low and high limit settings.

The Lambda bar
indicates from 0 volt to 1 volt from left to right. This bar is used to tuning
the ECU for correct fuel levels under all conditions. The right green side is
richer than 14.7 A/F ratio while the left Red side is the lower than 14.7 A/F
ratio.

6.7.5 Turbo Setup (Alt 4)

6.7.5.1 Launch Control

The launce control
is activated by a push button on the dashboard to activate and a button on the
clutch pedal if automatic latch up operation is required. Once the RPM’s go
over 4000 then these 3 parameters will take effect. The new rev limiter will
cut the fuel and spark. The timing will be retarded and the fuel mixture will
be enriched. The moment the clutch is released, everything will go back to
normal again.

6.7.5.2
Micro Fueling Injector

The TITAN
ECU has the feature to use double injectors on each cylinder. It will use only a
primary injector at low manifold vacuum and when the manifold pressure goes
high, it will add a secondary injector to increase fuel admission to the engine.
This will allow the engine to be tuned more optimized on low and high loads. It
will calculate the difference in injector time interval to compensate for the
extra fuel that will be added by the secondary injector. This method should
make the transmission as smooth as possible.

The Compensation % field is calculated by
the primary injector cc divided by the total injector cc multiply by 100.

Example: Injector
1 = 100cc, Injector 2 = 200cc.

Compensation = Primary
Injector x 100              =   100cc x 100      =   33%

Primary + Secondary
Injectors       100cc + 200cc

The
Compensation field must be set to 0% if this feature is not used in order to
free the GP outputs to other tasks.

If
you are not sure on the injector sizes, first tune the engine with only the
primary injectors. Choose a certain RPM and load on manifold pressure and set
the Vacuum Limit field higher so
that the secondary injectors stay off. Now start with 50% value in the Compensation % field. Reduce the Vacuum Limit so that the secondary
injectors start operating. Adjust the Compensation
% so that the same air fuel ratio is reached. You may need to reduce the
vacuum with the throttle to stop the injectors, while changing the Compensation
%.

The Vacuum Limit field is at which manifold
pressure the transition must take place. This is normally when injector
percentage goes over 65% opening.

The Activation block will activate the
different Hardware
Circuits
to power the extra injectors. If it is on Driver
then separate drivers on the ECU will be used and wired to the separate
injectors. If it is on GP 1 or 2, it
will switch the power to the Injectors via a separate Mosfet Driver. In this
manner the drivers is joined with the primary drivers. Setting GP 1 or 2, will take control of that GP
output above the normal setting in the setup. See the Wiring diagrams for
wiring info.

6.7.5.3 Boost Limiter

The TITAN
ECU has the feature to limit the fuel and spark when the boost goes higher than
this value. This is very useful to protect the engine against boost control
failure. It is also a soft limiter which will only lose power over the limit
value. It can be adjusted in tenths of a bar resolution. The ECU will first
retard the timing in three stages and then after 300 RPM over this limit will
cut the fuel completely. The spark however will not be cut. This will prevent
fuel from entering the exhaust and backfire there.

6.7.6 Real-time Data and Bars

This block
displays the current analogue data as it is measured by the ECU for while the
engine is off or running. These values are used to set and tune the ECU
correctly for all conditions.

Double click on
the gauges to change their appearance between digital and analog.

6.7.6.1 RPM Gauge

RPM - This is the
current engine revolutions.

6.7.6.2 Time Gauge

TIMING - This is
the calculated timing of all the timing maps and will be the same as seen on
the timing light.

6.7.6.3 Vacuum Gauge

VACUUM - This is
the vacuum value from the MAP sensor. It is measured from Absolute vacuum to
atmosphere and also boost pressure for Turbo engines.

6.7.6.4 Lambda Gauge

LAMBDA - This is
the Lambda value read from the Oxygen sensor. It is measured in volts from 0 to
1Volt.  Where 0 Volt is lean, 0.45 Volt
is Stoichometric or 14.7 air-fuel ratio and 1 Volt is rich.

6.7.6.5 Water Air & Battery Indicator Bar

These 3 bars will
indicate water and air temperatures and also the battery voltage as it is
supplied to the ECU.

6.7.6.6 Injector Time and % Indicator Bar

This ms bar
indicates the time in milliseconds that the injectors are opened. For a
4-stroke engine this is measured over 2 revolutions and for a 2-stroke engine
it is measured over 1 revolution.

The % bar
indicates how long the injector is open in relation to the time of 1
revolution. If it indicates 100% it means the injector is open for the whole
revolution and that is the maximum fuel that can go into the engine. A supplier
recommendation is not more than 85%. This will indicate that the injectors are
too small.

6.7.6.7 TPS & POT Indicator Bar

The TPS% bar
indicates the throttle position at that stage. If it is calibrated, it will
indicate from 0 to 100 % between closed and open throttle.

The POT% bar
indicates the optional input signal voltage. No calibration here.

6.8 Maps (F3)

6.8.1 Timing Maps (Alt 1)

6.8.2 Fuel Maps (Alt 2)

6.8.3 Lambda Maps (Alt 3)

6.8.4 Correction Maps (Alt
4)

6.8.5 Data Logger (F4)

6.8.6 Manual (F5)

Click on the Maps
tab to get information on the tuning maps of your engine. Startup Maps are
being preset before the ECU has been shipped. These maps may require to be
adjusted to suit your engine. Some maps for tuned engines are also supplied and
may only require minor adjustments.

Click on of these
icons to adjust different settings in the setup page. Activate the Hot-Key by
pressing the Alt button plus the correlating number as in the icon block.

6.8.1 Timing Maps (Alt 1)

6.8.1.1 Dynamic Timing Map

This Timing map is
the wide open throttle map. Here you set the maximum timing of the engine
trough the whole RPM range. If the engine ping or detonate, see at which RPM’s
it happens and bring the graph 3 to 4 degrees down at that RPM range.

The dynamic timing
curve can be adjusted every 100 RPM’s in steps of 1° between 0 and 45°. Move
the cursor over the graph with your mouse. From there on you can set the map
with your cursor keys. Use the left and right cursor to change RPM bar at
100RPM intervals and up and down cursor keys to adjust the timing at 1 degree
intervals. The green bar is where your cursor is and where you can change the
values. The Blue bar is where your engines current RPM’s are.

You can click on
the mouse button and adjust with a mouse by simply dragging the graph. You may
switch the real-time tracking on so that the green adjustment bar will follow
the blue active bar. Then you will adjust the value where the RPM’s is at the
time.

Notice the graph
below 400 RPM’s is set to the cranking timing. Then the next step is for
idling. The split for vacuum timing is the blue arrow at 1500 RPM. When the RPM
is below this limit the low vacuum timing graph is active and above this value
the high vacuum timing graph will be active.

This setting is
adjusted in the timing set-up.

6.8.1.2 Vacuum Timing Map

On this map you
can set the amount of ignition advance and retard for a specific vacuum or
boost pressure value. There are 2 maps with 32 divisions for the map sensor
which can be adjusted from -15° to +20° in 1° intervals.

Select

and move the cursor
over the graph with your mouse. From there on you can set the map with your
cursor keys. Use the left and right cursor to change vacuum intervals and up
and down cursor keys to adjust the timing at 1 degree intervals. The green bar
is where your cursor is and where you can change the values. The Pink bar is
where your engines current vacuum is.

You can click on
the mouse button and adjust with a mouse by simply dragging the graph. You may
switch the real-time tracking on so that the green adjustment bar will follow
the blue active bar. Then you will adjust the value where the RPM’s is at the
time.

The degrees you
set here will be added or subtracted to the dynamic timing map. Note the -3°
from 0.85 to 1 bar. This will compensate for sea level and inland timing.

6.8.2 Fuel Maps (Alt 2)

6.8.2.1 Main Jet Setting

The
base line fuel
is calculated by the ECU and not mapped in a look-up table like matrix systems.
Calculations alone cannot compensate for all deviations in and engine. The ECU
uses correction graphs to compensate for all kinds of deviations. The Main Jet
adjusts global fuel supply to the injectors much like the main jet in a
carburetor would. This is a constant dependant on fuel pressure and injector
size. If all the maps are zero, you can use this setting to adjust the base
line fueling for the ECU. A standard to use is normal load on the freeway at
normal cruising speed for instance 120Km/h. Your total vacuum range can be
divided into two and use this setting if you are on a Dino. Drag the slider up
or down to increase or decrease fuel till the desired air/fuel mixture is
obtained. Normally around 14.7 or 0.45Volt on the lambda slide bar. Now stop,
put the car in park and adjust the Idle jet till it idles smoothly and the
desired air/fuel mixture is obtained. Now memorize the digital value above the
slider and always go back to that value if you use the slider for tuning. If
you change this value, all the other settings will change accordingly. That is
why it is the first to adjust.

If starting for
the first time you may adjust the slider slowly up while cranking, until the
car starts. As the engine warm up to normal temperature, lower the slider to
keep the engine running smoothly. Start with an idle setting of 70.

To adjust this
slider you can click on the slider button with the mouse and use the up and
down arrow to adjust one increment at a time. The page up and page down can be
used to adjust 10 increments up or down. Alternatively you can use the hot keys
Q and A for 1 increment adjustments and W and S for 10 increments at a time.

6.8.2.2 Idle Jet Setting

The Idle jet
setting adjusts global idling fuel supply to the injectors much like the idle
jet in a carburetor would. Calculations at idle uses a part of the main jet
setting, and gradually fade away as the vacuum signal decreases under load. It
is important to set the main jet first then the idle jet. Start from a lean mix
and increasing till hunting fades. Use the Lambda slide bar for accurate
setting. Remember that idling mix are normally richer than cruising mix. You
can adjust the slider to achieve the maximum vacuum when the engine is at
normal running conditions.

To adjust this
slider you can click on the slider button with the mouse and use the up and
down arrow to adjust one increment at a time. The page up and page down can be
used to adjust 10 increments up or down. Alternatively you can use the hot keys
D and C for one increment adjustments and F and V for 10 increments at a time.

6.8.2.3 Vacuum Fuel Map

This is the main
vacuum correction map. Use this map to adjust enrichment deviations for the
specific engine. Also use this map on the left side to adjust idle mixtures for
an automatic gearbox when selecting drive.

The vacuum bar
will move slightly to the right and then the graph can be increased to get the
right mixtures at this vacuum. The green bar is where your cursor is and where
you can change the values. Pink bar is where your engines current vacuum is.

The 3 Blue arrows
indicate the low, middle and high vacuum settings which select between the 4 different
RPM maps underneath. These limits are adjustable on the Fuel Setup page.

When the Pink
vacuum bar moves between these zones, a different graph is selected on the Fuel
RPM Map below.

You can click on
the mouse button and adjust with a mouse by simply dragging the graph. You may
switch the real-time tracking on so that the green adjustment bar will follow
the blue active bar. Then you will adjust the value where the RPM’s is at the
time.

6.8.2.4 RPM Fuel Map

This graph is used
to adjust enrichment in different vacuum zones. It is divided in four groups on
the top graph with the Blue arrows. Select the Low, Cruise, High Cruise or High
setting and adjust the fuel enrichment over the rpm range for the specific
graph.

Use the Low map
for slow town driving and idling deviations. This will be a fuel saver map in
urban conditions.

Use the Cruise map
for normal deviation in fair load values on the engine. This map is used for
setting the fuel for open roads.

Use the High
Cruise map for normal deviation in higher load values on the engine. This map
is used for setting the fuel for acceleration and uphill roads.

Use the High map
for full throttle condition (WOT). This map is to get the maximum power from
the engine. It is normally set in the richer side on the Lambda slide bar. The
engine should not run lean through the RPM range.

Blue bar is the
engines current RPM and the Green bar is where your cursor is and where you can
change the values.

You can click on
the mouse button and adjust with a mouse by simply dragging the graph. You may
switch the real-time tracking on so that the green adjustment bar will follow
the blue active bar. Then you will adjust the value where the RPM’s is at the
time. The different zones will also change with real time. This will ease with
tuning through the whole range.

6.8.3 Lambda Maps (Alt 3)

These two graphs
will manipulate the target voltage with a certain percentage. As we use a
narrow band sensor it is not recommended using this feature. It is ideal for a
wideband sensor with a linear voltage output. Then you can activate the sensor
to control over all load conditions.

6.8.4 Correction Maps (Alt 4)

6.8.4.1 Temperature Correction map

This map is to set
the water temperature correction mostly for cold starting. The colder the
engine is, the richer the mixture should be. Try and start your engine on a
cold morning. Set the correction factor in the positive region of the map, by
increasing fuel until the car starts. As the engine temperature increase, keep
reducing the mix until it idles smoothly. Always adjust the setting on the
right of the yellow bar. The hotter the engine becomes the less the factor will
become, so your percentage at 70 degrees will be around 0% while at 20 it could
be as high as 50%. A tip is to kick the accelerator in. If there is a flat
spot, the mix is too lean. Always adjust the minimum mix to just eliminate the
flat spot effect.

The yellow bar
indicates actual water temperature of engine

6.8.4.2 Air Temperature Correction map

This map is used
to set the air temperature compensation for Fuel and Timing. On very hot or
cold days when the mix should be leaned out or richen a bit. The timing may
also have to retard on hot days. The colder the air temperature is, the richer
the mixture must be and the faster the timing. Run your engine from cold early
in the morning. Set the correction factor in the positive region of the map, by
increasing fuel until the engine idles smoothly. Use the lambda sensor to
ensure that mixtures stay constant. When the conditions outside get very hot
the engine may start to detonate or ping. Then this graph can be retarded to
compensate for the faster ignition process. It is not easy to adjust this map
so a Dyno and temperature controlled conditions may be required. Not all
vehicles use this map and the sensor may have to be installed. The orange bar
indicates the temperature as measured on the sensor. The Green bar is where the
cursor is for adjustments. To select between timing and fuel check the select
box on top of the graph first to ensure that the correct graph is adjusted.
Blue is for timing and Green is for fuel compensation.

6.8.4.3 Voltage Correction map

This map is used
to set battery voltage compensation to enrich the fuel mix as battery voltage
decreases during cranking. The lower your alternator and/or battery voltage is,
the less fuel gets injected into your engine, causing it to run lean. Increase
the percentage to compensate for a lean condition. A high voltage will require
the least amount of fuel.

In most instances
it’s not necessary to adjust these values if wiring is done according to
specifications. Note that this value is read from the ECU supply and not the
injector supply where the volts are critical.

6.8.5 Data Logger (F4)

The data logger is
a valuable tool in diagnostics to tune your ECU and engine and identify
problems easily and quickly. It helps to record data while driving and view
them afterwards, then use your time to do adjustments in the maps.

First select the
appropriate signal you would like to record by checking the box next to it.

Check the Interval
block to decide the resolution of the samples.

For quick
real-time logging you can log the data on the map by pressing the

buttons. The data will
be recorded and saved in the PC RAM. See the graph below. After logging you can
grab the log sheet with the right mouse button and go to different times in the
graph to see what happened and do alterations on the graphs.

Alternately you
can record the data to a file by pressing the

button. Select a filename which the data must
be saved in.

Once a recording
file is active or a Log file is opened, this bar will be displayed on all the
map pages. You can now replay the data and see how the lambda value was
recorded for different conditions on the engine. When a file is played back,
the ECU will be

. Once you finish your changes you can connect and press

to save the changes in
the ECU.

When a recording
file is selected, you can press the record button

when ready and record
the relevant signals to a Log file. When finished press the stop button

. Now you can move forward or backwards

and move the bar

by dragging it with the
mouse or arrows and play the data from that position by pressing the play button

. The real time data will then be replaced with the data in
the recorded Log file. Now you can go to the different maps and see how the
signal values changed while you were driving. By looking at the Log data you
can do adjustments on the Maps and save it. Then you can do another test run
and see if the engine performed correctly on the lambda value.

The Log file can be opened and replayed at a
later stage by pressing the

button. This feature will also allow the file
to be mailed to the tuner for remote fault finding.

To do adjustments remotely firs load in the
engine map and then open the file. Play it back and do adjustment. Then save
the Map file by pressing save from PC.

6.8.6 Manual (F5)

When you use the
manual for the first time the program will prompt about the location and
filename of the help file. The help file normally comes in PDF format for
standalone use and HTML format (EMU User Manual Ver2.2.1.0.mht) to work in the
tuning software. Click on Browse and guide the explorer to the .mht
file. Click OK and the file will load. This program will store this file
location in the ecu.ini file so that the next time you don’t need to repeat the
process.

If you want to
load n newer version of the manual, delete the old manual file first or delete
the ecu.ini
file and copy the new one to the hard disk. Close the program and reopen it. Repeat
the above process.

7. Other Setup duties and Information

7.1 Jump Starting the Engine

This is always a
bad condition to put any electronics through. The reason is that battery
voltage is too low for the electronics to work properly and very large current
and voltage spikes are induced on the system. It may cause the ECU to erratic
behavior and to switch outputs on at the wrong time. It may also “hang” the micro causing outputs to stay
on and damage coils or driver outputs.

If you must jump
start follow these rules and you should be save from damaging equipment:

Never jumpstart a car without a healthy battery intact. This will cause
erratic voltages over 40 volts which will damage most electronics and
light bulbs.

Make sure that terminals are properly
connected and will not come loose.

First leave the engine off. Connect the cables
and leave them on for a couple of minutes to let the good battery charge
the flat one.

Start the master car. End let it idle at 1500
RPM’s for at least 2 minutes. This will give the alternator a change to
bring both batteries up to 13.8V and put some charge in the flat battery.
If you don’t have thick jumper cables increase this time to 5 minutes.

Now start the other engine. If it does not
crank easily, charge a little longer. If you engine does not start, give
ample time between cranking cycles to let the flat battery recover every
time.

8. Startup
Procedure

8.1 Engine and system preparation.

Before you connect
the ECU do the following:

1.    Install new spark
plugs on engines that were stored a long time.

2.    Service and test
the injectors to ensure they all have the same fuel delivery and that the
filters on them are clean.

3.    First ensure that
the installation is correct according to the Hardware
Installation
procedure.

4.    Test the
electrical wiring a multi meter according to the Excel Test Procedure file
provided on the CD.

5.    Power up the fuel pump
by loosening the fuel pump positive from the relay circuit and connecting it to
12V battery positive. Check the fuel pressure is around 3.5Bar and check for
fuel leaks. Reconnect to the relay.

8.2 Connecting the ECU for the first time

Now you can
proceed with the following steps. If any steps do not correlate with the ECU
operation, stop and look for the faults. Ensure that the ECU is earthed!!!

1.
Remove the coil and injector fuses.

2.
Ensure that the Jumper
Settings are correct inside the ECU.

3.
Connect only the 12 way connector leaving the
10 way connector open. Switch the Ignition on. Do not start the engine. The
yellow LED on the ECU must come on. Also the green LED on the Idle control
board must come on if one is installed. If the yellow LED does not come on
switch off immediately as there may be a short on the 5Volt output that will
damage the ECU.

4.
Ensure that the pins 1,4,6,7,8 &9 are
broken out of the communications connector if you are not using a Spitronics
USB Converter cable.

5.
Now switch the Ignition off and connect the
Laptop to the unit. Switch it on again. Start the PC software and connect to
the ECU. The engine data like the water temp sensor should be displayed. It
should read more or less correctly for the cold engine.

6.
Go through the setup page and ensure all the settings are correct
for the engine. Especially the Trigger Level Output.
This setting may damage the ECU or coils if set incorrectly!!!

7.
Ensure that timing triggers from the distributor or crank are
set up correctly. Also the Trigger Levels,
leading or trailing.

8.
Check Rotor Fazing it
you have a distributor system. This will make Laptop interference is set
incorrectly.

9.
Calibrate the TPS and Map sensors and save
the calibration as described under active
sensors.

10. If
you changed the RPM range or the Map sensor value, save the data to the ECU, close
the PC software and start it again. Then the new values for the graphs will be
loaded to the correct scaling.

11. You
may now crank the engine without the 10 way connector. Check that the Green LED
flashes. Also look at the RPM signal on the timing map. It should show 200 to
300 rpm constant. If it shows erratic and run wild, do not try to start. First
find the fault. It must be constant.

12. The
vacuum should be reading the atmospheric pressure of your region. Check the
Internet for the correct pressure on you altitude.

13. Save the data if it has been changed.

14. Switch
the ignition off and connect the 10 way connector.

15. Remove
all the fuses. Switch the ignition on. The relays will come on for three
seconds the fall out again. If not check the relay wire according to the
drawing.

16. Switch
the ignition off and insert the fuel pump fuse. Start with 5A. If it blows
check the wiring and try 7.5A as some pumps draw more power than others. Do not
go to larger amp fuses as there may be short somewhere.

17. Switch
the ignition on, the fuel pump must start for three seconds and switch off.

18. Switch
the ignition off and insert the coil fuses of 5A. If it blows check the wiring.

19. Now
crank the engine with a timing light and check if the spark timing is in the
10°BTDC region. If not check the Timing Chapter for
the correct setup. Do not attempt to start if the timing is not right or
erratic. You may need to loosen the plug wire a bit to make a small gap so that
the timing light picks up the pulse of the spark plug. For coils that are
bolted onto the plug try using the trigger wire from the ECU. If this does not
work, take a separate wire and wound it three times around the inductive pickup
of the timing light and then insert this wire between the trigger wire and the
coil. This will amplify the signal three times so that it will trigger the
timing light. Set the timing light to zero timing as wasted spark systems read
double the degrees.

20. Switch
the ignition off and insert the injector fuses of 5A. If it blows check the
wiring.

21. Crank
the engine. It should start. If the engine backfires or misses stop and do some
checks. See the Faultfinding
chapter to guide as to what the symptoms may be.

22. The
vacuum bar should move to the left of the map while cranking at closed
throttle. If your setup is correct it should start and idle smoothly.

23. Make
sure the RPM is constant before revving the engine. If it jumps more than 300
rpm intervals, recheck the trigger polarity. It must be steady.

24. Look
at the exhaust. If there is black smoke, it is very rich. Try leaning it out on
the water temp graph by lowering the dot on the right side of the yellow bar.

25. During
the heating up faze, blip the accelerator from time to time. If the engine has
a flat spot it may be lean and need some more fuel. Adjust the main jet till
the flat spot reduces.

26. The
green LED in the Idle control should go off once the target RPM is reached. If
it flashes then the ECU is trying to control the idling but nothing happens. It
means the fault is to the idle motor side. Maybe a wiring fault or sticky motor
or valve. It may also be a blocked airway or the throttle opening is too large.
Remember for every 19% of enrichment on the water correction graph, the ECU
will raise the set RPM’s by 100.

27. As
the engine heats up, the water sensor value must increase. Adjust the mix on
the water graph or by lowering the main jet slider till the engine is at normal
temperature.

28. The
water graph should now be around 85°C with no fuel enrichment. If it is not,
you can calibrate the sensor on the setup page. The engine should rev up
smoothly. If it has a flat spot it requires more fuel. Increase the main jet
slightly till the flat spot is about gone. Also check that the timing is not
the result of the flat spot. Check with the timing light that the timing
increase as the software indicates.

29. Let
the engine idle and adjust the idle jet till it idles smoothly. Always try to
make the mixture as lean as possible because it is difficult to feel when it is
too rich.

30. Save
the data to the ECU. The car may stutter and die. Restart again and proceed
with tuning.

9. Tuning Principles

9.1 Fuel Settings for Starting the Engine

The ECU has n few
sequences how to start the engine. An engine requires an initial prime pulse of
fuel to start the moment the engine is cranked, then a richer mixture during
cranking. Once it started, it also requires a certain amount of richer mixture
than idling to get it going till normal idle settings can take over. For cold
starting all these settings must be increased at a certain %. This is done
automatically by the ECU by using the water temperature compensation Map.
Adjust the following setting when the engine is at normal operating temperature.

1.    9.1.1 Start
Prime Pulse

This setting will open the injectors for 20
milliseconds right after the first crank pulse occur. It is a once off pulse
and will only happen once after the ECU is powered up. If your ignition key is
broken and you can turn the starter again without switching off, this pulse
will be absent and the engine may turn a couple of times to start. When the
engine starts look at the exhaust. If there is black smoke it is too much
petrol. Try decreasing this value till the engine struggles to start. Then
increase it slightly. If this pulse is too large, it may flood the engine.

2.    9.1.2 Throttle
Priming
is a function to manually inject fuel into the engine on very cold days. The
TPS must be connected for this feature. If you press the throttle more than
25%, the ECU will prime the injectors by half the value set in the Start Prime
Pulse block. It will start the fuel pump for 1 second to get the fuel pressure
up again. This function may be repeated if more starting fuel is required.

3.    9.1.3 Flood
Control
is a function that clears a flooded engine. It is activated when the
accelerator is pressed more than 80% during cranking. The ECU will cut the
injectors and no fuel will be injected into the engine. The spark and clean air
will eventually dry and ignite the remaining fuel and clear the plugs. When the
throttle is released the ECU resumes normal fueling.

4.    9.1.4 Cranking
Fuel
is calculated using the Map sensor signal. As you crank, the Map signal will
creep to the left, increasing manifold vacuum, which requires less fuel. If you
press the throttle the vacuum will stay right causing the ECU to continue with
the large fuel mixture.

5.    9.1.5 Start
%

If you have idle
control, do not press the throttle as the idle control will ensure enough air
at starting. This value determines how much air the ECU must add to the
starting enrichment. If you don’t have idle control it helps to open the
throttle slightly for starting. Do not rev the cold engine as oil pressure is
still low. Rather let it heat up gradually. For cold starting you may need to
keep the engine running with the throttle as it requires more air.

6.    9.1.6 Start
Enrichment

This setting will
enrich the idle fuel by adding 0.5 milliseconds to the injector time. This
value will decrease with RPM counts, and should fade in about 8 seconds at
idling to zero milliseconds. If you rev the engine after starting, it would be
zero in 2 seconds. Try starting with a zero value. Do not press the throttle.
If the engine dies after starting, increase this value till it keeps running.

9.2 Tuning Basics

Tuning is basically getting the two main
ingredients of fuel amount and spark timing correct. The instruments used for
this is a timing light and the lambda sensor wired into the ECU. The reason why
no Dyno is required, is because you can tune it with the help provided and the
tools available. If you do not have a lambda sensor on the engine you need to
put a lambda tuning instrument in the exhausted.  You also need a good timing light. Rather mark
the degrees on the engine pulley as some timing lights are not very accurate
and cannot measure wasted spark coils accurately.

The engine is
designed for a certain torque and power curve. Inadequate mixtures and timing
will only reduce performance. Timing is the easiest parameter to get in the
right region, as you can use timing marks on the pulley and quality timing
light. Also follow the guidelines for the specific type of pickup to get it
more or less in the firing zone. If you are not sure try to go for a retarded
time position. This will make the least damage and not break the starter.

To start the
engine the first time, use the main jet slider. Start with a low value and
increase it until the engine start. If it starts adjust the main jet so that it
can idle. Always go for the leanest position (bottom) on the slider not to over
fuel the engine. Check the timing with a timing light to ensure that your spark
setup is correct. Now you can concentrate on the fuel again. Let the engine
heat to normal temperatures. First cancel all the compensation fields to zero
and use the main jet slider. Use the lambda sensor as an indicator to see if
you are more or less correct with the fuel. Now follow the guidelines below.

9.3 Ignition Timing Tuning

Most of the ECU’s
will come with a fixed setup for a specific engine. Especially where crank
triggers are used. Then you don’t have to do anything except maybe fine tuning
on the timing maps. If you do not have a setup for your engine, then work
through this part. First make the vacuum timing graph zero. Only adjust the
dynamic timing on the Timing Map.
Make cranking timing about 8° BTDC and idling timing at about 15° BTDC. As you
increase RPM’s increase the timing up to about 3500RPM. Normally here is the
maximum timing which should be around 32° BTDC. Keep it flat for the rest of
the RPM range. This is a basic curve if you do not have any specs for the
engine. See graph below. When the engine is started and idling, ensure that the
software timing is the same as the timing light. If not, adjust the Timing Configuration on the Setup Page.

On the vacuum
timing, keep the graph from the left zero till after the right side of the
vacuum bar at idling RPM. Now increase the timing to around 8° BTDC. Reduce
this to the right till 0° BTDC at WOT vacuum. If you have a turbo, let the
graph cross the zero timing at around atmospheric pressure which is 1Bar. Then
keep on reducing the timing to -8° BTDC at full boost pressure. Turbo engines
normally peak at 22-24° BTDC during WOT. If you cannot hear pinging, rather
start off with a slow time and increase small amounts at a time. On a Dyno the
optimum timing is normally were no power is gained by increasing the value. If
you have access to a knock sensor instrument, it should be easy to tune the
timing correct. As you get to the optimum fuel mixture you may start to hear
pinging again. Immediately lower the timing curve in that region. Timing should
be 2 to 4 degrees below detonation.

9.4 Air / Fuel Ratio Tuning

Again if you ECU
is pre loaded for a specific application, you can give the paragraph a
glance-over. If not, work through it. This is not easy in the beginning as you
work in two dimensions with vacuum versus RPM. Firstly you need to see if your
lambda sensor is working correctly. Get the engine at normal operating
temperatures. Ensure that all the compensation graphs are zero. Adjust the idle
jet leaner till you can hear the engine loosing RPM’s or you see the vacuum bar
moving to the right of the vacuum fuel map. The lambda should now read on the
lean side. If the idle jet does not seem to make a difference it means the main
jet setting is too large. Decrease it slightly. Look at the millisecond injector
bar. The value must decrease when the slider is decreased. Increase the idle
jet 4 to 6 pulses higher when the engine is lean. The lambda should now read on
the rich side. Too rich will also cause the engine to lose RPM’s or the vacuum
bar to move to the right. Increase the mixture to see where is the furthest
point to the right on the lambda bar to determine the sensor maximum. Always
tune to stay below this maximum value. If you don’t see movement on the bar it
means you are over the sensor limit and you will only waste fuel and rob your
engine of power. If the lambda does not react as explained it may be damaged or
not wired correctly. See lambda wiring in the manual.

Now you need to
get a setting for the main jet to get a baseline fuel setting under normal load
conditions. Firstly set the main jet to a value where you can drive with the
vehicle. Zero the vacuum map in the middle so that no compensation is taking
effect. Go on the open road and cruise at 120 km/h. Try to get a flat road
where you can have a constant supply of fuel to the engine. Also aim to have
the Map sensor value in the middle of the graph on the vacuum map. Adjust the
main jet slider for enrichment of 0.45V on the lambda slider bar. If the engine
works hard like for an elevated 4x4, you may not reach 120km/h under half load.

If you already have a pre loaded map, your
vehicle should be running fine. You still need to adjust the main jet because
fuel pressure and air resistance between vehicles differ causing a custom
setting for each. Leave the compensation as it is and only adjust the main jet
as above. If the main jet is adjusted, you may need to correct the idle jet
afterwards, as it uses the main jet value in its calculations. For turbo cars
you may need to work on different loading to get the desired setting. If you
started with a small main jet setting, your vacuum graph will tend to sit above
the zero line. When you finished tuning the ECU, the vacuum graph should sit
around the zero line.

During full load
conditions, always stay just below the maximum mixture on the lambda slider. If
you are on it you will not see if you are over it. Do not go lean at any stage,
as this may damage your engine. Setting full load maps always monitor the
lambda sensor and the moment you go lean, back off the throttle and adjust the
maps and try again. During normal cruising, stay in the changeover region, 0.45
volt or 14.7. Light cruising may go left in the lean mixture. Do not worry as
there is too little heat to destroy the valves. Remember that a lean mixture
will lose power more rapidly that a rich mixture. So you can use this feature
for normal cruising to check if you are in the ball park with fuel. By pressing
the page up or down button, the slider will jump by 10 each time. When driving,
you can page down to see if you are not too rich on the mixture. Leaning the
fuel out by 10 to 20 should be felt by losing power. The lambda should also go
lean if it is not already lean. Remember the value of the slider and always
come back to it. Rather adjust the dots on the graph in that region.

For turbo cars
ensure that your mix is on the rich side at WOT. Also ensure that timing is
below 24°BTDC. Now follow the steps setting up your ECU.

9.4.1 Setting the Main Jet

Go on the open
road and cruise in top gear around 120Km/h. Look for a flat road where cruising
can be consistent without hills or overtaking. Your total vacuum range can be
divided into two and use this setting if you are on a Dino. Drag the slider up
or down to increase or decrease fuel till the desired air/fuel mixture is
obtained. Normally around 14.7 or 0.45Volt on the lambda slide bar. Now
memorize this setting as it is handy to use the main jet for tuning. Always
come back to this setting as the rest of your tuning is calculated around this
baseline fuel setting.

9.4.2 Setting the Idle Jet

Stop the car and
let it idle in park or neutral. Ensure the graph around the vacuum bar is flat.
Adjust 2 dots on each side at the same level. They may be at around 10% above
the zero level since idling requires a richer mixture. Adjust the Idle jet to
get the desired mixture. If the lambda indicates a lean mixture make it richer
by increasing the value. The mixture should be as rich as WOT mixture. If you
step it down 4 to 6 numbers you should be able to see the vacuum bar move to
the right. Too rich a mixture will also cause the bar to move to the right.
Lean it out a bit.

9.4.3 Setting the Idle in Drive for an Automatic Gearbox

Put the gearbox in
drive. The vacuum bar should move a bit to the right. This is due to load on
the engine by the torque converter. Now adjust the vacuum map graph around the
vacuum bar till it idles at the right mix again. Always adjust 2 dots in front
and 2 at the back to the same level to cater for variation in vacuum.

Save the maps
again with the Write to ECU button.

If you started with a
set of standard maps, you car should be OK now. For fine tuning you may go on a
dyno or set it according to the explanation in this manual.

From here on do
not adjust the main jet slider as it will adjust all other values. If you do
use it for tuning, always return to the same value of the initial setting. You
may fine tune the idle jet anytime.

9.4.4 Accelerator Pump Setting

Because fuel
mixture is calculated, and idle to running is a unique program developed, the
ECU will automatically cater for fueling required during acceleration. Thus you
most probably will not require extra fuel. Another reason for this is that the
ECU uses an external MAP sensor which is situated close to the engine. The
vacuum signal is therefore direct and fast. Vacuum is calculated before every
injection cycle. Any changes in vacuum are immediately catered for in the next
injector pulse. If you go to the vacuum map and press the throttle quickly, you
should not be able to see the bar move to the right. If it is sluggish you will
have a flat spot. This is normally the result of too long or too thin vacuum
line or too small port at the manifold. Setting these values too large will
only waste fuel and gain nothing. So the norm is to only tune till the flat
spot is gone.

1.    Select TPS or MAP.
Setting both comes later with more experience.

2.    Set the Max RPM.
Normally 1500 to 2000 RPM’s.

3.    Select a
percentage enrichment starting with 10% increments. Normally 40 to 50%.

4.    Select sensitivity
by starting with 10 (least sensitive) and work towards 1 (most sensitive).
Normally 2 to 4.

5.    Kick the
accelerator pedal in and release. Listen and feel for the flat spot. Sometimes
it sounds like a flat spot but it is actually the noise of the vacuum being
eliminated at the throttle. Rather look at the RPM’s and feel for a jerk
pulling off.

6.    Increase the
sensitivity towards 1 and repeat point 5 till you are satisfied. You may also
increase the enrichment till the desired results are achieved.

7.    Always look at the
exhaust for black smoke indicating too much fuel. You can also use the air/fuel
(lambda) gauge to indicate correctness.

9.4.5 Fuel Cut-Off Setting

Here is something
the carburetors did not have. On the ECU you can cut the fuel supply to the
engine completely when decelerating or down hills. This makes for a bit of fuel
saving especially in urban driving. This is done with 3 settings. All 3
conditions have to be met to activate the fuel cut feature.

1.

The TPS % must be below this value. Set a
value small enough to activate when the throttle is released. If no TPS are
installed, uncheck the TPS under active sensors. Then this feature will only
work with the next 2 functions.

2.

The vacuum signal must be lower than this
value to activate the feature. Set a value just smaller than neutral idle
vacuum at normal temperature.

3.

The RPM’s must be higher than this value. Set
this value to around 500 RPM higher than idling.

4.    There is a dead
band implemented in the calculations to prevent hunting. Try to find the best
setting which brings the fuel back the moment the engine goes from negative to
positive force on the drive train. This will prevent jerking when the engine
comes to life.

9.4.6 Cold Start Setting

First finish the
normal tuning of the engine. The main jet setting will affect this setting as
well. For cold starting and running the engine requires a richer fuel mixture
and extra air flow. On certain engines it may require as much as 50% enrichment
on a cold day. Otherwise it will not have enough power to run.

1.    Let the engine
cool down overnight. Go to the correction maps. The bar for water temperature
should indicate the outside temperature. If it is out of calibration it is not
critical. Normally it is calibrated to be accurate around working temperature.
As long as the sensor follows a constant graph you can still effectively set up
cold starting.

2.    Start the engine
and decrease the dot on the right hand side of the temperature bar. If you hear
the engine loose RPM or the vacuum signal increase (move to the right), raise
the dot with 3%. Wait till the temperature increase and pass over to the
following dot. Do the same here. Keep on till the engine is on normal operating
temperature. At around 60°C the correction map should be zero if the
calibration is correct.

3.    A test to see if
the mix is correct, is by pressing the accelerator pedal in not too fast, to
see if the engine has a flat spot. If so increase the dot slightly.

4.    Remember you may
see black smoke but it is normal for a cold engine as it requires a lot of fuel
to run.

5.    If the engine has
idle control, the ECU will raise the idle set point with 100RPM’s for every 19%
of fuel enrichment. This means that you don’t have to add extra air to raise
cold RPM’s.

6.    If the engine does
not have idle control, you can open a solenoid air valve to the intake by using
one of the GP outputs. This way the engine will idle a bit faster till it
reaches a certain temperature and switch the valve off.

7.    The ECU will also
lengthen the prime pulse during starting by the same % that the bar is set at.

9.4.7 Air Temperature Compensation

Not all cars or
engines have air temp sensors or use this to determine fuel mixture. However is
can be added and used effectively. It is however difficult to tune as you need
controlled environment to do so effectively. When air is cold it is thick and
the volume is greater. Thus it requires more fuel. When hot the opposite
happens. If the engine is tuned on a cold, you can save fuel on a hot day, by
leaning out the mix till is correct again. On the other way round, you may run
lean which is dangerous. So to set this you must look at the mix when
conditions are changing. Set the dots on the graph as they change. Do little
changes at a time and get to know you lambda signal very good.

The same happens
with timing. The colder the engine the slower the timing must be. So a hot
engine tends to detonate. Here you can retard the timing slightly till
detonation disappears.

9.4.8 Battery Voltage Compensation

Battery voltage
has an influence on the opening and closing time of the injectors. This will
make a deviation in the fuel quantity especially at high RPM’s. This is also
very difficult to adjust. One advantage is that when cranking the volts will
drop quite a lot which make this map ideal to add or subtract cranking fuel for
startup. The main problem is wiring. If positive wires supply different
circuits, the voltage will vary with current flowing through the common wires.
As the injectors and ECU are supplied by separate circuits it is very important
to follow the wiring instruction during installation. If you do voltage
compensation at running voltages, it is important to supply the ECU directly
from the battery via a relay from the ignition switch.

10. Fault Finding

10.1 Faults and Remedies

10.1.1 The ECU yellow LED does not come on

1.    The ignition wire
does not have 12Volt

2.    There is a short
on the 5 Volt output from the ECU. The magnetic crank or distributor sensor,
TPS and MAP sensor use 5 volt. Check the wiring.

10.1.2 The Software does not connect to the ECU with the USB to RS232
Converter

Pin 1,4,6,7,8 & 9 must be broken out to
operate. See RS232
Computer
to ECU interface

The Baud rate must be set to 19200 in the
Device Manager.

No Driver for this Device installed – The USB
converter must have a driver CD which has to be installed first.

Too high Comp Port allocation for the driver.
See  Changing
the USB Comport
in Windows Device Manager

Faulty USB converter.

10.1.3 The engine does not start for the first time

Go through the Startup Procedure to ensure ECU operation is correct.

If you crank the engine and it does not want
to start, disconnect the high tension leads at the plugs one by one and
see if there is spark on the plugs. If not:

a.    Check if the green
LED on the ECU flash while cranking. If not check the crank or distributor
signals. Gaps of magnetic pickups may be too large.

b.    Check if the fuel
and Coil relays pull in at ignition on. If not check that the numbers on the
relays are correctly wired.

c.    Test if the coils
have positive supply +12 Volt when cranking the engine.

d.    Test the coil
resistance from the 10 way connecter to see if open circuit.

e.    Test the coil to
see if faulty.

f.     If distributor
type check the spark at the coil HT pole.

If there is spark, take out one of the spark
plugs. If it is dry it means there is no fuel. Check for:

a.    Ensure the fuel pump
is running during cranking.

b.    Test the fuel
pressure by loosening a bolt on the fuel rail somewhere. Hold a rag over the
joint to prevent spillage. Keep a fire extinguisher close by.

c.    Ensure that the
injectors was checked and serviced if the engine stood for a long time.

d.    Put your fingers
on the injectors and feel if they pulse during cranking.

e.    If not, check the
software for milliseconds injector time. It should be more than about 5% during
cranking.

f.     If it shows zero
milliseconds, check the map calibration, TPS calibration, fuel cut off function
settings.

If the plugs are wet it means there is fuel.
Check the following:

a.    It may be that the
start fueling was too much and the plugs were flooded. Dry them and try again.
You can also push the throttle in completely and crank the engine till it tries
to start or the plugs become dry.

b.    It may be that
ignition timing is setup incorrectly. Then firing occurs at the wrong time and
failing to ignite the fuel mix. Check again the timing setup for the specific
engine.

c.    The plugs may be
old or dead. Replace.

If the engine tends to stop cranking suddenly,
check the following:

a.    It may be that the
timing is too fast. Reduce by 10 degrees. Add more teeth if a crank gear are
used.

b.    If there is a
magnetic crank or distributor sensor, check that positive and negatives are not
switched around.

c.    If more than one
coil is used, check for incorrect wiring or firing order.

10.1.4 Engine Backfires during Cranking

The engine backfires through the intake.

a.    Faulty ignition
timing or firing order. Check again the timing setup for the specific engine.

b.    If there is a
magnetic crank or distributor sensor, check that positive and negatives are not
switched around.

c.    If more than one
coil is used, check for incorrect wiring or firing order.

d.    Check if the RPM
bar jumps erratic in the PC software. If it does, the gap of the magnetic
sensors may be too large or the signal is too weak.

The engine backfires through the exhaust.

a.    Too lean fuel
mixture. Increase by 10 on a time on the main jet.

b.    Water temperature
sensor or compensation map incorrect.

c.    Some of the plugs
may be old or dead. Replace.

10.1.5 Engine start but it stalls directly afterwards

Check the map sensor in the fuel map field is
operating. The red bar should be on the right hand of the Graph. If it is
on the left side, it may need calibrating or it may be faulty or a wire
fault.

The fuel mixture may be too lean. Try to
enrich using the main jet slider.

The temperature sensor may be faulty causing
the cold engine to give a warm signal to the ECU. Thus leaning the mixture
out.

Incorrect Fuel Cutoff
settings. A symptom will be that the milliseconds bar on the real time
block will jump to 0.

10.1.6 Engine start but is very rich

Check the map sensor in the fuel map field is
operating. The red bar should move to the left of the screen. If it is
standing on the right it is faulty or wiring fault.

The main jet or idle jet slider is too high.
Try lowering them to the values it came with. Main 138 and Idle 70.

Check if the water temp sensor is working. If
not it will keep on enriching the mix as if for a cold engine.

Some of the plugs may be dead, and then the
engine looses manifold vacuum resulting in enriching the other pistons.

Fuel maps set to too high values. Lower the
values.

Fuel pressure regulator regulates too high.
Measure the pressure. It should be between 2.5 and 3.5 bar.

10.1.7 RPM signal very erratic.

Incorrect magnetic trigger polarity.

Interference on pickup.

10.1.8 Engine start but do not rev up

Check the map sensor in the fuel map field is
operating and calibrated. The red bar should move to the right if the
throttle is pressed.

Too lean mixture. Try increasing the main jet
value.

Incorrect rotor fazing or timing. Check with a
timing light.

Incorrect magnetic trigger polarity.

Check the micro fueling and boost limiter
blocks and see if the settings there are correct. A symptom will be that
the milliseconds bar on the real time block will jump to 0.

10.1.9 Idle Control does not work

Check first if it is wires correctly as indicated
on the drawing. If it is an idle valve, make sure the diode is intact. If
it is a stepper controller, make sure the sequence is wired correctly. It
may close instead of opening.

Faulty TPS setting. Make sure the TPS is
calibrated correctly. It must go from 0 to 100% over the full range.

Check the idle control settings according to
the explanation.

Make sure that the throttle idle position is
set correctly. The idle valve can only close as much as this setting.

Check if the idle valve or stepper motor is
not stuck. The idle valve can be pulsed with 12Volt to see if it opens and
the stepper normally vibrates when the ignition is switched on. It may
still be stuck even if it vibrates. So take the stepper off and see if it
opens.

If the green LED on the stepper idle
controller is on during idle, it means that the idle computer does not
receive the RPM pulse from the ECU. Recheck the wiring. The green wire
must be connected to GP out 2 except for the Lexus computer where it is
connected to the RPM output.

If the green LED on the idle controller flash
it means that the idle computer tries to adjust the RPM but nothing
happens. The idle motor itself is sticky or wired incorrectly. Open it up
and clean and lubricate. With the long shipment on ships it corrodes on
the inside. The wiring to the idle motor may be incorrect. The airway of
the idle motor is blocked.

The USB converter or RS232 serial cable may
interfere with the RPM output signal. Break out pin 1,6 & 8. See ECU interface.

10.1.10 Auto Gearbox does not shift

Check to ensure correct wiring connection to
the ECU.

The USB converter may interfere with the RPM
output signal. Break out pin 1, 6 & 8. See ECU interface.

10.1.11 Spark plugs does not last

Too rich fuel mixture.

Wrong temperature plugs

10.1.12 Flat Spot when accelerating

Other vacuum line tied into the Map sensor
line.

Restricted vacuum line.

Too long vacuum line.

Too small port for Map sensor on intake
manifold.

Incorrect setting of fuel maps.

10.1.13 Engine does not want to rev up

The Fuel Cut-Off settings are wrong.

The magnetic crank or distributor sensor’s
negative and positive wires are changed around. The gap may be too large.

Rev limiter is set too low

Incorrect setting of fuel maps.

Fuel pressure or flow rate to low. Dirty fuel
filter.

Faulty fuel pump.

10.1.14 Engine lack power, idle erratic, or runs lean

The fuel pressure is erratic. This may be due
to the pump sucking air on the in feed which causes cavitations and loss
of pressure. This happens more frequent when the engine is hot.

Injector positive is wired incorrectly. It
does not have its own supply direct from the battery via relay 1.

Incorrect setting of fuel maps.

Fuel pressure or flow rate to low. Dirty fuel
filter.

Faulty fuel pump.

10.1.15 ECU cuts during driving – Interference

Interference or
feedback is caused by the following reasons:

Earth wires incorrect. Tie the black wires of
the harness to the ECU enclosure. Tie a 2.5mm or thicker wire from the ECU
enclosure to the body as an earth strap if it is not screwed directly onto
the body.

Screened cables of the sensors must be
connected close to the sensors to ensure maximum screening.

No screen wire must be connected to the
engine. Only to the TPS, Map sensor Temperature sensors and lambda sensor
if specified by the drawing. Don’t common it with engine ground.

Faulty High Tension sparkplug wires.

HT lead run too close to sensitive input
wires.

The Ignition Positive wire is used for high
current devices that generate voltage spikes. Couple all coils etc via
relay circuits from the fuse box supplied.

Poor voltage supply to the ECU.

Large relays do not have decoupling diodes and
induce spikes on the ignition wire. Install free running diode supplied
according to drawings.

Incorrect alternator wiring. The main charge
wire (thick positive) should be connected at the battery positive terminal
rather than the vehicle harness. The battery acts as the smoothing
capacitor.

Battery earth straps are not adequate. Earth
straps should go from the battery negative to the body and also from the
battery negative to the engine.

Incorrect rotor fazing. The spark has to jump
a gap in the distributor inducing spikes on the pickup device.

11. Specifications

These
specifications are for the advance ECU combinations. This means that not all
may be applicable to the standard and intermediate ECU. See the Introduction different models
for variation.

11.1.1 Inputs

2x Magnetic inputs
or 2x Hall or Optic inputs or combination of the 2 Groups

1x Map sensor
input 0 – 5V

1x Water
Temperature Input – 2K NTC Resistance Sensor

1x Air Temperature
Input – 10K NTC Resistance Sensor

1x Lambda Input 0
– 1 V

1x General Input –
Selectable for Pot Input, Launch Button or Battery Voltage Correction

Software RS232
Connection

Programmer
Connection

11.1.2 Outputs

6x 7A current
Outputs to Ground (coil + injector drivers)

1x Fuel Relay
Output 2A to Ground

1x RPM Output 2A
to Ground

2x General Purpose
Outputs 2A to Ground

5V Output for TPS
& Map Sensor and Magnetic Pickups

11.1.3 Crank & Cam Angle Sensors

The ECU can sense
any crank or cam sensors. Popular types are 60-2, 36-1, 36-2, Nissan Optic,
Toyota 24+TDC, Rotary, Spitronics Optic and lot more. These are program
specific, and are combined with the type of ECU firmware loaded by the Agent.
Some sensors may not be incorporated in programs before but can be done on
request. A fee may be charged for customized software by the Hour. Note that
Magnetic and Hall or Optic sensors have different input connection and thus
different harnesses. No difference in the software is necessary.

11.1.4 Load Sites

Dynamic Timing Map
– 100 RPM divisions – 1° intervals 0 to 45°BTDC

Vacuum Timing Map
– 32 intervals through Map Sensor Range – 1° intervals -15 to +15°

Fuel Vacuum Map –
64 intervals through Map Sensor Range – 1% intervals -50% to +50% Correction

Fuel RPM Map – 3
Maps – 32 intervals through RPM Range – 1% intervals -50% to +50% Correction

Water Temperature
Correction Map – 24 intervals 0 to 120°C – 1% intervals -60% to +60% Correction

Air Temperature
Fuel Correction Map – 24 intervals -20 to 100°C – 1% intervals -50% to +50%
Correction

Air Temperature
Timing Correction Map – 24 intervals -20 to 100°C – 1° intervals -50° to +50°
Correction

Battery Voltage
Correction Map – 16 intervals 8 to 16V – 1% intervals -50% to +50% Correction

12.Firmware Programmer

The firmware
programmer allows the agents or users to change the Firmware program in the TITAN
ECU for different engines. This is also used for upgrading to the latest
version of the manufacturers firmware. The programmer is bought optional and
not a requirement. It is very useful if the agent is far from the manufacturer.
The firmware software is free as it is developed. Read the Precautions below to
prevent damage.

12.1 NB! Precautions

·
Note however that you may not program
firmware into an EMU or ECU or TCU if it was not written for that specific
electronic hardware. The setup of the micro processors is different and you may
connect inputs to outputs that will damage the processor or the electronics. E1
Firmware is for EMU and E2 Firmware is for TITAN ECU.

·
A Type 3 or Standard ECU can only take T3
firmware programs. If you load T11 or T15 in, the Yellow LED will flash twice
when you switch it on and will not allow you to save the data maps.

·
A Type 11 or Intermediate ECU can take T11
and T3 firmware programs. If you load T15 in, the Yellow LED will flash twice
when you switch it on and will not allow you to save the data maps.

·
A Type 15 or Advance ECU can take T15, T11
and T3 firmware programs. This will allow the user any combination as this ECU
is the top of the range.

·
Never press the

button in the
Programmer Software. This will erase the ECU ID Code and then it will not work.
The Yellow LED will flash three times
when you switch it on and hang the processor. This ECU will have to be
reprogrammed by the manufacturer.

·
Always disconnect the 10 Way output harness
from the ECU. When the programmer is connected all the outputs are switch to
the high state which means that coils and injectors will be switched on. This
may damage the coil drivers or coils and fill the engine with fuel.

·
Follow the Startup
Procedure to make sure that the right firmware and settings is
loaded to prevent damage.

12.2 Installation

On the CD in the Firmware
Programmer File run the setup file mcu_ide.exe to install the software
program. If you do not have the programmer software you may download the latest
version from the internet at the following link:

http://www.silabs.com/Support%20Documents/Software/mcu_ide.exe

Follow the onscreen instructions till you are asked for the
following. Click on Custom and uncheck Examples and Utilities.

You will not need
these and they will only take up unnecessary disk space. No harm if you install
the complete programmer. Connect the USB programmer to the PC only and start
the program at the start button, activate Silicone Laboratories and click on
Silicone Laboratories IDE.

Now click on
Options, Connect Options and select USB Debug Adapter and also C2 interface.
Click OK and you are all set to use the Programmer.

12.3 Operation

To program the TITAN ECU first connect the
Programmer to the ECU Com Port. Connect only the 12 Way connector and earth the
ECU. Switch the ignition on. Click on the

button to connect.

The download

button will become
active, click on it.

Now use the Browse
button to select the correct HEX file on the hard disk or CD. Do not at any
stage press the Erase all code space button.

Select the Files
of Type to be Intel Hex (*.hex) then go to Look in:
to search for the correct file.

Click Open
when it is selected.

Click Download
to program the ECU.

Click the
disconnect

button when it is
finished and switch the ignition off. Disconnect the programmer and connect the
USB to RS232 Converter cable. Do not connect the 10 Way cable before you run
through the startup procedure. This will ensure that load the right firmware
and not to damage the ECU.