MANUAL Introduction

The
manual is written in sequence for the beginner. If you are a first time user
spend some time working through it and understanding where and how the
information are put together so that it will be easy to find what you are
looking for. If you are an expert, use this guide to jump to the right chapter.
Is has a lot of information and may be frustrating to find the answers if you
don’t know where to look.

NB!
Make sure you have read the Terms and Conditions on the
website www.spitronics.co.za before you
install this ECU. By installing the ECU you automatically agree to these
conditions.

1.TITAN Introduction

This
chapter discusses the TITAN ECU as a product, how it is designed, and how it operates in general.

2.Safety
Precautions

This
chapter discusses the all the safety precaution to the user and the product. Very
important to read!!

3.Requirements

This
chapter discusses the requirements for the ECU to run on the engine and the PC
specifications to communicate with the ECU.

4.Hardware Installation

This
chapter discusses the how to do the wiring and physical installation of the
ECU. Be
sure to read the precautions during this faze!!

5.Software Installation

This
chapter discusses the how to install the software and drivers to connect to the
ECU.

6.Software Operation and Setup

This
chapter discusses the operation of the tuning software and how to set the
parameters up for each specific engine.

7.Other Setup duties and Information

This
chapter discusses other settings and equipment setup around the ECU.

8.Startup Procedure

This
chapter discusses the basic sequence of actions to prevent damage during the
startup faze.

9. Tuning

This
chapter discusses tuning information after the engine has been started. This is
to enhance performance and economy and correct operation of the ECU.

10.Fault Finding

This
chapter discusses the symptoms and remedies of known faults.

11.Specifications

This
is a list of specifications for the TITAN ECU.

12.Firmware Programmer

This
chapter discusses how to upgrade or change the TITAN ECU Firmware.

TITAN ECU

Welcome

Congratulations on your purchase of the TITAN Engine Control Unit (ECU). We are sure that you will be satisfied with
this robust, compact and user friendly controller, which was designed to meet
today’s requirements. This ECU was developed around the people involved with
Management Computers. We hope that it will give you years of trouble
free operation.

Please read this manual to learn about the safety precautions and design
features of your ECU. Failure to use and install this management system
properly may cause injury to people or damage to equipment. This Manual was
written with the novice and professional engine tuner in mind, and we would
like to urge you to install the ECU according to our recommendations. This is
the best way to get the most out of your ECU.

Please read the Precautions before and after
installation and before connecting the ECU, to ensure that the correct
procedures are followed.

1.TITAN Introduction

1.1ECU
Design Philosophy

1.2ECU Control Philosophy

The
TITAN
Engine Control Unit (ECU) was designed to be a cost effective
replacement for high tech fuel managements systems. It uses unique features
found in high tech systems, although it is still easy to install and program.
It is designed with the novice and professional installer in mind. See the ECU Control Philosophy further in the
manual to understand how it works.

TITAN
is
a South African made product and can be customized for dedicated engines and
models. It can also be combined to form larger complex systems for racing
applications. It is a reliable compact system which is easy to mount in the
driver’s compartment. No external firing modules or converter boards are
necessary.

The
ECU is customized for specific applications and the installer does not have to
pay for excess wires or unused features. Nor does he have to buy separate
firing modules and MAP sensors which will increase the price. Instead it is
compiled with the correct harness and equipment as well as software and maps to
ease installation and setup. The software will also be calibrated for the
sensors of the specific engine.

This
ECU comes in three models with standard harnesses to accommodate most engine
requirements namely Standard, Intermediate and Advanced units. The units are
designed to be small and compact and use the latest in high speed micro
controllers with surface mount technology. These units are machine soldered to
minimize human error.

Firing
modules that will reduce cost are incorporated in the ECU. Analog idle control
is included on board for one and two wire idle valves. External Stepper idle
control units can be connected with all three types of ECU’s.

The
PC Tuning software is standard for all units. The specific ECU will blank out
all tuning fields not applicable.

Other
key features are variable charge times which are MAP (Mean Absolute Pressure)
dependant, fuel cut-off features, launch control, lambda loop control, general
purpose outputs, altitude correction etc.

The
different models are as follows:

TITAN Standard

This is the most basic and cost effective
form of the ECU. It is a single channel trigger, (Magnetic or Hall input,) one
coil output and two batch injector outputs. The injectors are pulsed 180° out
of phase. This ECU is suitable for cars with a distributor and single coil.
Engines such as 3,4,5,6 and 8 cylinders can be used. For 12 cylinders the
intermediate ECU is recommended for more injector outputs. Electronic
distributors do not need to be modified for fazing. Idle control and launch
control is standard.

TITAN Intermediate

This ECU is for more complicated trigger
setups in distributors like Toyota 24T+TDC, Nissan Optic, all crank gears, and
customized optic disks etc… It does Split-Sequential fueling on 4, 6, and 8
cylinder injector banks. It has one coil output. Idle control and launch
control is standard.

TITAN Advanced

This ECU is designed as the intermediate but
with the added feature of multi coil or wasted spark. The ECU has 6 trigger
outputs which can be used for different combinations of injectors and coils.
Sensor inputs can be 60-2, 36-1, 24T+TDC and just about any kind of hall or
magnetic setup on the engine. Coil driver outputs can be for single or wasted
spark coils. It can do idle control and launch control is standard.

All
wiring harnesses use screened cables for neatness of installation and to
prevent interference from other electronics or electromagnetic pulses, which
may otherwise cause erratic behavior of the ECU.

External
MAP sensors are used to reduce vacuum line length into the cab which will delay
reaction time due to the mass of the air volume. It also makes the ECU more
versatile to adapt for different aspirations on engines with or without turbo’s
or superchargers.

1.1 ECU Design Philosophy

The ECU was
designed with many factors in mind. First is that engine management does not
have to be complicated and reserved for a selected few mechanical geniuses.
Just like the old days, if you take some time to read a few books and dare to
use a screwdriver and timing light, you could get to know you carburetor and
ignition pretty well and become handy in tuning and servicing your own vehicle.
If you ask me is that nowadays it is n lot easier. With all the information at
your fingertips on the internet, and manuals teaching you what the pro’s had to
find out over the years, there is no excuse for illiteracy. You plug a laptop
into the Engine Control Unit ECU and use a lambda sensor and start playing
around. The manuals will even explain how to do it. You don’t have to go and
buy a set of jets and painstakingly change them around to get the desired
effect. With the ECU you can change them while driving! However to get people
to read the manual before picking up the phone or paying someone else, is quite
a problem. Obviously not for you. Thanks!

Secondly is that
only the necessary features are added and no gimmicks which make the ECU too
complicated. No unnecessary load sites and too fine tuning sites which make the
system slow and difficult to tune are added. If an engine has performance,
economy and ease of use then that is all you require. Why make it complicated?
All those unnecessary electronic components is just more things that can fail
and escalate the cost.

Thirdly, no engine
manufacturer uses the same equipment and sensors as the other. The car
manufacturer’s systems even differ between models. So a one management fits all
is not a good idea. You end up paying for a lot of things you don’t use and a
lot of things on the engine that you can’t use, and it takes time figuring out
what you need or don’t need for the installation. There is also a lot more
components that can fail and take up space.

So what makes the TITAN
ECU so different? Well look at some features. Very small, Split-Sequential,
internal modules, customized firmware for most engines, use the sensors and
equipment on the engine, easy to install and tune the enthusiast, maps
included, no dynamometer required, easy to repair by local agents, - to name
but a few.

The ECU is
designed to be understood by mechanics and enthusiasts. Just like a carburetor
it has a main jet and an idle jet. The ECU will calculate fuel from these
settings using the MAP sensor. Only two settings and your car should be able to
go. Again just like a carburetor the ECU has to compensate for cold starting,
slow running, fast running power valve, acceleration and automatic gearbox
damping and idling etc. Obviously we can add air temperature and battery
voltage to it. We could even have the ECU do other stuff like fuel cutoff on
down hill’s, fan control and air conditioner cut-out during up hill’s, rev
limiters, launch control to name but a few.

On the timing side
there was always the dynamic timing with the weights and the vacuum timing with
the vacuum canister. You had to pay around 1k to have your distributor
re-curved if you switch a cam or soup it up. How easy is it now with a laptop?
You can even have a timing curve that goes up, down and up again. Impossible
with weights! Also easy nowadays is to install a turbo. Now you have to retard
the time under boost. Easy!

So please do a
little homework and save yourself a lot of hassles and money of course. And
please read the manuals!

Features

·
Accurate Split-Sequential Fueling – Gives
better performance and fuel consumption due to atomization on each cylinder is
the same.

·
Internal Coil & Injector Drivers – No
extra cost for TP100 or custom firing modules.

·
Single & Multi Coil Spark System – Use
standard coil packs on the engine.

·
Use Sensors on Engine – No need to do
modifications on distributors or converter boards or TP500 modules.

·
Custom Bolt-On Timing Gears – some engines
require different gears to ease installation like the 36-1 for the Lexus Engine
which comes as a bolt on unit. No modifications to fit these gears.

·
Cold Start & Idle Control – This
functions will ease with starting a cold engine and keep the RPM’s constant
when air conditioners or automatic gearboxes draw power from the engine.

·
Launch Control Standard – These are for
racing applications to increase the boost pressure on the line and eliminate Turbo Lag. Note that the buttons are
optional.

·
Two General Purpose Outputs – This can be
used for fan control, shift light, Aircon Cut-Out on Pull-Off or Up-Hill etc.

·
Standard Harness – No need to keep several
harnesses in stock for different engines.

·
Compact Electronics – This will make the ECU
easy to hide under the dashboard as it takes very little space.

·
SA Design with Agent Repair Training – No
need to send to manufacturer for repairs as the reputable agents will be
equipped with repair training end test equipment.

·
Complete Kits for Most Engines – Even rare
combinations can be customized on request.

·
Cost Effective – No need to buy expensive
systems as all the necessary features are included with the ECU.

·
Rotary Systems – The 2 rotor engines use a
normal Advance ECU.

·
External Map Sensor – easy to change between
1Bar, 2.5Bar & 3Bar configurations

·
Easy DIY Instructions – Save a lot of money
on installation if you are a person who is up to the challenge.

·
Start-Up Maps included – This will make for
easy start-up & tuning with the help of a Lambda sensor

·
User Friendly Tuning Software – You don’t
have to be a specialist to understand how the software works. Just read the
manual paying attention.

·
Tuning map can be locked to prevent
tampering. Useful for engine builders to give guarantees.

·
No Dyno Required – Tune your own vehicle and
save some more money. Just following the instructions in the manual carefully.

(Note that the
last four points are for the person who is handy with tools and understand
wiring and operation of an engine. You don’t have to be a Boffin though. If you
are not sure, download the manual and drawing and read through it first. It’s free
of charge!)

1.2 ECU Control Philosophy

If you read the
design philosophy, then you know we designed this system better than a
carburetor but not necessary more difficult. In fact I’m going to explain it
around the trusty old Weber. As we market this system as DIY and self tune, I
am going to explain some basics as well. Do not be scared of the terms and the
electronics. If you worked on a program like Windows Excel, you should be able
to breeze through this.

On a carburetor
you had a low pressure fuel pump which only job was to fill the bowl with the
help of a needle and seat. Then the fuel was drawn with suction through the
jets into the intake manifold. With fuel injection you need a high pressure
pump around 3.5Bar which can deliver enough flow to keep a constant pressure on
the injectors. This is the job of the fuel pressure regulator. It is normally
set around 2.5Bar, but will vary the pressure with intake vacuum. This means
that if the vacuum drops to absolute the fuel pressure will also drop so that a
pressure difference over the injector is constant. Remember the tip of the
injector is subjected to vacuum which will suck more fuel through it at idle
than at wide open throttle WOT. So the regulator must have a vacuum line
connected from its diaphragm to the intake after the throttle body. This
is also true for boost pressures with turbo’s and superchargers. So before you
begin, power the fuel pump and check the pressure and leaks. The ECU will not
know if this system fails except maybe a lean mixture indication on the
air/fuel ratio sensor (lambda).

On the carburetor,
fuel is metered by the main jet and ventury size. The jets are fixed and can be
varied by changing them. This jet must be large enough to fuel the engine on
normal load conditions. With the ECU Fuel is metered by opening the relevant
injector for a specific time. The more air is let into the cylinder, the more
fuel is required and the longer the injector is opened. The ECU uses the Map
sensor signal to calculate how much air goes into the cylinder. Changing this
amount is done by adjusting the main jet
bar on the fuel maps. This value is
the main fuel parameter and all other calculations are based around it. That is
why we set it first. See Setting
the Main Jet.

On the Weber you
have idle jets which ensure that enough fuel and air is supplied for idling.
The ECU also has this Idle Jet. It is calculated with a portion of the main jet
value and is faded off as RPM’s increase. This is the second setting to be made
and is done with the engine idling in neutral with no load.

On automatic cars
the air idle adjuster is made a bit larger to accommodate a richer mix if the
car has to idle in drive. With the ECU you simply raise the dots around the
vacuum bar on the Vacuum map under Fuel maps. The vacuum bar will settle on
different values between neutral idle and drive idle. This means 2 idle jet
configurations.

Normal running on
the Weber is only done by the main jet and ventury size. On the ECU you have
the main vacuum map and a cruise map to vary the fuel for different conditions.
Higher gears will decrease the vacuum and lower the RPM’s. That means you can
vary fuel ratios and even compensate for different gears.

For WOT the Weber
sometimes had 2 tricks. One is the power valve which will enrich the mix at
lower RPM’s and some had a separate jet on top to add fuel at high RPM’s. The
ECU has a RPM Map just for WOT. Now you can adjust the mix through the whole of
the RPM range.

Carburetors all
have an accelerator pump. If you press the throttle too quickly, the manifold
vacuum falls away and the flow over the ventury is for a moment not enough to
suck enough fuel for the change. Also during the transition from idling to main
jet create this problem. On the ECU vacuum is measured very fast and as the
injector sits right at the intake valve, the ECU react almost instantly. There
is however provision for extra fuel and two accelerator pumps is incorporated.
One is working with vacuum signal and one working with TPS signal. If you have
a slow vacuum signal it is better to use the TPS signal, as it is connected to
your foot.

For cold starting
the engine requires more air and richer fuel mixture. The Weber had a trick
where you press the throttle once. The choke butterfly will close completely
and the accelerator pump will squirt some fuel to prime the mix. The bottom
butterfly will also be forced open slightly. If you start the engine, a vacuum
will form in the ventury sucking harder on the idle jets and main jets and so
make the cranking mixture rich enough for starting. The moment the engine
starts, a vacuum canister will force the choke butterfly open slightly causing
air to flow freely through the ventury. As the engine heats up the choke
butterfly will open completely also releasing the bottom throttle to its normal
position.  The ECU does this by opening
the idle valve to accommodate for more air. It will enrich the fuel using the
temperature compensation map. It will squirt a set amount of fuel (Start Prime Pulse) the moment the engine
starts to crank. When the engine starts, it will enrich the mix (Start Enrichment) for a few seconds
fading it out. As the engine heats up, the ECU will lean out the mix on the
water temp compensation map and reduce the idling RPM to the normal setting.

Furthermore the
ECU can compensate for air temperature correction where hot intake air is
thinner requiring a leaner mixture. It can also compensate for battery voltage
deviation which would influence injector opening times causing mixture deviations.
Electric idle valves help the engine not to pre ignite after the ignition is
switched off. This is due to petrol spontaneously combust on hot carbons in the
engine. With the ECU fuel is cut off immediately during power off. So no pre
ignition here. On steep inclines the carburetor always have a problem where the
bowls overflow or the main jets are exposed to air casing the engine to loose
power or flood. This is no problem for the ECU as the petrol is in a closed
pressure loop and the injectors can work upside down. Another problem of the
carburetor is peculation due to engine compartment heat. The fuel simply starts
to boil and then flood the carburetor causing the engine to stall. With fuel
injection again the system is under pressure resulting in a much higher
temperature for peculation. Also the fuel is circulated in the tank causing it
to cool down.

On the timing
side, the normal distributor had 2 dimensions for timing alterations. Firstly
it had weights that did a single advance with RPM curve till a certain RPM and
then it was a flat curve. This same curve was also programmed into later firing
modules. For this dynamic timing the ECU can alter the timing in degree
divisions every 100 RPM’s. It can go up and down which is of great advantage to
top end camshafts.

For vacuum timing
the mechanical vacuum canister was the norm. Some had an adjustable spring
tension but they always followed a fixed curve in one direction. The ECU uses
the Map sensor signal and the vacuum map to add or subtract timing especially
for turbo engines. Again any combination in degree divisions can be adjusted
making this a nice feature to add power and economy. It also helps to keep the
plugs clean.

On the coil side,
the ECU is far better than the old point condenser system. It uses variable
dwell timing which means that the coils is always charged the same time to
ensure that spark energy is at a maximum. Some systems may not have enough time
at high RPM’s to achieve this. However faster coils may be used. The ECU will
calculate when to start charging the coil to ensure it is fully charged before
it will be discharged via the spark plugs. This method will prevent wasted
energy which heat up the modules and also ensure a proper spark every time,
even during cranking when battery voltage is low.

Now comparing the
carburetor to a fuel management system we can clearly see the advantages. There
are lots of other features like fuel cutoff during deceleration, idle control
for automatic cars, and air conditioners, launch control etc.  To successfully tune the engine yourself may
take a bit of trial and error. Two conditions to always be careful of. Never go
too lean on WOT mixtures and be careful of too much advance in the timing
department. Your ear will tell you most of the time but it is not always
possible to hear pinging. A good lambda sensor however will indicate if you are
on a lean mixture.

2. Safety
Precautions

The following
guidelines will ensure proper operation the first time. Failure to install
equipment correctly may damage it or other equipment permanently. These
failures will solely be the responsibility of the installer and no guarantees
will be given by us. Make sure you have read the Terms and Conditions
on the website www.spitronics.co.za before you
install this ECU. By installing the ECU you automatically agree to these
conditions. All equipment is tested before it leaves the factory. We accept no
liability for malfunctioning of the equipment, or to injury that may result
from installation or the use of the equipment. We also accept no liability for
costs of traveling of transportation of the equipment or parts or vehicle
recovery due to failures of any equipment. Please read the instructions and
drawing and make sure you understand before you begin.

2.1 Operator
Safety

Use only proper tools and products suited for
auto installations. Sub standard products and installation procedures may
cause failure to the equipment having your customer break down in
dangerous areas.

Use correct thickness of wire to carry the
entire current requirement for that circuit. Too thin wires will heat up
and may start a fire causing injury.

Use fuses to protect each circuit separately.
Joint circuits require large fuses which may heat and melt lesser circuits
causing fires.

Solder joints, and cover it with shrink sleeve
to prevent loose connections which may cause fires. Space solder-joints so
that they do not sit next to each other minimizing the chance of a short
circuit.

2.2 Equipment
Safety

Never connect a TITAN
ECU on the older EMU Hall cables without the cable modification. See Compatibility.

If you have a firmware
programmer, do not load Ver. E1 EMU firmware on the Ver. E2 TITAN
ECU or visa-versa. It will damage the Micro because they are different.

Never switch the power
on, if the ECU enclosure is not grounded properly – this may destroy some
sensors.

Never switch the power
on with the coil connected. If the Trigger Level Output logic is set wrong
it may destroy the coil or driver. Leave the 10 way connector disconnected
when you switch the ECU on the first time. Then set the coil logic right,
save the data and switch off. Then connect the 10 way connecter and switch
on. Ensure that the fuse is the minimum required value. Too large fuse
will not blow resulting in driver or coil destruction.

Test the installation
with the test procedure before connecting the ECU – this will prevent
damage due to faulty wiring.

Connect the injectors
to its own relay – other items will cause a voltage drop and result in
leaner mixtures.

Connect the relay
supplies directly to battery positive via a fuse as shown in the drawing –
otherwise voltage drops will still cause lean mixtures.

Install the free-wheel
Diodes on relays to prevent spikes from interfering with the ECU.

Break out pins
1,4,6,7,8 & 9 on USB to RS232 converters and on serial cables.
These pins are used for other inputs and outputs of the ECU. It will hang
the ECU and damage coils or drivers. This does not apply to Spitronics USB
converters.

Make sure that relay
pin numbers of the relay correspond with the drawing. A different relay
may damage the ECU.

Check that coil
connections are secure. Loose connections will damage the internal driver
Mosfets.

Do not connect screen wires on the engine. The
starter will draw current through then melting the harness.

The TPS must be
connected correctly as it may damage the ECU or TPS permanently.

Ensure that wires are kept away from hot or
sharp parts in the engine. Also ensure that engine movement does not put
strain on the wires, as metal fatigue will break the wires in time,
resulting in ECU failure.

Ensure a proper earth between battery negative
and chassis and also between battery negative and the engine. Do not earth
the engine on the body or the body on the engine.

Do not put cutout switches from coil negative
to ground as this may burn the coil permanently. Rather break the supply
line (Red Wire) through a switch so that the module does not have power.

Do not disconnect the battery while engine is
running. The alternator will create high voltage spikes which may damage
the ECU permanently. Ensure that all connections from the battery and
alternator are secure. Also connect the alternator charge wire directly to
battery positive and not to the harness somewhere.

Do not connect the ECU outputs directly to
solenoids or fuel pumps. It is only strong enough to pull in 2 x DC 12V
relays. It can draw only 2A to ground.

Test the coil resistance to see which type
coil you are using and if it is still functional. This is important to
program the correct parameters. See Coil Selection. If you are not sure take it to your agent
for a free test, or start with the lowest Coil Time value namely 2
milliseconds.

The trigger input may not be connected to coil
negative. The high voltage spikes on coil negative will damage the unit
permanently.

Make sure about the correct Jumper Settings before you switch the ignition on.

3. Requirements

3.1 Engine Requirements

We
have to assume the vehicle you are using is either an existing electronic fuel
injection model or has been converted to fuel injection by the addition of a
throttle body, fuel injectors and high pressure fuel pump and filter.

You
need to have the following components fitted: (Available from your agent)

Fuel pump capable of a continuous pressure of 3.5 bar.

Fuel pressure regulator.

Fuel injectors matched to engine requirement.

Throttle body with Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). (optional)

Water temperature sender.

A locked (no internal advance) distributor using either hall,
magnetic or optical signal generation or any Crank Trigger device.

Good quality suppressed HT leads.

Air temperature sensor (optional)

Lambda sensor (optional)

Idle valve or stepper motor (optional)

Notes on Ignition System

The
ECU can be used for fuel control only, provided an ignition pulse output is
supplied to the ECU. This pulse must be a 12V to ground signal and may not be
connected to coil negative. The high voltage spikes on coil negative will
damage the unit permanently. Connecting to an ignition output is necessary to
provide a signal for controlling the injector timing.

It
can also be used for an advanced map-able ignition controller only. You can
accomplish locking a conventional distributor by either welding or bolting the
weights together and disconnecting the vacuum advance unit.

3.2 PC Requirements

Pentium 4 Laptop

Windows XP with service pack 2 or later, Vista or Windows 7. Note
that Vista or Windows 7 do not operate with other than the Spitronics USB
cable. Vista is also not as stable and some laptops struggle to
communicate with USB converters.

Serial Port or USB device with USB to RS232 Converter (19200 baud
rate)

Screen Resolution 1024*768

Ensure that the latest drivers for the PC are installed.

This
software is developed under the latest Delphi environment. It requires a lot of
processing speed and may not run on older computers.

4. Hardware Installation

4.1
Compatibility to the old EMU series

4.2
Harness Selection

4.3 Jumper
Selection

4.4 Installing Procedure of the ECU

4.5 Injectors

4.6 Sensors

4.7 Idle
Control

4.8 Launch
Control

4.9
Micro Fueling

4.10
Additional Wiring

4.11 Coil
Selection

4.12 Setting
Timing

4.13 Fuel
Supply

This chapter tells the user how to install and
wire the TITAN ECU. Be sure to
read precautions before attempting installation. There are a few do’s and
don’ts’ to consider as well.

4.1 Compatibility to the old EMU series

Note that the TITAN ECU may be
connected onto magnetic EMU harnesses directly but that you have to modify all
Hall harnesses. On the 12 way connector Pin 5 must be moved to Pin 11 and Pin 6
must move to Pin12. Failure to do this will damage your sensor permanently. The
old EMU will still work with this cable modification.

The EMU series will not work on the E22 TITAN
series cables. Thus backwards compatibility is possible but not forward
compatibility.

4.2 Harness Selection

The
TITAN
ECU has only two harnesses for all engine configurations. E22 is a
12Way harness that connects all the inputs or sensors to the ECU, and E21 is a
10Way harness that connects all the outputs to the ECU.

·
Magnetic or Hall sensors are selectable on
the ECU with addition of a load resistor to reduce interference.

·
On the 10Way harness the combination of
injectors and coils differ between engines. Connecting a coil on an injector
driver will overcharge the coil and may destroy the driver or coil. Ensure
correct wire selection according to the drawing.

4.3 Jumper Selection

The TITAN ECU has standard harnesses for
all engine configurations. The two basic groups of sensors require 12V for Hall
and Optic sensors and 5V for Magnetic sensors. This selection between the
supply voltages is done by jumper settings. There is also a stronger pull-up
resistor required for the hall or Optic sensors and they are also selected with
the Jumpers. See the illustrations on how to set these jumpers correctly for
you application.

4.3.1 Trigger Sensor

JP 1 and JP2 are used for this pickup.

4.3.2 TDC Sensor

JP 3 and JP4 are used for this pickup.
If this sensor is not used take the Jumpers off or put them in neutral
position.

4.3.3 Magnetic Sensors

With this sensor JP2 & JP4 acts
as a filter resistor which is only used if interference is detected on the RPM
signal.

JP1 & JP2 are always set to 5V as
in the drawing.

4.3.4 Hall / Optic Sensors

With these sensors JP2 & JP4
acts as a Pull-Up resistor which is normally on. If the sensor has a weak
signal these jumpers may be selected to Off to reduce load on them.

JP1 & JP2 are always set to 12V
as in the drawing.

4.4 Installing Procedure of the ECU

Locate a convenient mounting position for the ECU inside the cab
for water protection. Humidity and heavy duty service units are available
on request and will be custom made.

Ensure that the
enclosure of the ECU is grounded with at least two metal screws onto the
metal body of the car. If the ECU is not bolted directly onto an earthed metal surface,
you MUST make sure that you run a 4mm2 ground wire
to one of the ECU’s bolt holes, otherwise your ECU will not power up and
you will damage the MAP sensor permanently. There may flow as much as 30A through the
earth wire.

Connect the two black
wires firmly to the enclosure base. This is the screens of all the cables
and also the ground wires of the TPS Lambda and temperature sensors. Bad
connections may damage the sensors.

Feed all wires of the harness, except the serial cable, through a
hole in the firewall. A good seal around the wiring is necessary to
prevent damage and engine fumes and water from entering the cockpit.

Each cable in the harness is marked to where it has to go. The same
name is on the electrical drawing. Wire colors are marked on the drawing
for specific pin connections. Take special care for TPS wiring as a fault
here may damage the voltage regulator on the ECU.

Pull additional PVC sleeve over the cables for extra protection of
the harnesses.  This sleeve is
customized on your installation and dependant on routing of the cables.

Mount the MAP sensor on the back of the fire wall. It should be
higher than the vacuum takeoff so that fuel condensate in the hose can run
back into the engine and not to the sensor. Try mounting the inlet pipe
downwards to keep the sensor clean.

The screened cables for the sensors must go to the sensor and
connected as close as possible. Connecting these wires to existing harness
on the engine will cause the wires to pick up electrical interference and
cause erratic behavior of the ECU.

No screen wires may be connected or earthed to
the engine. They are connected on the ECU side to the enclosure. On the
Stepper Idle control board the screen wire is connected to 12V. Make sure
it is not earthed.

Test each harness according to the drawing or to the optional test
procedure to ensure correct wiring, before connecting the ECU. This will
indicate installation errors beforehand which may damage the ECU.

Plug the harness into the ECU and taking care not to damage the
pins and connectors. If it is sticky do not force it in. Rather move the
connector slightly from side to side till it mates with the ECU connector
pins.

All power electronic
components such as fuel pumps, coils fans etc must be wired via a relay
circuit directly from the battery with separate fuses in the positive
supply for protection. Do not wire any of these devices directly from the
Ignition switch or on the same circuit as the ECU. This will cause spikes
which may damage or influence correct operation of equipment. Earth
connections must be as short as possible to earth and not connected to a
common earth wire which is connected at a distant ground.

Make sure that the
correct wire thickness is used for each power electronic component. If
wires are common ensure that the wire is thick enough to carry the total
current. Too thin wires will heat up and may start a fire. The same goes
for relays. Be careful of cheap relays. They can seize and start a fire.
Use 0.5mm2 of wire for every 5A of current. Also check pin
numbers of the relays as they differ from one manufacturer to the other.
This mistake may be costly!

Solder each connection
and use shrink sleeve rather than insulation tape. Stagger solder joins so
that they do not sit next to each other. Cover connections and loose wires
with PVC or pigtail sleeve rather than insulation tape.

Ensure that all
electronic settings are correct before connecting the 10Way
connecter.  Certain settings may
damage equipment if not set to recommendations. Especially the coil output
trigger level. Follow the start-up procedure.

Ensure a proper ground
from battery negative to the body and from battery negative to the engine.
This wire must be thick enough to carry the current of all the equipment
in the car.

4.5 Injectors

4.5.1 Wiring

The injectors have
to be wired on the engine. Some of the kits include an injector harness like
the Lexus V8. Make sure that the combination of injectors is correct as this
will influence consistency between cylinders. Injectors come in 2 groups. High
resistance (12 to 18 Ohm) and low resistance (2 to 4 Ohm). For high resistance
injectors you may add up to 4 injectors per channel. They are always connected
in parallel. Low resistor injectors however should be limited to one per
channel. Or they can be connected 2 in series. They should actually be
connected to a different current limiting driver. They may heat up if not
properly cooled and eventually self-destruct. For injector wiring see specific
wiring details on the relevant wiring diagrams on CD.

4.5.2 Sequential injection

There are enough
outputs available for 4 cylinder engines to do sequential injection and wasted
spark. Specific models only. This however will require a TDC signal indicating
that cylinder 1 is on firing and is normally obtained from a separate cam sensor.
Here fuel is injected once every 2 RPM’s and always start at Bottom Deck Centre
(BDC). Since there is not much to gain over the next method, we design most of
the software for Split-Sequential injection. Each injector has its own driver
from the ECU. See the specific wiring diagram.

4.5.3 Split-Sequential
injection

The ECU is
designed to do split-sequential injection. This method will inject on the two
cylinders that move up and down together. It will inject once per RPM and will
start at BDC. Fuel is injected very accurately and excellent CO adjustments can
be achieved. The advantage of this method is that each cylinder receives it
fuel under the same conditions, resulting in very smooth idling and revving. It
is definitely better on power and consumption than the batch injection method.
Injectors are wired in the same sequence as wasted spark. Split the firing
order in 2 and write se second half next to the first half. See example. Then
group the injectors using the first of both halves, then the second then the
third then the fourth. Two injectors are wired on each driver from the ECU. On
the CD are drawings for these injector combinations. See the chart below:

ECU Driver

Wire Color

Firing Order 4 Cyl

Subaru

Firing Order V6 Cyl

Firing Order V6 Cyl

Firing Order Str 6 Cyl

Firing Order 8 Cyl Chev

1342 or 1243

1324

123456

142536

153624

18436572

INJ 1

White

1 & 4

1 & 2

1 & 4

1 & 5

1 & 6

1 & 6

INJ 2

Black

2 & 3

3 & 4

2 & 5

4 & 3

5 & 2

8 & 5

INJ 3

Green

3 & 6

2 & 6

3 & 4

4 & 7

INJ 4

Yellow

3 & 2

Ex: Chev V8 Firing
order:  1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2

1 8 4 3
is 1&6 = White, 8&5 = Black, 4&7 = Green, 3&2 = Yellow

6 5 7 2

4.5.4 Batch fire

With this method,
two injector drivers are being pulsed 180° out of faze. Although not preferred,
fuel metering and timing is done very accurately and should still give
excellent results. Split the injectors in two groups to divide the current on
the 2 driver outputs. Put alternate numbers on the firing order together to
ensure a more even fuel distribution. For bigger engines keep the mean supply
current below 7A. More outputs are available in the intermediate and advance
units. See the specific wiring diagram.

4.5.5 Throttle Body Injection

With this method,
injectors are situated at the throttle body. Spitronics do a Weber 2 Injector
and a Holley 4 Injector conversion. With these conversions injectors is
situated on the top of the butterfly. The ECU also has a special program to
pulse these injectors in sequence and vary the pulses per RPM to get a much
smoother distribution of the fuel mixture. See the specific wiring diagram to
ensure the correct injectors are on the correct drivers. On the CD are drawings
for this injector wiring.

4.5.6 Micro Fueling Injector

The ECU allows for
the use of dual injectors per cylinder as explained in the Setup. Wiring is done
in two ways which differ also with the firmware loaded into the ECU.

If it is set to Driver, then the ECU has drivers
available to operate the extra injectors. Then they are connected in the same
manner as the primary injector. This system is only available for four cylinder
engines with wasted spark coils. Then there are two injectors spare that can be
used. See the Micro Fueling Drawing supplied on CD.

If it is set to GP 1 or 2 then they are tied into the
primary injector on the negative pins. Then their positive pins is powered vie
a separate Mosfet on the positive pins. See the Micro Fueling Drawing supplied
on CD.

4.6 Sensors

There are three groups of sensors for crank angle sensing. Magnetic,
Hall and Optic sensors. Hall and optic sensors both give a square wave output
and are treated exactly the same. They have electronic components in the sensor
which convert the signals to square wave. The Hall sensor uses magnetic field
where optic uses infrared light. In both cases a beam is broken and detected.
Magnetic sensors are just a magnetic coil around a magnet. The metal point
passing this sensor induces a spike which has then to be converted to a square
wave so that the processor can work with it. On the TITAN ECU the all the sensors use the same inputs. They have different supply
voltages which is selectable with jumpers on the PC Board. See the drawing for
correct settings.

4.6.1 Magnetic sensors

These sensors provide
only a voltage spike to the ECU. The ECU will convert this spike to a
usable square wave to be used by the micro processor.

Each sensor has its
own positive and negative wire from the ECU. Do not connect magnetic sensors with common
ground wires. The negative is connected to 5V and will damage the ECU if
connected to ground. Disconnect and isolate it first.

Make sure that the
positives and negatives of the sensors are connected correctly. Changing
them around will retard the timing with revs or may cause the ECU to miss
or backfire.

The ECU has an extra
pull-up resistor of 2.2KOhm set with the jumper which can be set to reduce
interference.

In certain cases a 1 K
ohm resistor may be connected between positive and negative to reduce
spikes in the signal.

Connect the screened
cables from the ECU as close to the sensor as possible. Do not let single
open wires run along the spark plug wires or the coils as this will induce
interference in the ECU causing erratic firing.

Do not connect the
screen to the engine. It is already connected to the body at the ECU.

Do not connect other
devices to this pickup as it will interfere with the signal to the ECU.

Testing a Magnetic sensor

These sensors have a wired coil with a magnet. They normally have two
wires. Some do have 3 wires which have an earth which is not connected to the
coil. The Coil resistance vary from 150 ohm to 1200 ohm typically. If you swap
the tester wires around you would measure the same resistance value. To test
for positive put the meter on milli volts DC. Connect the wires to the coil of
the sensor. Move an iron object to the sensor and look closely at the polarity
indicator. If it indicate positive when moving closer to the sensor and
negative when moving away from the sensor, it means that the red wire of your
meter is on the positive of the sensor. If it is the other way round, then the
black wire is on the positive of the sensor.

4.6.2 Hall & Optic sensors

These sensors already
provide the ECU with a square wave.

Hall sensors work with
magnetic fields but it does not mean it is a magnetic sensor. Failure to
identify this will cause incorrect wiring and no operation.

They have three wires.
Each sensor has a positive (12V), earth and signal out pin. Connecting
these wrong may damage the ECU or the sensor permanently. If you are not
sure which pin is which, ask your agent to bench test it first with
protection resistors to get correct pin-outs.

The ECU has an extra
pull-up resistor of 2.2KOhm set with the jumper. If erratic misfires
occur, another 1K Ohm resister may be connected between the signal and 12V
wire on the sensor.

If the sensor requires
a resistor in the positive wire to limit current, it must be put in
separately.

Testing a Hall or Optic sensor

·

·
These sensors
normally have 3 wires. A supply wire, normally 12V, an earth wire and a signal
out. This sensor has electronic components that require power to operate.
Connecting this sensor wrong my damage it permanently. First test for
resistance on all the pins and swap the test leads around to make sure it is
not a magnetic sensor. Put the meter on diode test and measure voltage drops
over all the pins. You should get V drops between 0.5V to 1.9V. This is your
indicator that you have an electronic unit.

·
Now take 2 x 1K
resistors and tie one end of each to the +12V. This will ensure that if you
connect the supply wrong you will not damage the component as the resistor will
limit the current to 10mA. Now put the ground on one pin and the 2 resisters on
the other pins. Put the meter black wire on earth for the remainder of the
tests. Connect the meter red wire to any of the other pins. Now move an iron
object to the sensor or in the gap and away. If the signal varies between 0V
and 12V then this pin may be the signal output of the sensor. Now put the red
wire on the other pin and repeat the iron process. This voltage should not
change. It may be less than 12V due to the drop over the resistor. If so then
this is the supply pin. With other words one of the resistor pins should
respond rapidly to iron pulses while the other one remains fairly constant.

·
Now change the earth
pin to the next and repeat the process. Note that you may get a similar
reaction if you have the earth and the signal pins wrong. The indicator to see
which one is which is to see which pin reacts the most to the iron pulse. That
pin is the signal output and the other one the earth.

·
Remember this is a
guideline to black box testing and not a failsafe operation. Note point 4 above
and rather consult the specifications from the manufacturer or vehicle
diagrams.

4.6.3 Throttle Position Sensor

·
The TPS must operate through the whole range
of the throttle movement to ensure that the ECU can measure the whole of the
movement.

·
The TPS must be calibrated in the PC software
as certain features like idle control, prime pulse, flood control and fuel
cutoff require certain positions of the throttle to operate correctly. This is
done in the setup menu before starting the engine. (see TPS calibration under Active
Sensors)

·
The sensor is connected to 5V, ground and
signal input. Connecting it wrong may damage the ECU or TPS as you may short the
5V to ground. Test it before you connect it to the ECU.

4.6.4 Testing a TPS for the
Correct Pin-Outs

·

1.    Test the
resistance with an Ohm Meter between 2 pins at a time. Each time move the
throttle open and close. If the resistance do not change and is approx 5000
Ohm, then you found pin A & C. The remaining pin is B which is the wiper.
Mark it as B.

2.    Now test the B pin
with one of the other pins. If it is below 500 Ohms then that pin is C. If it
is above 4500 Ohm that pin is A.

3.    Now to double
check. Measure between B & C. if the throttle is closed the resistance is
below 500 Ohm. If you open the throttle the resistance increases to above 4500
Ohm.

4.    If you measure
between A & C the resistance is around 5000Ohm and does not change with
throttle movement.

4.6.5
Lambda Sensor

For the one wire lambda sensor, connect it to the red wire of the
lambda cable only. For the four wire sensor, connect the sensor wires to
the red and blue wire of the lambda cable. Sensor positive to the red wire
and sensor negative to the blue wire. The element is connected to ground
and the 12V supply from the fuse box that supplies the injectors. (See
drawing). Do not earth the screen or connect the element ground to the
screen. This will induce voltage drops resulting in faulty fuel ratio
readings.

The lambda sensor used by the ECU is a narrow band sensor.

Testing a Lambda Sensor for the
Correct Pin-Outs

Test
the resistance with an Ohm Meter between 2 pins at a time. The element normally
has the same colors and has a resistance of 6 to 12 Ohm. When you find the
element connect it to ground and 12 volt as above. It does not matter which
wire is which as it is only an element. The sensor part can only be measured on
the car when it is working. So connect the two remaining wires to the lambda
cable as explained above. Test it when the engine is hot. If it does not work
swop the sensor wires and test it again. This will not damage the sensor if
connected wrong.

4.6.6 Water and Air Temperature
Sensor

Always use a
2 wire sensor and connect the one wire to the sensors cable white and the
other to the relevant sensor input wire. This will prevent ground
interference with the engine currents. It your sensor is broken you can
replace the water temperature sensor with a 2K NTC Resistor and the air
temperature sensor with a 10K NTC Resistor.
To test them have them at a temperature of 20°C
and then they should read the resistance they are specified for.

4.6.7 Map Sensor

The
map sensor is an external unit and can be any variety. We supply 3 basic types
depending on stock availability or value required by the customer. The sensors
have different values and must be calibrated. The vacuum or boost rating of the
sensor must be entered in the software to get the scales correct. (See Map calibration
under Active Sensors)

Always
connect the Map sensor as close to the engine as possible. Do not join it to
other vacuum lines. It would delay the vacuum signal and cause flat spots or
over fueling. Connect it to a 3 mm minimum ID pipe directly to the intake
manifold.

The most popular one is the GM replacement sensor that comes in
1Bar and 3Bar versions. It may also be soldered to a more popular
connector. Ensure that the wiring for this sensor is correct. Old versions
of the 3Bar was 12V but the new batch is all 5Volt.

The second Map sensor is the Motorola MPX4…AP series. It is a bit
more expensive but more freely available. These are 5V sensors and come in
1Bar and 2.5Bar arrangements. The connector is soldered on in-house and is
different to the first one to the pin configurations. If you have a sensor
with leads, connect the matching colors to each other.

Then there is also a surface mount sensor which is 5V and comes in
1Bar and 3Bar. These ones will be mounted on the unit’s PCB or a separate
housing. No further info available at this time.

You can also use existing map sensors of various engine
manufacturers. Ensure that you have the correct wiring and calibration.

4.7
Idle Control

The
ECU does idle control. The settings for valve and
stepper motors are different. Valve control is done with the ECU GP outputs
while stepper motors require a separate stepper control unit.

For
2 wire idle valves found on most cars, the GP 2 output will be pulse-width
controlled and no separate hardware is required. Only a free wheel diode that
goes over the two pins must be connected. See the drawing supplied on your CD.
There is a black 1N4007 diode supplied in each ECU pack.

Some
3 Wire valves require GP 1 & 2 outputs. These valves have on coil to open
and one to close. It does not have a spring system. These ones can also be done
with the ECU. Normally BMW.

Other
3 wire valves have a spring which keeps it in a certain position. The one coil
opens the valve completely and on coil closes it completely. Here a resistor is
connected to the closing coil and ground to close the valve to reach minimum
idling RPM’s when hot. Then only GP out 2 is used on the coil that opens the
valve. Normally Toyota.

There
is also a back feed Diode required in the ignition supply wire of the 12 Way
connector. See drawing below.

4.7.1
Stepper Idle Valve Computer

This
stepper controller has two types for the two different motors. Bi-Polar Type 2,
and 4 Coil Common Type 1.

This
controller is connected to ignition 12V (Red wire), earth (Black wire) and the
ECU GP output 2 (Green wire). Only on the Lexus it is connected to the green
RPM output. Then it has 5 wires which connect to the stepper motor of the idle
valve. Note however the screen wire in the cable is connected to 12V ignition
and not earth as normal. This is due that there are only 4 wires in the cable.
See the different wiring diagrams on the CD.

On
the idle controller is a LED. When the ignition is switched on the led will be
on for a second. If the engine is started the LED will flash indicating that
the ECU request for the idle valve to open or close. As soon as the set RPM in
the PC software is reached the LED will stop flashing and go off. If RPM’s are
more or less than the set point, the LED will flash again. Note that the TPS
must be calibrated and the throttle must be in closed position (0%) for idle
control to be activated. If the RPM’s fall below the set point, the ECU will
pick it up immediately regardless of the TPS setting.

4.7.2
Throttle Adjustment

The
throttle must be adjusted mechanically to let the engine idle at 100 RPM’s
below the Idle RPM at normal
operating temperature. This will ensure that the engine always have enough air
to keep idling to a minimum, even if the idle valve is completely shut. To do
this you can blank the air intake to the idle valve or stepper motor off and
adjust the mechanical position of the throttle. Or you can enter a value of 100
RPM below mechanical idle RPM into the PC software at Idle RPM so that the idle control does not interfere with
adjustments. Then adjust the throttle to the desired value. Reset the PC Idle RPM to the normal RPM’s again. The
engine must be hot and in neutral or park for this adjustment.

4.8 Launch Control

Launch
control is standard software on all 3 ECU boxes. The buttons however can be
bought optional or made up by you. The launch limits consist of an additional
rev limiter which is lower than the engine protection limiter. It will retard
the timing to a value near TDC and will enrich the fuel mixture by a set
percentage. These three values can be set to the customer specs. If launch is
activated in the software, it can operate on 2 ways:

1.    If only the
dashboard button is connected, it activates while the button is pressed and
deactivate when the button is released. The launch limits are only applied
above 4000 RPM’s.

2.    If the clutch
pedal switch with the 10K resistor is used with the dashboard switch, the
clutch is first pressed to the floor activating the switch. Then the dashboard
switch is pressed latching the launch software. If the revs go above 4000, the
launch limits are activated. The moment the clutch is released, launch control
is deactivated and normal management presumes.

4.8 Micro Fueling

This
feature allows the user to use dual injectors on an engine. Only the primary
injectors operate at low load to ease tuning in town driving or low throttle
driving where on high load the both the primary and secondary injectors operates
to add more fuel for racing or full throttle driving. The TITAN ECU has only 6
drivers, so to activate this feature it uses one of the GP outputs to switch
the power to the secondary injectors on or off. This is done with an external
Mosfet which is purchased separately from the agent. The secondary injector
negatives are connected with the primary injector negatives on the same
cylinders. Note there is a difference in wiring between low and high impedance
injectors. See also the different Software
Settings further in the manual. Below is a sample of
the wiring required for high and low impedance injectors with the Mosfet
Switch. See your CD or contact your agent for more drawings on other engine
combinations if required.

4.10 Additional Wiring

Connect
all wires as per wiring schematic and according to the labels on the wiring
harness.

You
need to get an ignition positive from the cars existing harness and connect
that to the 2 RED power wires of the ECU (one on each of the two connectors),
the gearbox computer (12 way connector) and the Idle computer. Make sure this
is Ignition power and not accessory power. Also ensure that there is no voltage
drop when the system runs.

Connect the green
wire to the green wire of the Idle Control computer and the Gearbox computer.

Rev-Counters

Electronic Rev Counters must be connected to the green rev counter output
wire of the ECU on the 10 way connector. You may also need to add a pull-up
resistor to get it to work correctly. See the drawing below. Also see the
software setup for this output. Note that only on the Lexus V8 Firmware the rev
counter works differently than other programs.

Coil Negative Rev Counters may not work with the above connection
because they require a spike rather than a ground signal. In this case the rev
counter must be connected to coil negative. Then you will have to calibrate the
rev counter or try the circuit below. This circuit will generate a spike for
the rev counter and will work in most cases. If it still does not work try a
220 Ohm 5 watt resistor instead.

Connect
the yellow TPS output wire to the yellow wire from the gearbox computer.

Run
a 2.5mm2 wire from each of the supplied relays pin 30 directly to
the battery positive. Do not common these wires. Now run a 2.5mm2
from pin 87 to the fuse box and then to the injector positives. Do not connect
anything else on this relay or it may lean out fuel mixtures. You may connect
the 4 wire Lambda to this relay as it has a consistent power. Run a 2.5mm2
to the fuel pump and coil positives. Use separate fuses in this wire for
protection in component failure and to protect the ECU. See the wiring
diagrams.

Now
check each wiring circuit with your multi meter as described in the test
procedure for each engine on the two harness connectors. This will indicate
faults in the wiring that may destroy the ECU.

Ensure
that the ECU is grounded properly as per specification. Now only connect the 12
way harness and proceed with the PC setup. After you have wired everything in
as per the schematics, you may now connect your battery’s positive terminal and
turn your ECU on. Again follow the start-up procedure carefully.

Pin References for
the ECU

The
ECU has two connectors for all wiring combinations. A 12 way connector for
power and sensors, and a 10 way connector for all the outputs to the engine.
Note that the ECU connects to ground via the aluminum enclosure. It is not
necessary that all the pins will be used. There may be additional wires on the
drawing that cannot be found on the pin descriptions. This is due to other
connections in the harness to ease with installation. The pin-outs are just for
reference. Please follow the labels on the wiring harness when connecting up
your new ECU. All wires are grouped together for ease of installation.

Figure
shows a view of the 12pin Female Plug on the ECU harness. Note the retaining
clip on top and how the pins are numbered.

12 way connector

1

Air temp sensor

2

TPS sensor

3

MAP sensor

4

Signal Ground

5

Sensor2 Supply +

6

Sensor1 Supply +

7

Water Temp
Sensor

8

Lambda Sensor

9

5 Volt Output

10

12V Ignition In

11

Sensor 2 Input

12

Sensor 1 Input

Figure
shows a view of the 10pin Female Plug on the ECU harness. Note the retaining
clip on top and how the pins are numbered.

10 way connector

1

Coil 2 -

2

Injector 3
-   (Coil 4 -)

3

Injector 1
-

4

Fuel Relay -

5

Gen Purpose Out
1 -

6

Coil 1 -

7

Coil 3 -         (Injector 4 -)

8

Injector 2
-

9

RPM Trigger
Output to ground

10

Gen Purpose Out
2 -

4.11
Coil Selection

It is important to
know which coil is on the engine as a faulty setting here may destroy the ECU
driver or coil. Always start the ECU with a disconnected 10Way connecter till
you set the Trigger
Level Output to the correct setting. Also start with a 5A
Fuse which will blow quickly if you have the setting wrong.

4.11.1 Basic Coil

This ignition is
designed to use electronic as well as external ballast resistor coils as is
found with the point-condenser systems. This point-condenser coil has a
resistance of +/- 1.5 ohm and a charge-time of 7 m/s. Do not connect the
ballast resistor.

Electronic
ignition coils were designed for variable dwell systems to improve spark at
high Rpm’s. They have a resistance of +/- 0.8 ohm It will improve over the
spark of the ballast coil with this ignition especially for V8’engines. It has
a charge time of 3 to 5 m/s.

Another coil on
the market has the ballast resistor built in (+/- 3.5 ohm). This will give a
poor spark at cold starting or high Rpm’s. These coils are not recommended for
performance engines and 6 Cylinders or higher. These coils have a charge time
of 9 m/s. For all of the above coils the ECU Trigger Level Output must be set to internal so that the ECU charge
the coil with a negative pulse and fire it with a positive going pulse.

4.11.2 Composite Coil

These
hard resin coils consist of single, wasted spark combination or multi coils in
a single housing, and some have built in driver electronics. If it has no
driver there is usually a common pin and one pin for each coil. To measure this
coil put the meter on Ohms and measure all the points. You should get a 0. 8Ohm
reading for each coil. If you measure over the two coils it should read 1.6
Ohm. For all of the above coils the ECU Trigger Level Output must be set to internal so that the ECU charge
the coil with a negative pulse and fire it with a positive going pulse.

4.11.3 Electronic Coils

If
you measure high resistances or open circuit, then the coils has an internal
driver. These coils normally have a positive, ground and trigger input for each
coil. These coils are normally charged with a positive pulse and fired with a
negative going pulse. Using these coils with the ECU requires an external
resistor between the trigger and positive of the coil. The reason is that the
ECU only gives a ground signal for normal coils. For all these coils the ECU Trigger Level Output must be set to external so that the ECU charge
the coil with a positive pulse and fire it with a negative going pulse. These Coils with internal drivers can be
connected two coils per output. You must add a pull-up resistor per driver and
make sure on the firing order that these coils move up en down simultaneously.

4.12
Setting Timing

4.12.1 Setting Distributor
Timing and Rotor Fazing

This setup for
distributors with Rotors requires 2 settings. One is to align the rotor with
actual crank degrees and the other is to align the software with the sensor
timing.

Rotor
Fazing

Rotor fazing is a mechanical
adjustment to ensure that the Rotor is under the relevant high tension pole
during the spark generation. If it is not under the pole, the spark will have
to jump the gap in the distributor which will cause less energy at the spark
plug. It will also generate interference on the sensors causing erratic
misfires. As most cars operate between 14 and 36 °BTDC you must ensure that the
Rotor is under the pole during this span. That is why we use 25° to place the
Rotor under the Pole. Then it can advance a total of 11 degrees, up to 36° or
retard a total of 11 degrees, down to 14° and still have contact between rotor
and pole. See Illustration below:

Rotate the engine
so that the static timing mark is at 25° BTDC. If the marks does not go that
far take the 12° mark and multiply the distance on the pulley or plate by 2. If
you are not sure if No 1 piston is on fire, unscrew No 1 plug and blow through a
rubber pipe into the cylinder. If no air can be blown into the cylinder then
both valves are closed and the piston is on fire stroke. Otherwise turn the
crank on full turn to the timing mark and check again. Put the distributor into
the hole and ensure that the rotor is positioned under plug wire of piston No
1. If the distributor does not want to go in completely, it may be stuck on the
oil pump shaft. Rotate the engine it a bit holding the distributor in place
till it mates with the oil pump. Also note that the rotor rotates in one
direction as it is inserted. Take it back to the 25° mark. Now turn the
distributor till the rotor is exactly under the no 1 pole. Lock the distributor
nut properly and ensure that wiring is tied in the correct manner to prevent
damage or strain due to engine movement. NB! Do not adjust the distributor again.
Rotor fazing is now complete.

Software Sensor Timing

This setting,
Timing Sensor °BTDC, will tell the software at what degrees the sensor is
situated. The ECU will calculate from this position where to advance or retard
the timing to ensure that the Map Timing is accurate with the actual timing on
the engine.

In the PC software
you must enter the Timing Sensor °BTDC for the specific distributor. If it has
a standard magnetic pickup it usually is around 24 ° BTDC. Note however that if
you are converting your distributor then a 0 or 1 ° fazing for the sensor is
preferable.

To check if this
setting is correct disconnect the injector fuses and crank the engine with a
timing light. See if the light flahes between 5 and 10°. If not adjust the
value till it does.

Now you can start
the engine. It should start easy and run smoothly. Should the engine tend to
stop during cranking, it means the timing is too fast. Increase this value 10°
at a time. Should it sound as if it wants to start but dies, it means that the
timing may be too slow. Decrease this value 10° at a time. If there is a
misfire of any sort, stop immediately and do faultfinding. It may be that the
magnetic pickup is wired wrong causing the spark to fire between the poles. If
it is a hall or optic sensor the timing edge may be wrong. See edge setting
under active sensors.

After the engine
has started, check with a timing light that your engine timing correlates with
the software timing block. If not adjust the Timing Sensor °BTDC value until
they match. Now perform a normal timing adjustment according to the PC timing
on the timing maps. Note that adjustable timing light can be misleading on
wasted sparks system. Divide the timing light degrees by two.

Listen for spark
in the distributor cap. If you hear a spark then the fazing degrees are wrong
and there is a gap between rotor and pole. An old cap with a hole across one of
the poles can be used. Flash the timing light into the hole to check for
correct rotor position. Incorrect fazing will also hang the Laptop and freeze
the PC Software.

4.12.2 Setting Crank Trigger Timing

This trigger
consist of a single sensor and some form of crank gear like 60-2 or 36-1 etc.
this setup requires 2 kinds of settings. One is on which teeth after the slot,
TDC is located. The other setting is a fine tune setting between the teeth to
correctly align software timing with engine timing.

If you can see the
gear put the engine on TDC. Count the number of teeth from the sensor to the
slot in a clockwise direction. Enter this number of teeth in the software under
Gear Teeth. Enter 0 in Timing Sensor °BTDC field. The car should start. Check
with the timing light to see if the software timing correlates with the engine
timing. If the difference is less than the tooth pitch degrees, adjustments can
be made on the Timing Sensor °BTDC field. Otherwise add or subtract one tooth
and try again. If you can’t see the gear you can enter speculative values in
Gear Teeth. Disconnect the injector fuses and crank with a timing light. Start
with 4 and increase 2 at a time. When it flashes around 10 degrees save and
proceed with starting.

If a magnetic
pickup is used, ensure that the positive and negative of the magnetic sensor
are correct. If they are connected wrong way round, the timing will retard
instead of advance and the fazing will be wrong. Sometimes the engine will
start but it may not rev up. You can also see this on the software if the rpm
bar jumps erratic between two values not next to each other.

In some cases the
teeth count between the slot and the sensor on TDC may be larger than crank
fire pitch. The crank fire pitch can be calculated by the total teeth of the
gear, (missing ones included) multiply by 2 divide by the no of cylinders. This
means that a 60-2 gear for a 6 cylinder engine is 60*2/6=20.

If the teeth
between the sensor and slot is ex 25 then you set it at 5 (teeth – pitch) and
change the coil wires in sequence. Coil 1 connects to driver 2, coil 2 connects
to driver 3 and coil 3 connects to driver 1.

If the teeth
between the sensor and slot is ex 47 then you set it at 7 (teeth – 2*pitch) and
change the coil wires in sequence. Coil 1 connects to driver 3, coil 2 connects
to driver 1 and coil 3 connects to driver 2.
For more info in this please see the drawings supplied on CD.

The trigger point of the sensor is the centre of the sensor to the last
edge of the tooth or trigger plate (Trigger Edge 0°). On a 36-1 gear the pitch
is 10 degrees. To ajust the Timing BTDC block you can guess a setting for the
centre of the pickup between the trigger edges of the adjacent teeth. See the
sketch below. When the engine is running, adjust it till the software correlates
with the timing light.

4.12.3 Setting Toyota 24Pulse +
TDC Timing

This is a standard
setup for most Toyota engines. There is a 24 teeth gear and a TDC reference
signal. If it has a Rotor and single coil, first do rotor fazing as described
above under Rotor
Fazing. Then put the engine on the TDC mark. Now
count the number of teeth that passed the 24 Pulse-sensor since the TDC teeth
past the TDC Pulse-sensor. If it is difficult to understand rotate the engine
anti clockwise until the TDC tooth is across the sensor. Now turn the engine
clockwise and count the number of teeth that passes the 24 Pulse-sensor, till
you reach TDC mark. Enter this value in Gear Teeth. To check if this setting is
correct disconnect the injector fuses and crank the engine with a timing light.
See if the light flashes between 5 and 10°. If not adjust the value till it
does.

The car should
start. Check with the timing light to see if the software timing correlates
with the engine timing. If the difference is less than 30°, adjustments can be
made on the Timing Sensor °BTDC field. Otherwise add or subtract one tooth and
try again. If you can’t see the gear you can enter speculative values in Gear
Teeth. If the engine stops suddenly when cranking, it means that timing is too
fast. Increase the number of teeth and try again.

If the engine has
coil packs then rotor fazing is no problem. If the trigger system can be
adjusted, put the engine on TDC and align the TDC mark on the dizzy, up with
the TDC sensor. Enter 1 in Gear Teeth and 0 in Timing Sensor °BTDC field. Start
the engine and adjust the dizzy for timing alignment of the software and
engine. If the trigger system cannot be adjusted, put the TDC trigger in line
with the sensor and turn the engine clockwise to TDC marks as the above setup
procedure of counting the teeth and fine adjustment.

Ensure that the
positives and negatives of the magnetic sensors are correct. If they are
connected wrong way round, the timing will retard instead of advance and the
fazing will be wrong. Sometimes the engine will start but it may not rev up. In
some cases the teeth count may be larger than crank fire pitch. Then you may
have to change the coil pack wiring sequence to remedy the problem.

Sometimes the gap
in the pickup and rotor needs to be smaller. Adjust it so that it just clears
the rotor without touching. In case of 2 TDC pickups, they can be put in
parallel as on the drawing. In some cases the signal may be week and requires
you to disconnect 1 of the pickups.

4.12.4 Setting Nissan Optic
Slots Timing

This
is a standard setup for most Nissan engines. There is a metal disk with 360
fine slots and large slots equaling the number of cylinders. It has two optical
sensors. The ECU uses only the large slots. If the system has a rotor and
single coil, do the setup and rotor fazing as described above under Rotor
Fazing.

If it has coil
packs put the engine on the TDC marks. Adjust the dizzy to be in the middle of
the fasten bolt and slot grove. Now adjustments can be made on the Timing
Sensor °BTDC field to get the engine to start. Remember that under active
sensors set the trigger level to positive edge. To check if this setting is
correct disconnect the injector fuses and crank the engine with a timing light.
See if the light flashes between 5 and 10°. If not adjust the value till it
does.

If the engine
stops during cranking it means the timing is too fast. Increase the value and
try again. Once the engine starts, check with the timing light and fine tune
this value so that the ECU timing correlates to the real timing. If the engine
back-fires the coil sequence may be incorrect. Check the wiring diagram and
change the wiring on the coil packs.

4.13
Fuel Supply

This is not really
part of the ECU but it is a vital system which is the cause for many problems
in the operation of the ECU. Please take time to ensure this system is properly
set up as the ECU has no control over it. The only indication for problems here
is the Lambda sensor. If the fuel pressure drops, or becomes erratic due to air
in the system, the Lambda value will go lean. This will cause power loss and
slight backfires which may sound like timing.

When converting an
engine from a carburetor normally present a problem. The pipe from the tank is
too thin and fuel must be sucked from the top. Fuel injection systems are
normally gravity feed and have poor suction capabilities. This system requires
a lot of fuel to maintain a constant pressure of 2.5 to 3.5bar on the fuel
rail. A lot of fuel is returned to the tank via the pressure regulator.

This can be
partially overcome by teeing the return line in before the pump instead of letting
it go to the tank. You still have the suction problem and if there is air in
the system, it has to go out via the injectors.

If the pump has
enough pressure but lacks in flow rate, it will cause the fuel mix to go lean
and loose power under heavy load conditions at high RPM’s.

These pumps get damaged
by dirt, water and air bubbles. It is good practice to put an inline filter in
front of the pump to ensure that dirt does not go through the pump. This will
also indicate if air is in the system as most filters are see-through.

Do not install the
pump next to the exhaust for it will run too hot.

Ensure that return
lines are thick enough.

5. Software Installation

5.1 PC Software installation

The
PC Software does not require installation. It is an executable file and can run
from any memory medium. See PC Requirements however. The
software will create an ecu.ini file in the same directory
where your software is run from. This is to save your preferred settings in the
software. When you start the software for the first time, it will prompt you to
accept the Terms & Conditions as laid out by Spitronics Micro Ignitions cc.
Read these conditions carefully and if you agree you may except the terms and
continue to work on the ECU. If you press cancel the program will close. If you
load a new manual it will ask you to agree to the terms and conditions again.

There
is also an html help file. When you click on manual button,

guide
the software to this file and then you can access the manual from the PC
software.

5.2 Spitronics USB driver installation

Go
to the Spitronics USB Driver file on the CD. Activate the USB Setup.exe file.
The software will install automatically. It may take a couple of minutes on
slower laptops. Now insert the USB cable into the PC. Windows will detect the
cable and install the driver for it. If it does not connect to the ECU see Changing the Com Port Settings below.

5.3 RS232 Computer to ECU interface

The
ECU communicates to the computer via the serial RS232 interface. It operates at
19200 baud rate. See the drawing for connection diagrams.

Communication
can also be achieved by USB via a USB to RS232 converter cable. Ensure that the
drivers for the cable are installed according to
manufacturer specifications. When using other than Spitronics cables, you have
to break out pin 1,4,6,7,8 & 9 as they are used for other inputs and
outputs such as for  programming the ECU
as well as the launch control buttons. See drawing. On a serial connector
provision is made for hardware handshaking on printers etc. It is not used for
these management electronics. The Spitronics USB converter you do not have to
break out the pins as they are internally disconnected.

Note: These cables are optional and can be
bought from the agent, computer shop or made in some cases.

The settings for the USB cable must be the same as above. Note that the
Com port must be Com 1 to 10. Higher numbers will not be detected.

6. Software Operation and Setup

6.1
Button Description

6.2 Connecting
a PC to the ECU

6.3 Changing
the USB Comport in Windows Device Manager

6.4
Memory operation of the ECU

6.5
Security and Passwords of the ECU

6.6 Selecting Different Pages in the Software

This
chapter will explain how the software operates and how to set it up for your specific
engine. The ECU comes preconfigured so that you don’t have to go through the
tedious process of configuring all the different parameters, to get the engine
to start. There are however certain checks on different engines to get the ECU
to work properly. Failure to do this may damage the ECU or components of the
engine which will solely be your responsibility. Refer to the drawings of your
model to see if your engine has a special setup procedure.

6.1 Button Description

Open a saved MAP from the hard disk into the
PC Software.

Save MAP data from the PC or ECU on the hard
disk.

Print MAPS to a printer.

Read the data MAP from the ECU into the PC
Software.

Write to ECU – Write de ECU
data into the Flash memory to make the changes permanent.

Lock the Data Maps and change
the Customer Code.

Enable or disable the mouse pad for
adjustments on the tuning graphs.

Developer and TCU Information.

Quit the Program.

Change the tuning maps to the
active real-time graph.

ECU is Online and can be
adjusted.

ECU is offline.

6.2
Connecting a PC to the ECU

Connect
the optional serial cable or RS232 converter cable to your laptop or PC and to the
ECU. (Remember to break out pins 1,4,6,7,8 & 9  if it is not a Spitronics USB converter)

Switch
the ignition on and check if the yellow LED is on. Open the ECU PC software. If
the ECU is connected the PC software will detect it on the Com port
automatically and connect to it. If it did not, check your connections again.
Note that if you use the USB converter cable, that the com port must be Com 10
or lower. You can correct this in the Device Manager of Windows XP.
You are now ready to begin with the tuning on your ECU.

6.3 Changing the USB Comport in Windows Device Manager

One
some laptops, Windows will install the USB on a Com Port higher than 10. This
is a Windows driver problem and then the Com Port is not detected
automatically. You need to change it to lower than 11. Follow these steps:

1.    Left click on
Start (left bottom)

2.    Right Click on My
Computer (or in desktop My Computer)

3.    Click on
Properties

4.    Click on Hardware

5.    Click on Device
Manager

6.    Click on Ports
(Com & LPT)

7.    Right Click on
Prolific USB to Serial Com Port (Com 11or higher)

8.    Click on
Properties

9.    Click on Port
Settings

10. Click on Advance

11. Select a Com Port
lower than 11 (if all is in use choose 5 to 10 and press OK)

12. Click on OK and
close

6.4 Memory operation of the ECU

The
figure below indicates how the ECU operates with temporary and permanent
memory. When the ECU is powered up, it will take the data maps from the
permanent FLASH memory and save it in the temporary RAM memory. This RAM is
used by the processor for operation and the Laptop for tuning. When the user
changes the maps, the processor will immediately start working with the new
data changed in the RAM.

6.4.1 Saving data in the ECU

Once
the user is satisfied with his changes he must save his changes in the FLASH
memory in the ECU, by pressing the Write
to ECU

button. Now the data is stored permanently and
the ignition can be switched off. If he does not save this data in flash, all
his changes will be lost when the ECU power is switched off. When data is
written to the ECU flash, the processor will cut-out for about half a second
causing the engine to lose power. This will not happen during normal tuning.
This is done so that the user knows his data is saved.

The
laptop memory will have the same information in its RAM when the maps are
uploaded after the PC software is started. If the car is switched off without
saving, the operator may switch the ECU on and press the Write to ECU button. This will save the copy of the data in the
Laptop RAM into the ECU FLASH memory. This is also how you can save your map in
another ECU if you don’t want to save to hard disk first.

If
you changed data and quit the program or switch the ECU off without saving the
data in the flash, the software will prompt you to take action with one of the
following blocks so that the data will not be lost.

6.4.2 Saving a Map to the PC

The
user may also save the Laptop RAM or ECU data to the hard disk so that the maps
maybe recalled later or if different settings are desired. This is done by
pressing the Save Settings

button.

The
user has the option of saving the Ram data on the PC or the real-time ECU data.
This feature is useful if you want to change Map data offline. Simply open a
Map file, edit it and save it back to the hard disk.

6.4.3 Loading a Map from the
hard disk onto an ECU

First
connect to the ECU. Then press the Open
file

button. Press the

button to connect to the TCU. Select Down Load to TCU button and then press
the Write to ECU

button. The data will now be written into the
ECU flash memory. Note that the serial number is not written in the process
although for this session the serial number is the same as the Map serial
number. Once the software is closed and restarted, the ECU serial number will
be displayed. Also note that if an incorrect version of the map is loaded, a
check box will warn you of it.

6.5 Security and Passwords of the ECU

The
ECU has built in security functions to protect tuning Maps, the Customer Code
and to unlock features which were not required at the purchase of the ECU.

·
The tuning MAP on the ECU can be locked to
prevent other users from copying it or changing settings on it. This feature is
to let engine builders install protection settings on the ECU for guarantee
purposes. Note however that you can overwrite the code by loading another MAP
onto the ECU. This would however indicate to the agent that tampering took
place and may void warrantees.

·
The Agent has the option of changing the
customer code for his reference. He can protect it with a password and leave
the maps open. It would mean however that the customer cannot lock his own maps
under the code as they use the same code for protection.

·
The customer may upgrade the ECU Type or
unlock features that have to be paid separately. He will require a password
which can be purchased from the manufacturer, which he then enter and upgrade
the ECU automatically.

6.5.1 Locking a MAP on the ECU

Press
the

button and enter a password twice. Select
which protection is required. Press Lock, Exit and then press the Write to ECU

button to save it to the Flash memory.

6.5.2 Change the Customer Code
on the ECU

To
change the Customer code, you need to put in the Agent Password in the Code
block only and then click on Change Customer Code tab. This password is only
supplied to the agents by the manufacturer.

6.5.3 Tuning a Locked ECU

Each
time you connect to the ECU the following message will appear and you need to
enter the Lock password to enter into the tuning maps. If you don’t have the
password, you can press the Clear Maps tab and load an open map into the ECU.
Press the Write to ECU

button to save the new map in the ECU. Note
that the current tuning maps will be erased permanently. All the passwords will
be cleared when you restart. Remember this may void any warranties from the
agent as he will see that there was tampered in the software.

6.5.4 Un-locking a MAP on the ECU

To
unlock the ECU, enter the same password that you used to lock it, in the Code
block. Press the Unlock ECU tab and then Exit. If you press the Write to ECU

button, the maps will stay open at the next
restart.

6.5.5 Upgrade or Unlock ECU
Features

This
Unlock ECU Functions feature will activate or upgrade certain features of the
ECU. First enter the activation password and then press the Unlock ECU
Functions button. Now enter the functionality password obtained from the
manufacturer. Restart the ECU and software and ne new features will be enabled.

6.6 Selecting Different Pages in the Software

6.7 Start  (F1)

6.8 Setup  (F2)

6.9 Maps  (F3)

6.9.5 Logger
(F4)

6.9.6 Manual  (F5)

Press
on any of these buttons to activate the different pages in the software. By
pressing the alt button you will see the hot keys for these buttons.

The
hot keys are easier to press during driving.

6.7 Start  (F1)

This
is where the program will start the first time. On this page all the action
events is logged for information. It will also display the ECU information of
the current ECU. Take note of the Warning as it
is important and binding by Law. See the Terms & Conditions on our website.

6.7.1 Version Numbers

The
designer reserve the right to do changes to existing designs and harnesses as
he keeps on developing software and hardware. The market change all the time as
new ideas submerges. The ECU has a version number system so that the user knows
which drawings, and also which Tuning MAP goes with which ECU firmware. There
is also a document on the CD which explains about the hardware and software
changes made between different versions (TITAN Version
Changes.pdf).

ECU Version will indicate the
product namely TITAN and which model is connected. Models are Standard,
Intermediate or Advance.

Firmware Release is the hardware,
firmware and software release information. This is very important as it must
coincide with the PC software. It is also written with a permanent marker on
the enclosure but this my rub off during installation.

2.2.2.A In the sample
means: PC Software Ver. 2, Hardware number 2 (Titan), Protocol Ver.2, Firmware
Ver. A.

The
PC software also has a version number in the name part of the file or on the
Top information bar. Keep older versions for old ECU versions. ECU firmware can
be upgraded by an agent to accommodate changes in the latest PC software.
Version 2.2 ECU must be programmed with Ver. 2.2 PC software. Older version
software than Ver.1.13 will open and change parameters but will not be able to
save the data. From Ver.1.14 software will also warn if incompatible ECU
firmware is used. The alphabetic number will indicate later version changes in
the ECU or PC but does not change the protocol of Ver.2.2 software. This may
differ from software to ECU but does not matter.

Program is a number given
to each ECU firmware program to identify them apart. Behind the number is a
short explanation of the type of program On the CD a list of these numbers
available (Program Numbers.txt).

Serial Number is keep track of
each ECU sold. It is also engraved on the enclosure of the ECU. The number for
ex PP-PP-999999-15 means as follows:

PP
– Agent which this unit was distributed to

PP
– Customer which this unit was sold to – this can be changed by the Agent for
his own reference.

999999
– serial number

15
– model function no

ECU
model function numbers are as follows:

3          Standard ECU

11        Intermediate ECU

15        Advance ECU

6.8 Setup  (F2)

6.8.1 Engine Setup (Alt 1)

6.8.2 Timing Setup
(Alt 2)

6.8.3 Fuel Setup  (Alt 3)

6.8.4 Sensor Setup
(Alt 4)

6.8.5
Turbo Setup (Alt 4)

6.8.6 Real-Time Data and Bars

Click
on the setup tab to get information on the configuration of your engine. Most
parameters are being preset before the ECU has been shipped. Ensure that these
settings are correct as some may damage components on your engine or the ECU
itself.

Click
on of these icons to adjust different settings in the setup page. Activate the
Hot-Key by pressing the Alt button plus the correlating number as in the icon
block.

6.8.1 Engine Setup (Alt 1)

6.8.1.1 Map Information

The
Map information screen contains info for which customer and vehicle the maps
have been done. It saves in the ECU and PC. This is used to identify different tuning
maps from each other. It does not affect any tuning on the engine.

6.8.1.2 Engine Configuration

Cylinders – 2,3,4,5,6,8 or
12 cylinders can be typed in this block, depending on the engine specific ECU. Most
ECU firmware will over-write this block at start-up.

Map sensor – adjusts the map
sensor range that you use e.g.  1bar =
10, 2.5bar=25. If you have a 2.5 bar sensor but you only use 0.5 bar boost,
enter a value of 15 for 1.5 bar and calibrate the MAP sensor so that you are
able to make full use of the complete vacuum range for correction adjustment.
See Active sensors and Calibrate further in the manual. These
changes only take effect when you Exit
and start the PC software again.

RPM range – set the rpm
maximum RPM that you want to map the ECU at e.g. redline starts at 6500rpm add
500rpm and type in 7000 for the rpm range. These changes only take effect when
you Exit and start the PC software
again.

6.8.1.3 Engine Configuration

Spare – Reserved for
future use.

RPM limiter – This will set
the maximum rpm for the soft engine limiter in 100 RPM intervals. The ECU will
first retard the timing in three stages and then after 300 RPM over this limit
will cut the fuel completely. The spark however will not be cut. This will
prevent fuel from entering the exhaust and backfire there.

6.8.1.4 General Purpose Outputs

There
are two general outputs to configure for several different functions. These
outputs can be configured to use one of the analogue signals and switch a relay
on or off when certain limits have been reached.

Example:  RPM for a shift light, RPM or TPS to switch
nitrous on, water temp to control a fan relay. Also set the appropriate values
in the min and max blocks e.g. shift light – min 5000 max 8000. The light will
switch on at 5100 RPM’s and switch off at 8100 RPM’s. If the min value is
smaller than the max value, the relay will switch on between the limits. If the
minimum value is higher than the max value, the relay will switch off between
the limits. Note also that the relay will switch on at the value + 1 increment
and off at the value – 1 increment. Thus for example if you select RPM and set
4000 and 5500, it means that the relay will switch on at 4100 and 5400 and off
at 3900 and 5600 rpm’s.

Note
that on GP 1 the water temp works different from all the other logics. The
output will go on when Max + 1 is reached and go off when Min – 1 is reached.
This is to allow the tuner to set a dead band value for the fan to start and
stop. This will prevent the fan from start and stopping too much.

Note! The idle control
also uses these outputs. For idle control the setting must be set to Idle Control and then the parameters
will be set on the Idle Control field.
The Min and Max values does not affect the idle control operation. They are not
used.

Note! The Micro Fueling
can also use these outputs and the take priority. If it is activated there the
selection will be off and the values ignored. The Min and Max values does not
affect the Micro Fueling operation. They are not used.

Note! Only on the Lexus
program GP 2 can be used for RPM calibration for different rev counters. This
is due to the fact that the gearbox and idle control use the normal RPM output.
Set it to RPM and then set the Pulses / RPM for the required rev counter.

The
following values need to be set for the different conditions:

RPM – RPM/min 100rpm
increments

Lambda – voltage
0.01volt increments

Vacuum – pressure 10 Kpa
increments

Water temp – degrees at 1°C
increments

TPS – percentage at
1% increments

Air temp – Degrees at 1°C
increments

Idle Control – if idle control
is used

This
block is for Rev counter calibration. You can adjust the number of pulses per
revolution which is handy for engine conversions.

6.8.2 Timing Setup  (Alt 2)

6.8.2.1 Timing Configuration

Maximum Timing – this is the max
timing allowed by all the timing maps combined.

Coil time – 2ms to
5ms. This is the maximum charge time that the user can select. The ECU will
vary the charge time automatically according to vacuum load from 2ms to the
user selected value. If the ECU heats up it is a result of too large charge
times. 3.5 is a preferred starting value.

Rotary Trailing Degrees – set the
trailing timing for rotary engines

Low / High Vacuum Timing Split – this sets the
RPM split between the Low & High Vacuum Timing maps.

6.8.2.2 Crank Angle Sensor

Gear Teeth – set the amount
of teeth to align the crank sensor with ignition timing. Refer to the
installation section “Setting Crank Trigger Timing”

Timing sensor °BTDC – set the
correction factor here to line timing up with timing light. Refer to the
installation section “Setting Distributor Timing and Setting
Crank Trigger Timing”

6.8.2.3 Coil Combination

Coil combination – select the type
of coil combinations you are using if not preset. On most ECU’s this is
determined by the firmware loaded into it and cannot be adjustable.

Two Stroke – this will
select 2 or 4 stroke to correct injector % indication bar. It will be forced on
or off from the ECU. If it is on 4 stroke the injector time is calculated over
2 RPM’s while on 2 stroke the injector time is calculated over 1 RPM. If you
have an engine that does not rev high and the injectors is too small you may
put it on 2 stroke to double the injector time. Note however the injector %
during tuning not to go over 100% as this will occur at lower RPM.

6.8.2.4 Coil Driver Trigger Level

Coil Driver Trigger Level– this setting is
very important and a mistake here can damage the ECU or Coil. If you have a
coil with no driver in the coil, use internal
setting. If you use a TP100 or have an internal driver in the coil use External setting with a pull-up
resistor. To change this setting, click on internal or external and type in
YES. Then save

the
data to the ECU.

NB! This setting must
be done before the ECU 10 way connector is connected.

6.8.3
Fuel Setup (Alt 3)

6.8.3.1 Fuel Configuration

Start enrichment – Set a value in
milliseconds here for start enrichment. This enrichment is added to the
calculated fuel when the engine is started. It will then be phased out in a
certain RPM’s.

Max Fueling – Set a value in
milliseconds here for the max amount of fuel allowed to your engine during
running. This value is calculated as the time it takes for 2 crank revolutions
at maximum RPM. The example is an engine doing 6500 RPM max. For Two-stroke
engines this value will be half.

Start Prime Pulse – This setting in
milliseconds is the initial fuel that will be squirted in the engine to ease
starting. It is only injected once the engine is cranked and not when the
ignition is switched on. Half of this value will be squirted every time the
fuel pedal is pressed more than 25%. This feature is handy on very cold days
for starting.

Idle Cut-off TPS – This setting is
used for the idle control. The ECU will not control the idle motor if the TPS
value is not below this value. It would however raise the RPM whenever the
engine RPM falls below the set point under idle control.

Fuel Cut-off - This feature will
cut the fuel supply when the engine is running against compression. This is
useful in town and downhill driving and will save fuel. It will also prevent
flaming in the exhaust during accelerator blip. Fuel Cut-off will only be
activated when both of the following criteria are met. There is a dead band
feature built into these settings to prevent jerking when cruising close to the
parameters.

Fuel Cut-off Vac –The MAP sensor
value must be less than this setting.

Fuel Cut-off RPM –The engine RPM
must be more than this setting.

The
TPS value has no affect on this function.

Injection Degrees –This setting
will adjust at which degrees injection will begin. Not all firmware will allow
this value to be changed

6.8.3.2 Fuel Map

These
limits are used to select between the four RPM fuel correction maps. They are
displayed on the vacuum map as three blue arrows. When the vacuum signal passes
these arrows, a different RPM correction map is used.

The
RPM correction maps are divided in four groups of map values. A low, cruise,
high cruise and high map.

The
Low map – this is the map for low throttle cruising or idle

The
Cruise map – this is the map for normal cruising

The
High Cruise map – this is the map for high throttle cruising

The
High map is used for Wide Open Throttle (WOT) conditions.

6.8.3.3 Injection Type

Injection Type – This setting is
an indication of what type of fuel injection setup the ECU was programmed for.
On some models this may be adjustable depending on the firmware.

·
Batch Injection will pulse all the
injectors for all the cylinders at the same time.

·
Split Batch Injection will pulse two sets of
injectors 180° apart from each other.

·
Split Sequential Injection will pulse two injectors
per driver together for the two cylinders that move at the same strokes. It
will follow the sequence of the firing order.

·
Full Sequential Injection will pulse one injector
per driver in the same sequence as the firing order. Here a cam pulse or home
signal is required.

6.8.3.4 Fuel Calculation

Fuel Calculation – This setting is
to allow the tuner to choose Map sensor calculation or Throttle sensor
calculation or a split of both signals.

·
Map sensor is the preferred one as it is a
direct representative of the air intake and load of the engine. It can also
compensate for sea level differences. It is also the easiest way to tune the
engine.

·
TPS sensor on the other hand is used when
performance cams are used for racing or if the engine has separate throttle
bodies and no mean engine vacuum chamber. Here the throttle position in
conjunction with RPM is used to calculate engine vacuum. It is a bit more
difficult to tune but can be done. A disadvantage is that it cannot compensate
for sea level correction. The TPS is calibrated as normal to allow the tuner to
make use of the full graph. Then the TPS signal is projected in the Map
sensor’s graphs.

·
Both is the popular setting where the engine has
racing cams and does not generate low manifold pressure during low RPM’s. Here
you can blend the TPS signal and Map signal in at a certain RPM’s to get the
correct A/F mixture during idling without losing the economy at normal driving.
First you determine at which RPM the manifold pressure starts to increase when
the idling RPM is decreased. This is determined with the engine running in
neutral. Now set a value in the Fuel
Cut-off RPM block just higher than this value. When the RPM’s fall below
this value, the TPS signal will be projected on all the vacuum maps. The vacuum
bar will not fall below the Fuel Cut-off
Vac value when the throttle is released. Choose a value where the engine
would idle with a normal cam. It is usually around 0.18 Bar. This will let the ECU
calculate a fuel value with the help of the idling jet setting, to determine
the correct fuel mix when the throttle is released. When the throttle is
pressed, the bar will move from this position to the right of the graph so that
no flat spot is generated. If there is a flat spot, you can increase the graph
slightly to add more fuel during the acceleration faze. Once the TPS is larger
than the Idle Cut Off TPS value or
the Fuel Cut-off RPM value, the
fueling will go back to the MAP sensor.

6.8.3.5 Accelerator Pump

The
accelerator pump setting is used to richen the fuel mixture when accelerating
to avoid flat spots or bog. Here you can select not to use it, use either the
TPS or MAP or both.

The
Accelerator pump settings are done for Both the MAP and TPS sensors.

Enrichment % - Use the slider
to richen the fuel by a given percentage when accelerating. A standard is 40 or
50%.

Sensitivity - Set this slider
from 1 to 10, starting at 10 for the least sensitive, until you are comfortable
with the response you get out of your acceleration. If the setting is too
sensitive (1), then your car will jerk and over fuel with the slightest
movement of the throttle. Tune this setting from a flat spot side till it’s
gone. Otherwise you may over fuel without knowing it. A standard is 2 to 4.

Max RPM – This is the
maximum RPM that the pump settings will be active. At high RPM you do not need
an accelerator pump. A standard is 1500 to 2000 RPM.

6.8.4
Sensor Setup  (Alt 4)

6.8.4.1
Active Sensors

Select
the different sensors that are to be used for your engine. If a sensor is not
to be used, leave the block unchecked. Also make sure the cable for it is
properly isolated as there is power on the leads that could short circuit,
damaging the ECU as a result. Some of the sensors cannot be altered or will be
forced on by the firmware.

The
TPS sensor needs to be calibrated. This is important for idling control, fuel
prime and flood control.

To
calibrate the TPS, click on the Calibrate
button. Click the Reset button. Press
the fuel pedal in completely and press F1.
Release the pedal completely and press F1
again. Click the OK button. Then
click on the Write to ECU

button.
When you switch the ECU off and on again, the TPS bar should indicate 0% when
pedal is released and 100% when pedal is pressed. Remember that idle control
will only take place when the TPS is less than the value set in the Fuel cutoff
TPS block.

The
water and air temperature sensors can be calibrated by giving at a percentage
offset. Normal is 100%. If the sensor reads 15% too low at normal operating
temperature, a value of 115% may be entered in the block. Then the sensor value
will be multiplied by 115% lifting the value to the desired display value.
These sensors are not very accurate but are consistent. Then the graph value
rather than the real-time value is used for tuning and GP limits.

The
MAP sensor can be calibrated to accommodate all the different types and to
expand the working range to make full use of the tuning maps. To calibrate the
sensor, first set the Map Sensor Value
under Engine Configuration. If you
have a turbo with a 2.5 Bar. map sensor and you are only going to boost 0.8
Bar, set the scale to 2 Bar and calibrate the map sensor for it. Then you can
make full use of the tuning load sites. Then click on the Write to ECU

button.
When you close the ECU software and open again, the vacuum range should be set
on the graph on the fuel maps page. Now calibrate the sensor according to the
height above sea level to accommodate the pressure of your location. If you are
at sea level, calibrate it at 1.0 Bar. Gauteng Region is around 0.85 Bar. If
you increase the calibration value the measured map sensor value will decrease.
When you have the desired value, press Write
to ECU

to
save it. The Filter block will
average the current reading with the previous reading. This will create a
dampening effect for throttle bodies where the map signal is erratic. Do not
use it if it is not necessary. It will make a flat spot which must then be
tuned out with accelerator pump.

The
Trigger and TDC inputs can be selected on or off. You always require at least
the Trigger on. Then you can click on the arrow next to it to select leading
edge (arrow up) or trailing edge (arrow down). Most triggers are trailing edge
but triggers like the optics of Nissan and a few others are leading edge. On
magnetic pickups this setting is useful if the positive and negative is swopped
around. Then you can click the arrow and the ECU will swop it with software.
Note however that if you load a new map, this setting must be changed
afterwards. Some programs will force these sittings on a certain pattern and
even if you change it, it will keep changing back when you restart the program.

6.8.4.2 Pot Input

The
Pot Input can be used for one of the following. Battery input or use as a
launce control. For a normal car, set it to battery so that battery voltage
compensation can be adjusted. If any other function is selected, a fixed
battery voltage of 12.7 volt is forced into the ECU. For racing cars you can
use the launce control function. See Launch Control on how to use the
launce buttons.

6.8.4.3
Idle Control

Before
adjusting the idle control you must select which type of valve is on the
engine. Remember if it is a stepper control (4 to 6 wire), then you require the
external electronic driver. Also remember to set the relevant GP outputs to Idle Control.

Idle
control can be used for two-wire and non spring loaded three-wire valves. Other
idle valves with stepper motors will use these settings but with external
electronics. Stepper motors will not use the Low Limit and High Limit settings
as they keep their position when there is no signal present. For two-wire idle
valve GP output 2 must be set to Idle
Control and for three wire valves both GP Outputs must be set to Idle Control.

RPM – this setting is
the preferred target RPM’s when the engine is on running temperature. When it
is cold the ECU will automatically increase engine RPM’s with up to 300 RPM’s.
This is calculated according to fuel enrichment on the water compensation map.

Start % – this setting is
used to increase the air intake when the engine is started hot or cold. The ECU
will open the idle valve with this % and when the engine is cold, the ECU will
increase this setting automatically according to the water temp compensation
graph.

Response Time Up – this setting
will determine the rate at which the valve opens when the actual RPM’s fall
below the set point in Idle RPM. The
further the RPM fall below the set point, the faster the ECU will open the
valve to let in more air. The less the value, the faster the response time will
be. This setting must prevent the engine from stalling when you switch the
aircon on or put it in drive.

Response Time Down – this setting
will determine the rate at which the valve closes when the actual RPM’s go
above the set point in Idle RPM. The
further the RPM goes above the set point, the faster the ECU will close the
valve to decrease airflow into the engine. This setting is normally more than
the response up to eliminate hunting. The less the value, the faster the
response time will be. This setting must bring over RPM down as fast as
possible without hinting the engine.

Low Limit – this setting
will preload the spring in the valve so that the valve starts to open
immediately when the ECU starts increasing the value. It can also be used to
set minimum idling RPM for throttle valve that closes completely. To set it
start with a larger % and decrease until the desired idling RPM is reached.
When you adjusted the value just accelerate a little so that the ECU can bring
the value from the top.

High Limit – this setting is
used to limit the maximum idle RPM’s. No need to open the valve more than
necessary. It also allow for the use of large valves in smaller engines. Just
make sure that when the engine is cold it can lift the RPM up to approx. 1500
RPM. This can be tested by entering a large Idle
RPM value and see to where the ECU can increase the RPM. You need to lower
the RPM first when you changed the value.

Type Selection – this setting is
used to select which type of idle control valve is on the engine because the
software is different for the two main types.

6.8.4.4 Lambda Configuration

This
block is used to set control parameters for the ECU to use the lambda signal to
adjust fuel enrichment while driving. Note that lambda sensor correction will
only operate when the engine temperature is above 60°C.

The
target volts are the set point for
the ECU to achieve during fuel correction. This limit is different for the
different types of fuel and vehicles. For normal pump gas the target voltage
should be around 0.45V (14.7 air/fuel ratio) and for methanol and alcohol
between 0.75V and 0.85V.

Startup Delay – This setting will
let the ECU give the lambda sensor time to heat up till it is ready for use in
fuel correction.

Control percentage – This setting
will give the ECU the ability to enrich or lean the fuel amount by this %. This
value will be implemented gradually over 0.2 milli-volt movement away from the
set point. It can be adjusted from 0 to 10% max. A value of 5% is standard.
Always tune the ECU first without the help of the lambda sensor and then
activate it afterwards. This will get the best out of the lambda sensor.

Number of Samples – This setting is
the number of samples from the lambda sensor that the ECU will average out. Then
it will use this average to make adjustments in the fuel enrichment. A typical
a value of 100 for a 4 cylinder and 200 for an 8 cylinder is used. This setting
is to create a damping effect to the ECU do not hunt with this value. When set
correctly the lambda signal should not hunt more than 0.3 volt while driving.

Lambda Low Limit – This setting is
to set the lowest vacuum setting that the ECU is allowed to adjust the fuel. A
standard here is 0.25 for normal aspirated engines. When the vacuum falls below
a certain value, the mixture has to be richer than 14.7 then the ECU are not
allowed to adjust the fuel. This setting will be indicated as a red bar on the
vacuum map.

Lambda High Limit – This setting is
to set the highest vacuum setting that the ECU is allowed to adjust the fuel. A
standard here is 0.75 for normal aspirated engines. When the vacuum goes above
a certain value at wide open throttle position, the mixture has to be richer
than 14.7 then the ECU are not allowed to adjust the fuel. This setting will be
indicated as a green bar on the vacuum map. This means that lambda loop control
is only allowed between the low and high limit settings.

The
Lambda bar indicates from 0 volt to 1 volt from left to right. This bar is used
to tuning the ECU for correct fuel levels under all conditions. The right green
side is richer than 14.7 A/F ratio while the left Red side is the lower than
14.7 A/F ratio.

6.8.5 Turbo Setup (Alt 4)

6.8.5.1 Launch Control

The
launce control is activated by a push button on the dashboard to activate and a
button on the clutch pedal if automatic latch up operation is required. Once
the RPM’s go over 4000 then these 3 parameters will take effect. The new rev
limiter will cut the fuel and spark. The timing will be retarded and the fuel
mixture will be enriched. The moment the clutch is released, everything will go
back to normal again.

6.8.5.2 Micro Fueling
Injector

The
TITAN
ECU has the feature to use double injectors on each cylinder. It will use only a
primary injector at low manifold vacuum and when the manifold pressure goes
high, it will add a secondary injector to increase fuel admission to the engine.
This will allow the engine to be tuned more optimized on low and high loads. It
will calculate the difference in injector time interval to compensate for the
extra fuel that will be added by the secondary injector. This method should
make the transmission as smooth as possible.

The
Compensation % field is calculated
by the primary injector cc divided by the total injector cc multiply by 100.

Example:
Injector 1 = 100cc, Injector 2 = 200cc.

Compensation
= Primary Injector x 100
=   100cc x 100      =   33%

Primary + Secondary
Injectors       100cc + 200cc

The Compensation field must be set to 0% if
this feature is not used in order to free the GP outputs to other tasks.

If you are not sure on the injector sizes,
first tune the engine with only the primary injectors. Choose a certain RPM and
load on manifold pressure and set the Vacuum
Limit field higher so that the secondary injectors stay off. Now start with
50% value in the Compensation %
field. Reduce the Vacuum Limit so
that the secondary injectors start operating. Adjust the Compensation % so that the same air fuel ratio is reached. You may
need to reduce the vacuum with the throttle to stop the injectors, while
changing the Compensation %.

The
Vacuum Limit field is at which
manifold pressure the transition must take place. This is normally when
injector percentage goes over 65% opening.

The
Activation block will activate the
different Hardware Circuits to power the
extra injectors. If it is on Driver
then separate drivers on the ECU will be used and wired to the separate
injectors. If it is on GP 1 or 2, it
will switch the power to the Injectors via a separate Mosfet Driver. In this
manner the drivers is joined with the primary drivers. Setting GP 1 or 2, will take control of that GP
output above the normal setting in the setup. See the Wiring diagrams for
wiring info.

6.8.5.3 Boost Limiter

The
TITAN
ECU has the feature to limit the fuel and spark when the boost goes higher than
this value. This is very useful to protect the engine against boost control
failure. It is also a soft limiter which will only lose power over the limit
value. It can be adjusted in tenths of a bar resolution. The ECU will first
retard the timing in three stages and then after 300 RPM over this limit will
cut the fuel completely. The spark however will not be cut. This will prevent
fuel from entering the exhaust and backfire there.

6.8.6 Real-time Data and Bars

This
block displays the current analogue data as it is measured by the ECU for while
the engine is off or running. These values are used to set and tune the ECU
correctly for all conditions.

Double
click on the gauges to change their appearance between digital and analog.

6.8.6.1 RPM Gauge

RPM
- This is the current engine revolutions. Double click will toggle between the
two options.

6.8.6.2 Time Gauge

TIMING
- This is the calculated timing of all the timing maps and will be the same as
seen on the timing light. Double click will toggle between the two options.

6.8.6.3 Vacuum Gauge

VACUUM
- This is the vacuum value from the MAP sensor. It is measured from Absolute
vacuum to atmosphere and also boost pressure for Turbo engines. Double click
will toggle between the two options.

6.8.6.4 Lambda Gauge

LAMBDA
- This is the Lambda value read from the Oxygen sensor. It is measured in volts
from 0 to 1Volt.  Where 0 Volt is lean,
0.45 Volt is Stoichometric or 14.7 air-fuel ratio and 1 Volt is rich. Double click
will toggle between the two options.

6.8.6.5 Water Air & Battery
Indicator Bar

These
3 bars will indicate water and air temperatures and also the battery voltage as
it is supplied to the ECU.

6.8.6.6 Injector Time and %
Indicator Bar

This
ms bar indicates the time in milliseconds that the injectors are opened. For a
4-stroke engine this is measured over 2 revolutions and for a 2-stroke engine
it is measured over 1 revolution.

The
% bar indicates how long the injector is open in relation to the time of 1
revolution. If it indicates 100% it means the injector is open for the whole
revolution and that is the maximum fuel that can go into the engine. A supplier
recommendation is not more than 85%. This will indicate that the injectors are
too small.

6.8.6.7 TPS & POT Indicator
Bar

The
TPS% bar indicates the throttle position at that stage. If it is calibrated, it
will indicate from 0 to 100 % between closed and open throttle.

The
POT% bar indicates the optional input signal voltage. No calibration here.

6.9 Maps
(F3)

6.9.1 Timing Maps (Alt 1)

6.9.2 Fuel Maps (Alt 2)

6.9.3 Lambda Maps (Alt 3)

6.9.4 Correction Maps (Alt 4)

6.9.5 Data Logger (F4)

6.9.6 Manual (F5)

Click
on the Maps tab to get information on the tuning maps of your engine. Startup
Maps are being preset before the ECU has been shipped. These maps may require
to be adjusted to suit your engine. Some maps for tuned engines are also
supplied and may only require minor adjustments.

Click
on of these icons to adjust different settings in the setup page. Activate the Hot-Key
by pressing the Alt button plus the correlating number as in the icon block.

6.9.1 Timing Maps (Alt 1)

6.9.1.1 Dynamic Timing Map

This
Timing map is the wide open throttle map. Here you set the maximum timing of
the engine trough the whole RPM range. If the engine ping or detonate, see at
which RPM’s it happens and bring the graph 3 to 4 degrees down at that RPM
range.

The
dynamic timing curve can be adjusted every 100 RPM’s in steps of 1° between 0
and 45°. Move the cursor over the graph with your mouse. From there on you can
set the map with your cursor keys. Use the left and right cursor to change RPM
bar at 100RPM intervals and up and down cursor keys to adjust the timing at 1
degree intervals. The green bar is where your cursor is and where you can
change the values. The Blue bar is where your engines current RPM’s are.

You
can click on the mouse button and adjust with a mouse by simply dragging the
graph. You may switch the real-time tracking on so that the green adjustment
bar will follow the blue active bar. Then you will adjust the value where the
RPM’s is at the time.

Notice
the graph below 400 RPM’s is set to the cranking timing. Then the next step is
for idling. The split for vacuum timing is the blue arrow at 1500 RPM. When the
RPM is below this limit the low vacuum timing graph is active and above this
value the high vacuum timing graph will be active.

This setting is adjusted in
the timing set-up.

6.9.1.2 Vacuum Timing Map

On
this map you can set the amount of ignition advance and retard for a specific
vacuum or boost pressure value. There are 2 maps with 32 divisions for the map
sensor which can be adjusted from -15° to +20° in 1° intervals.

Select

and move the cursor over the graph with your
mouse. From there on you can set the map with your cursor keys. Use the left
and right cursor to change vacuum intervals and up and down cursor keys to
adjust the timing at 1 degree intervals. The green bar is where your cursor is
and where you can change the values. The Pink bar is where your engines current
vacuum is.

You
can click on the mouse button and adjust with a mouse by simply dragging the
graph. You may switch the real-time tracking on so that the green adjustment
bar will follow the blue active bar. Then you will adjust the value where the
RPM’s is at the time.

The
degrees you set here will be added or subtracted to the dynamic timing map.
Note the -3° from 0.85 to 1 bar. This will compensate for sea level and inland timing.

6.9.2
Fuel Maps (Alt 2)

6.9.2.1 Main Jet Setting

The base line fuel is calculated by the ECU and not mapped in a
look-up table like matrix systems. Calculations alone cannot compensate for all
deviations in and engine. The ECU uses correction graphs to compensate for all
kinds of deviations. The Main Jet adjusts global fuel supply to the injectors
much like the main jet in a carburetor would. This is a constant dependant on
fuel pressure and injector size. If all the maps are zero, you can use this
setting to adjust the base line fueling for the ECU. A standard to use is normal
load on the freeway at normal cruising speed for instance 120Km/h. Your total
vacuum range can be divided into two and use this setting if you are on a Dino.
Drag the slider up or down to increase or decrease fuel till the desired
air/fuel mixture is obtained. Normally around 14.7 or 0.45Volt on the lambda
slide bar. Now stop, put the car in park and adjust the Idle jet till it idles
smoothly and the desired air/fuel mixture is obtained. Now memorize the digital
value above the slider and always go back to that value if you use the slider
for tuning. If you change this value, all the other settings will change
accordingly. That is why it is the first to adjust.

If
starting for the first time you may adjust the slider slowly up while cranking,
until the car starts. As the engine warm up to normal temperature, lower the
slider to keep the engine running smoothly. Start with an idle setting of 70.

To
adjust this slider you can click on the slider button with the mouse and use
the up and down arrow to adjust one increment at a time. The page up and page
down can be used to adjust 10 increments up or down. Alternatively you can use
the hot keys Q and A for 1 increment adjustments and W and S for 10 increments
at a time.

6.9.2.2 Idle Jet Setting

The
Idle jet setting adjusts global idling fuel supply to the injectors much like
the idle jet in a carburetor would. Calculations at idle uses a part of the
main jet setting, and gradually fade away as the vacuum signal decreases under
load. It is important to set the main jet first then the idle jet. Start from a
lean mix and increasing till hunting fades. Use the Lambda slide bar for
accurate setting. Remember that idling mix are normally richer than cruising
mix. You can adjust the slider to achieve the maximum vacuum when the engine is
at normal running conditions.

To
adjust this slider you can click on the slider button with the mouse and use
the up and down arrow to adjust one increment at a time. The page up and page
down can be used to adjust 10 increments up or down. Alternatively you can use
the hot keys D and C for one increment adjustments and F and V for 10
increments at a time.

6.9.2.3 Vacuum Fuel Map

This
is the main vacuum correction map. Use this map to adjust enrichment deviations
for the specific engine. Also use this map on the left side to adjust idle
mixtures for an automatic gearbox when selecting drive.

The
vacuum bar will move slightly to the right and then the graph can be increased
to get the right mixtures at this vacuum. The green bar is where your cursor is
and where you can change the values. Pink bar is where your engines current
vacuum is.

The
3 Blue arrows indicate the low, middle and high vacuum settings which select
between the 4 different RPM maps underneath. These limits are adjustable on the
Fuel Setup page.

When
the Pink vacuum bar moves between these zones, a different graph is selected on
the Fuel RPM Map below.

You
can click on the mouse button and adjust with a mouse by simply dragging the
graph. You may switch the real-time tracking on so that the green adjustment
bar will follow the blue active bar. Then you will adjust the value where the
RPM’s is at the time.

6.9.2.4 RPM Fuel Map

This
graph is used to adjust enrichment in different vacuum zones. It is divided in
four groups on the top graph with the Blue arrows. Select the Low, Cruise, High
Cruise or High setting and adjust the fuel enrichment over the rpm range for
the specific graph.

Use
the Low map for slow town driving and idling deviations. This will be a fuel
saver map in urban conditions.

Use
the Cruise map for normal deviation in fair load values on the engine. This map
is used for setting the fuel for open roads.

Use
the High Cruise map for normal deviation in higher load values on the engine.
This map is used for setting the fuel for acceleration and uphill roads.

Use
the High map for full throttle condition (WOT). This map is to get the maximum
power from the engine. It is normally set in the richer side on the Lambda
slide bar. The engine should not run lean through the RPM range.

Blue
bar is the engines current RPM and the Green bar is where your cursor is and
where you can change the values.

You
can click on the mouse button and adjust with a mouse by simply dragging the
graph. You may switch the real-time tracking on so that the green adjustment
bar will follow the blue active bar. Then you will adjust the value where the
RPM’s is at the time. The different zones will also change with real time. This
will ease with tuning through the whole range.

6.9.3 Lambda Maps (Alt 3)

These
two graphs will manipulate the target voltage with a certain percentage. This
feature requires a 4 Wire Lambda sensor with element. It will not manipulate
the fuel if the water temperature is below 60°C or if the startup delay time is
not over.

6.9.4 Correction Maps (Alt 4)

6.9.4.1 Temperature Correction
map

This
map is to set the water temperature correction mostly for cold starting. The
colder the engine is, the richer the mixture should be. Try and start your
engine on a cold morning. Set the correction factor in the positive region of
the map, by increasing fuel until the car starts. As the engine temperature
increase, keep reducing the mix until it idles smoothly. Always adjust the
setting on the right of the yellow bar. The hotter the engine becomes the less
the factor will become, so your percentage at 70 degrees will be around 0% while
at 20 it could be as high as 50%. A tip is to kick the accelerator in. If there
is a flat spot, the mix is too lean. Always adjust the minimum mix to just
eliminate the flat spot effect.

The
yellow bar indicates actual water temperature of engine

6.9.4.2 Air Temperature
Correction map

This
map is used to set the air temperature compensation for Fuel and Timing. On
very hot or cold days when the mix should be leaned out or richen a bit. The
timing may also have to retard on hot days. The colder the air temperature is,
the richer the mixture must be and the faster the timing. Run your engine from
cold early in the morning. Set the correction factor in the positive region of
the map, by increasing fuel until the engine idles smoothly. Use the lambda sensor
to ensure that mixtures stay constant. When the conditions outside get very hot
the engine may start to detonate or ping. Then this graph can be retarded to
compensate for the faster ignition process. It is not easy to adjust this map
so a Dyno and temperature controlled conditions may be required. Not all
vehicles use this map and the sensor may have to be installed. The orange bar
indicates the temperature as measured on the sensor. The Green bar is where the
cursor is for adjustments. To select between timing and fuel check the select
box on top of the graph first to ensure that the correct graph is adjusted.
Blue is for timing and Green is for fuel compensation.

6.9.4.3 Voltage Correction map

This
map is used to set battery voltage compensation to enrich the fuel mix as
battery voltage decreases during cranking. The lower your alternator and/or
battery voltage is, the less fuel gets injected into your engine, causing it to
run lean. Increase the percentage to compensate for a lean condition. A high
voltage will require the least amount of fuel.

In
most instances it’s not necessary to adjust these values if wiring is done
according to specifications. Note that this value is read from the ECU supply
and not the injector supply where the volts are critical.

6.9.5 Data Logger (F4)

The
data logger is a valuable tool in diagnostics to tune your ECU and engine and
identify problems easily and quickly. It helps to record data while driving and
view them afterwards, then use your time to do adjustments in the maps.

First
select the appropriate signal you would like to record by checking the box next
to it.

Check
the Interval block to decide the resolution of the samples.

For
quick real-time logging you can log the data on the map by pressing the

buttons. The data will be recorded and saved
in the PC RAM. See the graph below. After logging you can grab the log sheet
with the right mouse button and go to different times in the graph to see what
happened and do alterations on the graphs.

Alternately
you can record the data to a file by pressing the

button. Select a filename which the data must
be saved in.

Once
a recording file is active or a Log file is opened, this bar will be displayed
on all the map pages. You can now replay the data and see how the lambda value
was recorded for different conditions on the engine. When a file is played
back, the ECU will be

.
Once you finish your changes you can connect and press

to save the changes in the ECU.

When
a recording file is selected, you can press the record button

when ready and record the relevant signals to
a Log file. When finished press the stop button

.
Now you can move forward or backwards

and move the bar

by dragging it with the mouse or arrows and
play the data from that position by pressing the play button

.
The real time data will then be replaced with the data in the recorded Log
file. Now you can go to the different maps and see how the signal values
changed while you were driving. By looking at the Log data you can do
adjustments on the Maps and save it. Then you can do another test run and see
if the engine performed correctly on the lambda value.

The Log file can be opened and replayed at a
later stage by pressing the

button.
This feature will also allow the file to be mailed to the tuner for remote
fault finding.

To do adjustments
remotely first load in the engine map and then open the file. Play it back and
do adjustment. Then save the Map file by pressing save from PC.

6.9.6
Manual (F5)

When
you use the manual for the first time the program will prompt about the
location and filename of the help file. The help file normally comes in PDF
format for standalone use and HTML format (ECU User Manual Ver2.2.1.0.mht) to
work in the tuning software. Click on Browse and guide the explorer to the .mht
file. Click OK and the file will load. This program will store this file
location in the ecu.ini file so that the next time you don’t need to repeat the
process.

If
you want to load n newer version of the manual, delete the old manual file
first or delete the ecu.ini file and copy the new one to the hard disk. Close the
program and reopen it. Repeat the above process.

7.
Other Setup duties and Information

7.1 Jump Starting the Engine

This is always a
bad condition to put any electronics through. The reason is that battery
voltage is too low for the electronics to work properly and very large current
and voltage spikes are induced on the system. It may cause the ECU to erratic
behavior and to switch outputs on at the wrong time. It may also “hang” the micro causing outputs to stay
on and damage coils or driver outputs.

If you must jump
start follow these rules and you should be save from damaging equipment:

Never jumpstart a car without a healthy battery
intact. This will cause erratic voltages over 40 volts which will damage
most electronics and light bulbs.

Make sure that terminals are properly
connected and will not come loose.

First leave the engine off. Connect the cables
and leave them on for a couple of minutes to let the good battery charge
the flat one.

Start the master car. End let it idle at 1500
RPM’s for at least 2 minutes. This will give the alternator a change to
bring both batteries up to 13.8V and put some charge in the flat battery.
If you don’t have thick jumper cables increase this time to 5 minutes.

Now start the other engine. If it does not
crank easily, charge a little longer. If you engine does not start, give
ample time between cranking cycles to let the flat battery recover every
time.

8. Startup Procedure

8.1 Engine and system
preparation.

Before you connect
the ECU do the following:

1.
Install new spark plugs on engines that were
stored a long time.

2.
Service and test the injectors to ensure they
all have the same fuel delivery and that the filters on them are clean.

3.
First ensure that the installation is correct
according to the Hardware Installation procedure.

4.
Test the electrical wiring a multi meter according
to the Excel Test Procedure file provided on the CD.

5.
Power up the fuel pump by loosening the fuel
pump positive from the relay circuit and connecting it to 12V battery positive.
Check the fuel pressure is around 3.5Bar and check for fuel leaks. Reconnect to
the relay.

8.2 Connecting the ECU for the
first time

Now you can
proceed with the following steps. If any steps do not correlate with the ECU
operation, stop and look for the faults. Ensure that the ECU is earthed!!!

1.    Remove the coil and injector fuses.

2.    Ensure that the Jumper Settings are correct inside the ECU.

3.    Connect only the 12 way connector leaving the 10 way connector open.
Switch the Ignition on. Do not start the engine. The yellow LED on the ECU must
come on. Also the green LED on the Idle control board must come on if one is installed.
If the yellow LED does not come on switch off immediately as there may be a
short on the 5Volt output that will damage the ECU.

4.    Ensure that the pins 1,4,6,7,8 &9 are broken out of the communications connector if you are not using a
Spitronics USB Converter cable.

5.    Now switch the Ignition off and connect the Laptop to the unit. Switch
it on again. Start the PC software and connect to the ECU. The engine data like
the water temp sensor should be displayed. It should read more or less correctly
for the cold engine.

6.    Go through the setup page and ensure all the settings are correct for the engine. Especially
the Trigger Level Output. This setting may damage the ECU or coils if set incorrectly!!!

7.    Ensure that timing triggers from the distributor or crank are set up correctly. Also the Trigger
Levels, leading or trailing.

8.    Check Rotor Fazing it you have a distributor system. This will make Laptop interference is
set incorrectly.

9.    Calibrate the TPS and Map sensors and save the calibration as described
under active
sensors.

10. If you changed the RPM range or the Map sensor value, save the data to the
ECU, close the PC software and start it again. Then the new values for the
graphs will be loaded to the correct scaling.

11. You may now crank the engine without the 10 way connector. Check that
the Green LED flashes. Also look at the RPM signal on the timing map. It should
show 200 to 300 rpm constant. If it shows erratic and run wild, do not try to
start. First find the fault. It must be constant.

12. The vacuum should be reading the atmospheric pressure of your region.
Check the Internet for the correct pressure on you altitude.

13. Save the data if it has been
changed.

14. Switch the ignition off and connect the 10 way connector.

15. Remove all the fuses. Switch the ignition on. The relays will come on
for three seconds the fall out again. If not check the relay wire according to
the drawing.

16. Switch the ignition off and insert the fuel pump fuse. Start with 5A. If
it blows check the wiring and try 7.5A as some pumps draw more power than
others. Do not go to larger amp fuses as there may be short somewhere.

17. Switch the ignition on, the fuel pump must start for three seconds and
switch off.

18. Switch the ignition off and insert the coil fuses of 5A. If it blows
check the wiring.

19. Now crank the engine with a timing light and check if the spark timing
is in the 10°BTDC region. If not check the Timing Chapter for the correct setup. Do not attempt to start if the timing is not
right or erratic. You may need to loosen the plug wire a bit to make a small
gap so that the timing light picks up the pulse of the spark plug. For coils
that are bolted onto the plug try using the trigger wire from the ECU. If this
does not work, take a separate wire and wound it three times around the
inductive pickup of the timing light and then insert this wire between the
trigger wire and the coil. This will amplify the signal three times so that it
will trigger the timing light. Set the timing light to zero timing as wasted spark
systems read double the degrees.

20. Switch the ignition off and insert the injector fuses of 5A. If it blows
check the wiring.

21. Crank the engine. It should start. If the engine backfires or misses
stop and do some checks. See the Faultfinding chapter to guide as to what the symptoms may be.

22. The vacuum bar should move to the left of the map while cranking at
closed throttle. If your setup is correct it should start and idle smoothly.

23. Make sure the RPM is constant before revving the engine. If it jumps
more than 300 rpm intervals, recheck the trigger polarity. It must be steady.

24. Look at the exhaust. If there is black smoke, it is very rich. Try
leaning it out on the water temp graph by lowering the dot on the right side of
the yellow bar.

25. During the heating up faze, blip the accelerator from time to time. If
the engine has a flat spot it may be lean and need some more fuel. Adjust the
main jet till the flat spot reduces.

26. The green LED in the Idle control should go off once the target RPM is
reached. If it flashes then the ECU is trying to control the idling but nothing
happens. It means the fault is to the idle motor side. Maybe a wiring fault or
sticky motor or valve. It may also be a blocked airway or the throttle opening
is too large. Remember for every 19% of enrichment on the water correction
graph, the ECU will raise the set RPM’s by 100.

27. As the engine heats up, the water sensor value must increase. Adjust the
mix on the water graph or by lowering the main jet slider till the engine is at
normal temperature.

28. The water graph should now be around 85°C with no fuel enrichment. If it
is not, you can calibrate the sensor on the setup page. The engine should rev
up smoothly. If it has a flat spot it requires more fuel. Increase the main jet
slightly till the flat spot is about gone. Also check that the timing is not
the result of the flat spot. Check with the timing light that the timing
increase as the software indicates.

29. Let the engine idle and adjust the idle jet till it idles smoothly.
Always try to make the mixture as lean as possible because it is difficult to
feel when it is too rich.

30. Save the data to the ECU. The car may stutter and die. Restart again and
proceed with tuning.

9. Tuning

9.1 Tuning Basics

Tuning is basically getting the two main
ingredients of fuel amount and spark timing correct. The instruments used for
this is a timing light and the lambda sensor wired into the ECU. The reason why
no Dyno is required is because you can tune the ECU with the help provided and
the tools available. If you do not have a lambda sensor on the engine you need
to put a lambda tuning instrument in the exhausted.  You also need a good timing light. Rather
mark the degrees on the engine pulley as some timing lights are not very
accurate and cannot measure wasted spark coils accurately. However if you are
not familiar with the terms and have a Turbo or racing engine, it is
recommended to make use of one of our agents who has a dyno and can tune your
engine properly.

9.2 Fuel Settings before
Starting the Engine

The ECU has n few
sequences how to start the engine. An engine requires an initial prime pulse of
fuel to start the moment the engine is cranked, then a richer mixture during
cranking. Once it started, it also requires a certain amount of richer mixture
than idling to get it going till normal idle settings can take over. For cold
starting all these settings must be increased at a certain %. This is done
automatically by the ECU by using the water temperature compensation Map.
Adjust the following settings before starting and again when the engine is at
normal operating temperature.

1.
9.2.1 Start Prime Pulse

This setting will open the injectors for 20
milliseconds right after the first crank pulse occur. It is a once off pulse
and will only happen once after the ECU is powered up. If your ignition key is
broken and you can turn the starter again without switching off, this pulse
will be absent and the engine may turn a couple of times to start. When the
engine starts look at the exhaust. If there is black smoke it is too much
petrol. Try decreasing this value till the engine struggles to start. Then
increase it slightly. If this pulse is too large, it may flood the engine.

2.
9.2.2 Throttle Priming is a function to
manually inject fuel into the engine on very cold days. The TPS must be
connected for this feature. If you press the throttle more than 25%, the ECU will
prime the injectors by half the value set in the Start Prime Pulse block. It
will start the fuel pump for 1 second to get the fuel pressure up again. This
function may be repeated if more starting fuel is required.

3.
9.2.3 Flood Control is a function that
clears a flooded engine. It is activated when the accelerator is pressed more
than 80% during cranking. The ECU will cut the injectors and no fuel will be
injected into the engine. The spark and clean air will eventually dry and
ignite the remaining fuel and clear the plugs. When the throttle is released
the ECU resumes normal fueling.

4.
9.2.4 Cranking Fuel is calculated
using the Map sensor signal. As you crank, the Map signal will creep to the
left, increasing manifold vacuum, which requires less fuel. If you press the
throttle the vacuum will stay right causing the ECU to continue with the large
fuel mixture.

5.
9.2.5 Start %

If you have idle control, do not press the
throttle as the idle control will ensure enough air at starting. This value
determines how much air the ECU must add to the starting enrichment. If you
don’t have idle control it helps to open the throttle slightly for starting. Do
not rev the cold engine as oil pressure is still low. Rather let it heat up
gradually. For cold starting you may need to keep the engine running with the
throttle as it requires more air.

6.
9.2.6 Start Enrichment

This setting will enrich the idle fuel by
adding 0.5 milliseconds to the injector time. This value will decrease with RPM
counts, and should fade in about 8 seconds at idling to zero milliseconds. If
you rev the engine after starting, it would be zero in 2 seconds. Try starting
with a zero value. Do not press the throttle. If the engine dies after
starting, increase this value till it keeps running.

The engine is
designed for a certain torque and power curve. Inadequate mixtures and timing
will only reduce performance. Timing is the easiest parameter to get in the
right region, as you can use timing marks on the pulley and quality timing
light. Also follow the guidelines for the specific type of pickup to get it
more or less in the firing zone. If you are not sure try to go for a retarded
time position. This will make the least damage and not break the starter.

To start the
engine the first time, use the main jet slider. Start with a low value and
increase it until the engine start. If it starts adjust the main jet so that it
can idle. Always go for the leanest position (bottom) on the slider not to over
fuel the engine. Verify the computer timing with the timing light to ensure
that your spark setup is correct. Now you can concentrate on the fuel again. Let
the engine heat to normal temperatures. First cancel all the compensation
fields to zero and use the main jet slider. Use the lambda sensor as an
indicator to see if you are more or less correct with the fuel. Now follow the guidelines
below.

9.3 Tuning with a Dyno

Make sure all
safety precautions are met as specified by the Dyno Safety rules from the
manufacturer. Also remember to keep an eye on the water temperature of the
engine. If at any time you hear Knock or pinging, back off the throttle immediately
and lower the RPM timing in that RPM range about 3 degrees. If at any time the
RPM bar becomes erratic, back off the throttle and do faultfinding for
interference or faulty trigger signal.

9.3.1 Reset Maps

Ensure that the
engine is at working temperature and all the sensors are calibrated. Disable
Lambda Control until after the tuning is done.

Setup - Sensors

Calibrate the
software timing with the timing light to ensure that ECU timing is the same as
engine timing.

Zero the vacuum
timing map as well as water and air correction maps. This will be tuned later.

Maps – Timing –
Vacuum Map

Set a basic RPM
timing map to start at 8°BTDC degrees and idle at 15 to 17°BTDC degrees.
Increase the timing from 1000RPM to 3500RPM up to 32°BTDC. Keep it flat till
maximum timing.

Maps – Timing –
Timing Map

Zero all the
vacuum and RPM fuel maps.

Maps – Fueling –
Vacuum Map

Maps – Fueling –
RPM Map

9.3.2 Main Jet Setting

Now start the
engine and set the Dyno RPM at the middle of the engine max RPM, in this case
3200 RPM for a 6500RPM engine. See the graphs above.

Take the engine
load up to half scale by pressing the accelerator pedal. In this case, 0.5 Bar
for a normal aspirated engine. If you hear detonation or pinging go to the RPM
timing map and retard the timing by about 3 degrees.

Set main jet
slider till the lambda reaches 0,45Volt which is Stoich or lambda 1. This will
ensure that the graphs are evenly spaced over the zero line. You can press the
Q & A keys for 1 increment or the W & S keys for 10 increments.

Remember this
main jet value so that you always end with this value during tuning. The main
jet slider is used during tuning to see if you are close to the right air-fuel
mixture.

Let the engine
idle and adjust the idle jet till the engine run at just higher than Stoich or
0.45Volt. if you decrease the idle jet by 3 increments the engine should go
lean and start to labor. Use the D & C keys for 1 increments or the F &
V keys for 10 increments.

9.3.3 Setting the Fuel Vacuum
Map

Put the Dyno on
3200RPM and adjust the vacuum fuel map through the whole load range, by
pressing the accelerator pedal to achieve the vacuum value. You should end up
with a graph that looks like this. Remember that the air-fuel ratio will vary
according to the load on the engine. Light loads have a leaner mixture than
high loads. If you hear detonation or pinging during this faze go to the RPM
timing map and retard the timing by about 3 degrees.

Maps – Fueling –
Vacuum Map

9.3.4 Setting the Fuel RPM High
Map

Now press the
accelerator pedal in completely. The vacuum should move to the right and stand
on a value that will vary according to the height above sea level. At sea level
it should be around one bar pressure.

Maps – Fueling –
Vacuum Map

Now by adjusting
the Dyno RPM’s plot out the RPM fuel map. Again use the right air-fuel mix
required for the different RPM’s. Normally on this map you should be on the
rich side. If you hear detonation or pinging go to the RPM timing map and
retard the timing by about 3 degrees. You should en with a map like this.

Maps – Fueling –
RPM Map

9.3.5 Setting the Timing RPM
Map

Now go to the
timing map and adjust the WOT timing on the top graph. Press the accelerator in
completely. Now that the fueling is more or less correct you will see a
variation of timing required for the different RPM’s. Adjust for maximum power
but no detonation or pinging. If you hear detonation or pinging you can retard
the timing by about 3 degrees around the tuning bar.

Maps – Timing –
Timing Map

9.3.6 Reset the Fuel RPM High
Map

Now that the WOT
timing is more accurate, redo the RPM High fuel map. If you hear detonation
again, redo the timing map again. The fuel and timing goes hand in hand and as
the power reaches optimum, the timing tends to go down. Once you are happy that
detonation is intact and optimum power is reached, you can proceed to economy
tuning.

Maps – Fueling –
RPM Map

9.3.7 Setting the Vacuum Timing
High Map

Set the vacuum
split between idling and running to determine the field for the two vacuum
timing graphs. This is normally at 1500RPM where the engine becomes in a stable
running state.

Set a basic High
RPM vacuum map of 8°BTDC max as in the picture. Now put the Dyno on 3200RPM
again and adjust the load through the whole range. Each time adjust the high
vacuum to see where the maximum power is without detonation. Leave the Low RPM
for later.

Maps – Timing –
Vacuum Map

9.3.8 Setting the Fuel RPM Low,
Cruise & High Cruise Map

Go to fuel maps
and set the other three rpm correction graphs. First determine RPM graph splits
at top vacuum map.

Put real-time
function on. At RPM intervals of 500 to 1000 RPM, adjust each map where the
load is in the center of the map range or two limits of that map. Remember that
the air-fuel ratio increase as the load increase. For the low map use the
center of idling vacuum and the limit. As the load increase the graph
adjustment will shift automatically so that you only have to adjust the arrows
up or down. You should end up with a graph that look like this.

Maps – Fueling –
RPM Map

Connect the dots
on each map together. Your main fueling for driving is now set up. The
following steps concern idling and starting.

Maps – Fueling –
RPM Map

9.3.9 Setting the Idle Jet for
Time & Fuel

First adjust the
Idle Jet so that the engine has just enough fuel to idle constant. Do not make
it too rich. It should be 3 counts higher than the avalanche point where the
engine wants to stutter. Set the Low RPM vacuum timing on the graph at zero
degrees up to 1 or 2 dots to the right of the idling bar.

Maps – Timing –
Vacuum Map

Also make sure
that the Fuel Map Vacuum correction is on a flat graph during idling as with
timing. If the engine hunts it is most probably a lean mixture at the Idle Jet.

Maps – Fueling –
Vacuum Map

If it is an
automatic car put it in drive and do the following two adjustments. Then if it
has an air conditioner, switch it on and repeat the steps while in drive. A
Manual car only requires one step.

Now see where
the vacuum bar stabilize and adjust a step in the graph to add about 4 degrees
of timing.

Maps – Timing –
Vacuum Map

Adjust the dots
on the Fuel vacuum graph to achieve a air fuel ratio the same as for no load
idling. These setting will let the engine idle stronger when more power is used
for automatic transmissions and  air
conditioners or power steerings.

Maps – Fueling –
Vacuum Map

9.3.10 Setting the Vacuum
Timing Low Map

Now you can add
more timing on the Vacuum Timing map as the green graph. Note that with more load
during acceleration the timing is increased to around 10 degrees. This will
give more power for a better pull-off. And at WOT we also give a bit more
timing op to 1500RPM’s to get the engine going faster. Again too much timing
here will cause detonation which must then be decrease by three degrees.

Maps – Timing –
Vacuum Map

9.3.11 Setting the Air
Temperature Correction Map

Not all engines
have air temperature sensors mounted on them. Most sensors were incorporated in
the MAS meter. However it can be installed and utilized effectively. It is
however difficult to tune as you need controlled environment to do so
effectively. Cold air is denser and requires more fuel. You may be required to do adjustment tuning in the winter and then in
the summer. The air temperature sensor is situated just before the throttle
body (if installed). Remember to enable it on the active sensors page. When the
engine is used in the winter, you may advance the timing slightly as the fuel
burn at a slower rate. It may even require a richer mixture for these
conditions. In the hot summer the engine may tend to detonate as a hot mixture
burns more rapidly and the air is thinner. Then you may require to retard the
timing slightly and lean out the air-fuel ratio. Remember if you tuned in the
winter or summer your graph may tend to slope just on one side.

Maps – Sensors –
Air Temp Correction Map

9.3.12 Setting the Voltage
Correction Map

Battery voltage has an influence on the opening and
closing time of the injectors. This will make a deviation in the fuel quantity
especially at high RPM’s. It is a difficult parameter
to adjust because the moment the engine runs the battery voltage is held
constant by the alternator. During cold starting as well as winter starting,
the battery volts will drop considerable. It may be necessary to add fuel to
compensate at this voltage for the injectors that open at a slower rate. Then
at higher voltages you may reduce the voltage for the same reason. This
condition is very difficult to measure with a lambda sensor as starting
mixtures are very erratic. You may disconnect the alternator so that the
voltage drops to only battery voltage. Then adjust the graph so that fuel
mixture is running in the same mix as with the alternator charging. Never disconnect
the battery with the alternator running!

Maps – Sensors –
Voltage Correction Map

9.3.13 Setting the Water
Temperature Correction Map

Water
temperature correction can only be done in the morning when the engine is at
its coldest. To set this graph, start with the example below. Now start the
engine and let it idle. The idle control should increase the idling by two or
three hundred RPM’s. Now push the accelerator pedal in quickly to about 50% TPS
and release it again. Decrease the graph till the engine gets a flat spot and
then increase the graph slightly. Wait till the temperature goes past the next
dot and then repeat the action till the whole graph is plotted.

Maps – Sensors –
Water Temp Correction Map

9.3.14 Setting Lambda Loop
Control

Once the ECU is
tuned properly in open loop mode, you may activate the lambda closed loop
control. In this function the ECU will look at the lambda sensor constantly and
make corrections for air-fuel ratio whenever the engine is running too rich or
too lean. This is a very useful sensor as it will compensate automatically for
atmospheric pressure and hot or cold air conditions. Adjusting the graphs will
add or subtract the % correction from the lambda target volts. This means that
although ideal mix is set at 0.45 Volts, under higher load the target volts can
be set at example 0.63 Volt. Ensure that the lambda sensor is a good quality
sensor, preferably four-wire, and that it is operating correctly. Remember the
loop control will only become active if the engine is above 60°C and the start
delay time has elapsed.

·
The
lambda target volts are set at 0.45 Volt which is an air-fuel ration of 14.7 or
lambda 1.

·
The
start delay time is set at 30 seconds to give the sensor time to heat up and
operate correctly. This may differ between sensors.

·
The
control percentage can be adjusted between 0 and 10%. If the ECU was tune
properly you may give it 5% control. If the sensor fails it may change the
air-fuel ratio to dangerous levels so check it regularly and go for the least
amount of control.

·
The
number of sample per revolution is used to smooth out fluctuation in control.
Too little will have the ECU control at erratic ratios.

·
The
Lambda low and high limits is to stop loop control outside these perimeters.
For high power engines and high compression pistons it is best to disable the
control at higher loads. This is to protect it should the sensor fail. Also at
idling you may require the engine to fuel at fixed settings. Especially if TPS
idling is used.

Start with the
middle RPM’s at 3200 and then adjust the top Vacuum graph at different loads
with the throttle. Keep in mind what the air-fuel ratio should be for the
different loads. Adjust the graph till you achieve the correct mixture.

Now keep the
load in the middle of the graph and adjust the bottom RPM map at different
RPM’s to achieve the correct mixture.

The ECU will now
control on different air-fuel ratio’s to let the engine run from rich to lean.

Rich

Stoich

Lean

9.4 Tuning without a Dyno

Spitronics
startup maps are not far from the real maps required by the ECU. Note however
that fuel pressure and injector size play an important role in where the main
jet and idle jet must be set. This you may require to set according to your
lambda sensor. If you don’t have a lambda sensor and timing light, you need to
take your vehicle to one of our agents for setting it up properly. Flat spots
or black smoke is an indication that adjustment is required.

9.4.1 Preparation

Ensure that the
engine is at working temperature and all the sensors are calibrated. Disable
Lambda Control (Chapter 9.3.1) until after the tuning is done. Make sure the
ECU

9.4.2 Timing Calibration
Setting

Start the engine
and let it idle. Calibrate the software timing with the timing light to ensure
that ECU timing is the same as engine timing. See Timing
Setup earlier in the manual. Do not adjust the timing maps for this.

9.4.3 Main Jet Setting

Now you need to
get a setting for the main jet to get a baseline fuel setting under normal load
conditions. Firstly set the main jet to a value where you can drive with the
vehicle. Go on the open road and cruise at around 120 km/h. Try to get a flat
road where you can have a constant supply of fuel to the engine. Also aim to
have the Map sensor value in the middle of the graph on the vacuum map. If the
engine works hard like for an elevated 4x4, you may not reach 120km/h under
half load.

Maps – Fueling –
Vacuum Map

Maps – Fueling –
RPM Map

Set main jet
slider till the lambda reaches 0,45Volt which is Stoich or lambda 1. This will
ensure that the graphs are evenly spaced over the zero line. You can press the
Q & A keys for 1 increment or the W & S keys for 10 increments.

Now stop and
punt the gearbox in neutral. Let the engine idle and adjust the idle jet till
the engine run at just higher than Stoich or 0.45Volt. If you decrease the idle
jet by 3 increments the engine should go lean and start to labor. Use the D
& C keys for 1 increment or the F & V keys for 10 increments.

9.4.4 Other Adjustments

Start at Chapter
9.3.9 at idle adjustment and work through till the end of Chapter 9.3. The ECU
comes with the Lambda maps disabled and they are quite useful for tuning the
ECU with real-time feedback.

9.5 Accelerator Pump Setting

Because fuel
mixture is calculated, and idle to running is a unique program developed, the
ECU will automatically cater for fueling required during acceleration. Thus you
most probably will not require extra fuel. Another reason for this is that the
ECU uses an external MAP sensor which is situated close to the engine. The
vacuum signal is therefore direct and fast. Vacuum is calculated before every
injection cycle. Any changes in vacuum are immediately catered for in the next
injector pulse. If you go to the vacuum map and press the throttle quickly, you
should not be able to see the bar move to the right. If it is sluggish you will
have a flat spot. This is normally the result of too long or too thin vacuum
line or too small port at the manifold. Setting these values too large will
only waste fuel and gain nothing. So the norm is to only tune till the flat
spot is gone.

1.
Select TPS or MAP. Setting both comes later
with more experience.

2.
Set the Max RPM. Normally 1500 to 2000 RPM’s.

3.
Select a percentage enrichment starting with
10% increments. Normally 40 to 50%.

4.
Select sensitivity by starting with 10 (least
sensitive) and work towards 1 (most sensitive). Normally 2 to 4.

5.
Kick the accelerator pedal in and release.
Listen and feel for the flat spot. Sometimes it sounds like a flat spot but it
is actually the noise of the vacuum being eliminated at the throttle. Rather
look at the RPM’s and feel for a jerk pulling off.

6.
Increase the sensitivity towards 1 and repeat
point 5 till you are satisfied. You may also increase the enrichment till the
desired results are achieved.

7.
Always look at the exhaust for black smoke
indicating too much fuel. You can also use the air/fuel (lambda) gauge to
indicate correctness.

9.6 Fuel Cut-Off Setting

Here is something
the carburetors did not have. On the ECU you can cut the fuel supply to the
engine completely when decelerating or with downhill driving. This makes for a
bit of fuel saving especially in urban driving. This is done with 2 settings. Both
conditions have to be met to activate the fuel cut feature.

1.

The vacuum signal must be lower than this
value to activate the feature. Use a value just smaller than neutral idle
vacuum at working temperature.

2.

The RPM’s must be higher than this value. Start
with a value around 500 RPM higher than idling RPM.

3.
There is a dead band implemented in the
calculations to prevent hunting. Try to find the best setting which brings the
fuel back the moment that the engine goes from negative to positive force on
the drive train. This will prevent jerking when the engine comes to life.

9.7 Cold Start Setting

First finish the
normal tuning of the engine. The main jet setting will affect this setting as
well. For cold starting and running the engine requires a richer fuel mixture
and extra air flow. On certain engines it may require as much as 50% enrichment
on a cold day. Otherwise it will not have enough power to run.

1.
Let the engine cool down overnight. Go to the
correction maps. The bar for water temperature should indicate the outside
temperature. If it is out of calibration it is not critical. Normally it is
calibrated to be accurate around working temperature. As long as the sensor
follows a constant graph you can still effectively set up cold starting.

2.
Start the engine and decrease the dot on the
right hand side of the temperature bar. If you hear the engine loose RPM or the
vacuum signal increase (move to the right), raise the dot with 3%. Wait till
the temperature increase and pass over to the following dot. Do the same here.
Keep on till the engine is on normal operating temperature. At around 60°C the
correction map should be zero if the calibration is correct.

3.
A test to see if the mix is correct, is by
pressing the accelerator pedal in not too fast, to see if the engine has a flat
spot. If so increase the dot slightly.

4.
Remember you may see black smoke but it is
normal for a cold engine as it requires a lot of fuel to run.

5.
If the engine has idle control, the ECU will
raise the idle set point with 100RPM’s for every 19% of fuel enrichment. This
means that you don’t have to add extra air to raise cold RPM’s.

6.
If the engine does not have idle control, you
can open a solenoid air valve to the intake by using one of the GP outputs.
This way the engine will idle a bit faster till it reaches a certain
temperature and switch the valve off.

7.
The ECU will also lengthen the prime pulse
during starting by the same % that the bar is set at.

10.
Fault Finding

10.1 Faults and Remedies

10.1.1 The ECU yellow LED does
not come on

1.
The ignition wire does not have 12Volt

2.
There is a short on the 5 Volt output from
the ECU. The magnetic crank or distributor sensor, TPS and MAP sensor use 5
volt. Check the wiring.

10.1.2 The Software does not connect
to the ECU with the USB to RS232 Converter

Pin 1,4,6,7,8 & 9 must be broken out to
operate. See RS232
Computer
to ECU interface

The Baud rate must be set to 19200 in the
Device Manager.

No Driver for this Device installed – The USB
converter must have a driver CD which has to be installed first.

Too high Comp Port allocation for the driver.
See  Changing the USB Comport in Windows Device Manager

Faulty USB converter.

10.1.3 The engine does not
start for the first time

Go through the Startup Procedure to ensure ECU operation is correct.

If you crank the engine and it does not want
to start, disconnect the high tension leads at the plugs one by one and
see if there is spark on the plugs. If not:

a.
Check if the green LED on the ECU flash while
cranking. If not check the crank or distributor signals. Gaps of magnetic
pickups may be too large.

b.
Check if the fuel and Coil relays pull in at
ignition on. If not check that the numbers on the relays are correctly wired.

c.
Test if the coils have positive supply +12
Volt when cranking the engine.

d.
Test the coil resistance from the 10 way
connecter to see if open circuit.

e.
Test the coil to see if faulty.

f.
If distributor type check the spark at the
coil HT pole.

If there is spark, take out one of the spark
plugs. If it is dry it means there is no fuel. Check for:

a.
Ensure the fuel pump is running during
cranking.

b.
Test the fuel pressure by loosening a bolt on
the fuel rail somewhere. Hold a rag over the joint to prevent spillage. Keep a
fire extinguisher close by.

c.
Ensure that the injectors was checked and
serviced if the engine stood for a long time.

d.
Put your fingers on the injectors and feel if
they pulse during cranking.

e.
If not, check the software for milliseconds
injector time. It should be more than about 5% during cranking.

f.
If it shows zero milliseconds, check the map
calibration, TPS calibration, fuel cut off function settings.

If the plugs are wet it means there is fuel.
Check the following:

a.
It may be that the start fueling was too much
and the plugs were flooded. Dry them and try again. You can also push the
throttle in completely and crank the engine till it tries to start or the plugs
become dry.

b.
It may be that ignition timing is setup
incorrectly. Then firing occurs at the wrong time and failing to ignite the
fuel mix. Check again the timing setup for the specific engine.

c.
The plugs may be old or dead. Replace.

If the engine tends to stop cranking suddenly,
check the following:

a.
It may be that the timing is too fast. Reduce
by 10 degrees. Add more teeth if a crank gear are used.

b.
If there is a magnetic crank or distributor
sensor, check that positive and negatives are not switched around.

c.
If more than one coil is used, check for
incorrect wiring or firing order.

10.1.4 Engine Backfires during
Cranking

The engine backfires through the intake.

a.
Faulty ignition timing or firing order. Check
again the timing setup for the specific engine.

b.
If there is a magnetic crank or distributor
sensor, check that positive and negatives are not switched around.

c.
If more than one coil is used, check for
incorrect wiring or firing order.

d.
Check if the RPM bar jumps erratic in the PC
software. If it does, the gap of the magnetic sensors may be too large or the
signal is too weak.

The engine backfires through the exhaust.

a.
Too lean fuel mixture. Increase by 10 on a
time on the main jet.

b.
Water temperature sensor or compensation map
incorrect.

c.
Some of the plugs may be old or dead.
Replace.

10.1.5 Engine start but it
stalls directly afterwards

Check the map sensor in the fuel map field is
operating. The red bar should be on the right hand of the Graph. If it is
on the left side, it may need calibrating or it may be faulty or a wire
fault.

The fuel mixture may be too lean. Try to
enrich using the main jet slider.

The temperature sensor may be faulty causing
the cold engine to give a warm signal to the ECU. Thus leaning the mixture
out.

Incorrect Fuel Cutoff
settings. A symptom will be that the milliseconds bar on the real time
block will jump to 0.

10.1.6 Engine start but is very
rich

Check the map sensor in the fuel map field is
operating. The red bar should move to the left of the screen. If it is
standing on the right it is faulty or wiring fault.

The main jet or idle jet slider is too high.
Try lowering them to the values it came with. Main 138 and Idle 70.

Check if the water temp sensor is working. If
not it will keep on enriching the mix as if for a cold engine.

Some of the plugs may be dead, and then the
engine looses manifold vacuum resulting in enriching the other pistons.

Fuel maps set to too high values. Lower the
values.

Fuel pressure regulator regulates too high.
Measure the pressure. It should be between 2.5 and 3.5 bar.

10.1.7 RPM signal very erratic.

Incorrect magnetic trigger polarity.

Interference on pickup.

10.1.8 Engine start but do not
rev up

Check the map sensor in the fuel map field is
operating and calibrated. The red bar should move to the right if the
throttle is pressed.

Too lean mixture. Try increasing the main jet
value.

Incorrect rotor fazing or timing. Check with a
timing light.

Incorrect magnetic trigger polarity.

Check the micro fueling and boost limiter
blocks and see if the settings there are correct. A symptom will be that
the milliseconds bar on the real time block will jump to 0.

10.1.9 Idle Control does not
work

Check first if it is wires correctly as
indicated on the drawing. If it is an idle valve, make sure the diode is
intact. If it is a stepper controller, make sure the sequence is wired
correctly. It may close instead of opening.

Faulty TPS setting. Make sure the TPS is
calibrated correctly. It must go from 0 to 100% over the full range.

Check the idle control settings according to
the explanation.

Make sure that the throttle idle position is
set correctly. The idle valve can only close as much as this setting.

Check if the idle valve or stepper motor is
not stuck. The idle valve can be pulsed with 12Volt to see if it opens and
the stepper normally vibrates when the ignition is switched on. It may
still be stuck even if it vibrates. So take the stepper off and see if it
opens.

If the green LED on the stepper idle
controller is on during idle, it means that the idle computer does not
receive the RPM pulse from the ECU. Recheck the wiring. The green wire
must be connected to GP out 2 except for the Lexus computer where it is
connected to the RPM output.

If the green LED on the idle controller flash
it means that the idle computer tries to adjust the RPM but nothing
happens. The idle motor itself is sticky or wired incorrectly. Open it up
and clean and lubricate. With the long shipment on ships it corrodes on
the inside. The wiring to the idle motor may be incorrect. The airway of
the idle motor is blocked.

The USB converter or RS232 serial cable may
interfere with the RPM output signal. Break out pin 1,6 & 8. See ECU interface.

10.1.10 Auto Gearbox does not
shift

Check to ensure correct wiring connection to
the ECU.

The USB converter may interfere with the RPM
output signal. Break out pin 1, 6 & 8. See ECU interface.

10.1.11 Spark plugs does not
last

Too rich fuel mixture.

Wrong temperature plugs

10.1.12 Flat Spot when
accelerating

Other vacuum line tied into the Map sensor
line.

Restricted vacuum line.

Too long vacuum line.

Too small port for Map sensor on intake
manifold.

Incorrect setting of fuel maps.

10.1.13 Engine does not want to
rev up

The Fuel Cut-Off settings are wrong.

The magnetic crank or distributor sensor’s
negative and positive wires are changed around. The gap may be too large.

Rev limiter is set too low

Incorrect setting of fuel maps.

Fuel pressure or flow rate to low. Dirty fuel
filter.

Faulty fuel pump.

10.1.14 Engine lack power, idle
erratic, or runs lean

The fuel pressure is erratic. This may be due
to the pump sucking air on the in feed which causes cavitations and loss
of pressure. This happens more frequent when the engine is hot.

Injector positive is wired incorrectly. It
does not have its own supply direct from the battery via relay 1.

Incorrect setting of fuel maps.

Fuel pressure or flow rate to low. Dirty fuel
filter.

Faulty fuel pump.

10.1.15 ECU cuts during driving
– Interference

Interference or
feedback is caused by the following reasons:

Earth wires incorrect. Tie the black wires of
the harness to the ECU enclosure. Tie a 2.5mm or thicker wire from the ECU
enclosure to the body as an earth strap if it is not screwed directly onto
the body.

Screened cables of the sensors must be
connected close to the sensors to ensure maximum screening.

No screen wire must be connected to the
engine. Only to the TPS, Map sensor Temperature sensors and lambda sensor
if specified by the drawing. Don’t common it with engine ground.

Faulty High Tension sparkplug wires.

HT lead run too close to sensitive input
wires.

The Ignition Positive wire is used for high
current devices that generate voltage spikes. Couple all coils etc via
relay circuits from the fuse box supplied.

Poor voltage supply to the ECU.

Large relays do not have decoupling diodes and
induce spikes on the ignition wire. Install free running diode supplied
according to drawings.

Incorrect alternator wiring. The main charge
wire (thick positive) should be connected at the battery positive terminal
rather than the vehicle harness. The battery acts as the smoothing
capacitor.

Battery earth straps are not adequate. Earth
straps should go from the battery negative to the body and also from the
battery negative to the engine.

Incorrect rotor fazing. The spark has to jump
a gap in the distributor inducing spikes on the pickup device.

11.
Specifications

These
specifications are for the advance ECU combinations. This means that not all
may be applicable to the standard and intermediate ECU. See the Introduction different models
for variation.

11.1.1 Inputs

2x Magnetic inputs
or 2x Hall or Optic inputs or combination of the 2 Groups

1x Map sensor
input 0 – 5V

1x Water
Temperature Input – 2K NTC Resistance Sensor

1x Air Temperature
Input – 10K NTC Resistance Sensor

1x Lambda Input 0
– 1 V

1x General Input –
Selectable for Pot Input, Launch Button or Battery Voltage Correction

Software RS232
Connection

Programmer
Connection

11.1.2 Outputs

6x 7A current
Outputs to Ground (coil + injector drivers)

1x Fuel Relay
Output 2A to Ground

1x RPM Output 2A
to Ground

2x General Purpose
Outputs 2A to Ground

5V Output for TPS
& Map Sensor and Magnetic Pickups

11.1.3 Crank & Cam Angle
Sensors

The ECU can sense
any crank or cam sensors. Popular types are 60-2, 36-1, 36-2, Nissan Optic,
Toyota 24+TDC, Rotary, Spitronics Optic and lot more. These are program
specific, and are combined with the type of ECU firmware loaded by the Agent.
Some sensors may not be incorporated in programs before but can be done on
request. A fee may be charged for customized software by the Hour. Note that
Magnetic and Hall or Optic sensors have different input connection and thus
different harnesses. No difference in the software is necessary.

11.1.4 Load Sites

Dynamic Timing Map
– 100 RPM divisions – 1° intervals 0 to 45°BTDC

Vacuum Timing Map
– 32 intervals through Map Sensor Range – 1° intervals -15 to +15°

Fuel Vacuum Map –
64 intervals through Map Sensor Range – 1% intervals -50% to +50% Correction

Fuel RPM Map – 3
Maps – 32 intervals through RPM Range – 1% intervals -50% to +50% Correction

Water Temperature
Correction Map – 24 intervals 0 to 120°C – 1% intervals -60% to +60% Correction

Air Temperature
Fuel Correction Map – 24 intervals -20 to 100°C – 1% intervals -50% to +50%
Correction

Air Temperature
Timing Correction Map – 24 intervals -20 to 100°C – 1° intervals -50° to +50°
Correction

Battery Voltage
Correction Map – 16 intervals 8 to 16V – 1% intervals -50% to +50% Correction

12.Firmware Programmer

The firmware
programmer allows the agents or users to change the Firmware program in the TITAN
ECU for different engines. This is also used for upgrading to the latest
version of the manufacturers firmware. The programmer is bought optional and
not a requirement. It is very useful if the agent is far from the manufacturer.
The firmware software is free as it is developed. Read the Precautions below to
prevent damage.

12.1 NB! Precautions

·
Note however that you may not program
firmware into an EMU or ECU or TCU if it was not written for that specific
electronic hardware. The setup of the micro processors is different and you may
connect inputs to outputs that will damage the processor or the electronics. E1
Firmware is for EMU and E2 Firmware is for TITAN ECU.

·
A Type 3 or Standard ECU can only take T3
firmware programs. If you load T11 or T15 in, the Yellow LED will flash twice
when you switch it on and will not allow you to save the data maps.

·
A Type 11 or Intermediate ECU can take T11
and T3 firmware programs. If you load T15 in, the Yellow LED will flash twice
when you switch it on and will not allow you to save the data maps.

·
A Type 15 or Advance ECU can take T15, T11
and T3 firmware programs. This will allow the user any combination as this ECU
is the top of the range.

·
Never press the

button
in the Programmer Software. This will erase the ECU ID Code and then it will
not work.  The Yellow LED will flash
three times when you switch it on and hang the processor. This ECU will have to
be reprogrammed by the manufacturer.

·
Always disconnect the 10 Way output harness
from the ECU. When the programmer is connected all the outputs are switch to
the high state which means that coils and injectors will be switched on. This
may damage the coil drivers or coils and fill the engine with fuel.

·
Follow the Startup
Procedure to make sure that the right firmware and
settings is loaded to prevent damage.

12.2 Installation

On the CD in the
Firmware Programmer File run the
setup file mcu_ide.exe to install the software program. If you do not have the
programmer software you may download the latest version from the internet at
the following link:

http://www.silabs.com/Support%20Documents/Software/mcu_ide.exe

Follow the
onscreen instructions till you are asked for the following. Click on Custom and
uncheck Examples and Utilities.

You will not need
these and they will only take up unnecessary disk space. No harm if you install
the complete programmer. Connect the USB programmer to the PC only and start
the program at the start button, activate Silicone Laboratories and click on
Silicone Laboratories IDE.

Now click on
Options, Connect Options and select USB Debug Adapter and also C2 interface.
Click OK and you are all set to use the Programmer.

12.3 Operation

To program the TITAN
ECU first connect the Programmer to the ECU Com Port. Connect only the 12 Way
connector and earth the ECU. Switch the ignition on. Click on the

button
to connect.

The download

button
will become active, click on it.

Now use the Browse
button to select the correct HEX file on the hard disk or CD. Do not at any
stage press the Erase all code space button.

Select the Files
of Type to be Intel Hex (*.hex) then go to Look
in: to search for the correct file.

Click Open
when it is selected.

Click Download
to program the ECU.

Click the disconnect

button
when it is finished and switch the ignition off. Disconnect the programmer and
connect the USB to RS232 Converter cable. Do not connect the 10 Way cable
before you run through the startup procedure. This will ensure that load the
right firmware and not to damage the ECU.